The Enviro-Dri Weather Barrier is much better than a plastic wrap. It's puzzling that the walls would only have R15 fiberglass which seems like an exaggeration to begin with. Why not dense pack cellulose? Simonton makes several different models/grades of PVC windows and I would assume the worse without a real spec. The Andersen is a builder grade wood/PVC composite window that only offers between-the-glass mullions so they would not be the best choice for a traditional house design. They appear to be Andersen's Renewal replacement windows dressed up for new construction and re-branded.

I would be looking for a builder that offered options for these basic building elements rather than a take it or leave it list.

This post was edited by Renovator8 on Fri, Nov 14, 14 at 7:14

That is not a spec sheet as much as those are features. A spec sheet should be much more detailed and "looks" don't tell you an awful lot about the builder. Chevy, Chrysler and Ford all build cars a little different as well.

Revovator8 - I don't know much about insulation, but it seems like R-15 is the latest/greatest High Density that fits in a 2x4 wall. I found this:

http://insulation.owenscorning.com/homeowners/renovation/products/r-15-fiberglas-insulation/

I would think that in Zone 5 you would want more than R-15 in the walls.

For Climate Zone 5 the IECC and the IRC require a stud wall to have an R-value of 20 or an R of 13 plus a layer of continuous exterior R-5 foam board. Perhaps Builder #2 has used the performance alternative method to comply but I don't see how that would be practical if it is even possible.

If the feature list of Builder #2 includes a layer of foam board that would be the better choice as long as the window and door openings are properly flashed (especially at the sills).

This post was edited by Renovator8 on Sat, Nov 15, 14 at 6:15

A stud wall will lose about 25% of its R rating due to heat loss through the studs, so R-15 is pretty poor indeed. I would go 2X6 with cellulose AND external foam, both to boost R-value, and minimize the thermal transfer through the studs. I'd go more than R-38 in the attic, too.

In Zone 5, you might want to look into ICF. As for the cabinets, look at your local cabinet builders. IMO, it makes no sense in paying for a brand name for boxes. They can be custom made and cost allot less.

MushCreek makes an important point to consider. Adding at least 1" of rigid foam board to the outside of the wall sheathing and the roof sheathing stops thermal transfer through the studs and rafters in direct contact with the sheathing. Taping the joints stops air leaks. Taped house wrap does the same thing.

Good luck with your project