It sounds like your keypad has reverted to an earlier technology. A new keypad with the same model number should be the answer to your problem.

Thank you don 1 for your response. That's the first time I ever heard of a keypad reverting to an earlier technology; why would that happen, especially if they all worked in the past? And, why is it either or (the remotes or the keypad)?

Also, when you say a new keypad with same model number, what same model number do you mean?; the remote # or the keypad #? And why would the keypad need to be replaced instead of the remotes? They all work - just not together.

Thanks!

Hey Helper - did you find anything else out? I just bought at Craftsman Wireless Keyless Entry and get the keypad to work ... OR .... the Remotes to work --- but, guess what? Not together. Either the Keypad works, or the remotes (both of them). I found this and will try it tonite:

1. With the door closed press a new four digit password desired and hold ENTER.
2. Press and hold the light button on the door control (lower left corner). Keep holding while you do step 3.
3. Press and hold the door control button (main button that opens door).
4. After the opener light flashes, release all buttons.
5. Test your new code by entering the new numbers and the pressing ENTER.

helper the manufacturer explains it like this: "The opener will accept both technologies but not at the same time. You cannot mix and match technologies." If one of your units has reverted to an earlier technology then you are trying to mix technologies.

So, will buying new remotes for the garage door opener be the answer?

Yea helper - i'm not too confident about it - but I will try the new code too - I did see that and noted it. I'm sure this incompatibility is the answer. I bought the garage door opener in 97 - so the remotes are 10+ years old. I'd like to know if it's ALL old remotes that won't work in conjunction with the keyless entry - if so I wish they'd just say so, figure out how back the problem goes, and document it. And, will ordering new remotes for the same Garage Door opener do the trick? Or, are they just sending out the same remotes stocked from way back - in that case we'd have the same problem. And, my '03 Ford Explorer programmable built in remote also doesn't work with the keyless thing working. That obviously isn't the same thing as the old remote. Anyway - if ordering new remotes does the trick then I'll just do that. Can't see how getting a new keyless entry would - I just bought that last week and was the only model that was "compatible" with the Door Opener model # I had.

Hi jpsqwe; it does look like something "new" will have to be purchased. It seems like quite a racket. Why would everything work properly together, and then, all of a sudden, for no reason only one or the other will work (and even sometimes, for some people, nothing works). I just don't get it!

I still would like to know what I have to buy. You're probably right that it is the remotes. This whole thing is soooooo annoying. Thanks.

Well, I had time today so... I looked into this a little more again. I ended up calling Liftmaster and they told me (as also did don 1 - thank you) that my keyless entry pad probably reverted back to old technology versus the rolling code technology, and that it would probably have to be replaced. When I asked why this would happen, they told me they weren't sure, but that it could possibly have something to do with weather (seems odd to me????).

Also, they told me if the new keypad did not work, it probably was the logic board. So I guess I'll see. Anyway, with all the modern technology we have today, this all didn't make much sense to me, especially because no one had tampered around with it at all; it just decided not to work one day. Baffled??? Thanks.

Well, I'm back again. I bought a new keyless entry pad and did exactly what I was supposed to do, and guess what?. . .it DID NOT work. I am so discouraged.

Now, what does this mean? Should I buy new remotes or is there something wrong with the logic board? Any help from anyone would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Hey helper - I figured that if the keyless entry can't handle new and old technology then it's the remotes that have this old technology? Why did you buy a new keyless entry - was it the thinking that the "logic" board had broken in the time you bought it until it didn't work? I'm hoping that it's the remotes that are the "old technology" - however not really sure if the remotes that you would order now for a 10 year old garage door opener would be new ones with new technology - or just the ones from the old garage door opener sitting on a shelf for 10 years - and you'd just be getting the same thing.

I haven't tried the convoluded procedure yet - as my confidence level is very low, nor have I ordered a new remote yet (kind of the same reason).

Now the stupid keyless entry just sits there unused - as you kind of have to have the car remotes work more than the keyless entry.

Hi jpsqwe - I bought a new keyless entry pad because in one of the entries, don 1 said that it sounded like the entry pad reverted back to an earlier technology, and that by getting a new entry pad with the same model # should be the answer (thanks don 1 for trying to help-really; any other suggestions I'd be happy to try). And, when I called Sears, they said the same thing (stating that they were 95% sure that that was what it was). They said if it wasn't the entry pad, it was the logic board on the actual garage door opener unit.

I still am at a lose, and am not sure what to do. Any help again would be appreciated. Maybe I didn't do something right when I tried the NEW entry pad, but I don't think so... but who knows. If someone out there would give me the steps again, I'll give it another go, but I think I've tried everything. Thanks.

I'm still a little confused on the recommendation to get a new keypad. If something happened to the one you had - then why wouldn't the same thing happen to the new one. Unless it was just bad luck with a piece of bad physical hardware. If there was something wrong with the keypad then why would the keypad still work (when the remotes don't)? Anyway - it doesn't seem like there is any solution, so I guess we keep searching. I'm tenative to order and new remote and just waste money and hope. Looks to me like we have a lemon, meaning not being able to find a keypad that works with the remotes.

Hi jpsqwe - I am still quite unclear as to why the entry pad would need to be replaced versus the remotes since they all work good, but, once again, just not together. I somewhat understand about what don 1 said regarding mix and matching technologies.

I think my next step will be to buy new remotes too. I'll let you know what happens. If you have a Sears near you, they probably have what you'll be looking for, and if it doesn't work out, just return it. Thanks

I have a craftsman 132B2171-2 garadooropener keypad and lost the original code to reprogram it / pu a new code in - Sears
only scrtched their head and I do nor want to buy a new one -

Anyone knows ? TKS

Hello...question I bought a house a year ago and have a Sears/Craftsman garage door opener. The remote stopped working. I have no model number for the remote but on the unit it is model # 41A3493-1 with FCC ID # HBW41A3063. How do I find a replacement remote?

The numbers you posted are not what you need. You should find a number on the motor unit that starts with 139. That will be the model number for the opener and from that you can find the right remote. Remember though the remote is a transmitter and there is a receiver in the opener. Either one could be your problem. Did you check the battery in the remote?

Thanks...I will look for that #. Yes I changed the battery. It will work rarely if you are standing right under the unit. The wall button it works fine. The remote is the 3 button remote and the wall button is a single button.

Well, well, well...my mystery is solved. It ended up being the remotes that needed to be replaced. What a whirlwind that was!!!

Thanks to don 1 2006 & jpsqwe for your help. Just a note to you all, if you go to Sears and return something you bought there that falls into a certain department (i.e., Home Appliances), they will charge a 15% restocking fee (it's printed on the back of the receipt). I learned that when I returned the keyless entry pad that I just tried once to see if it would solve my problem, but it didn't matter to them, I still got charged...Stinks, oh well. Good luck to you all solving your problems.

Hey helper 2007 - great news! I'll follow your lead and let you know! Thanks for being the guinea pig. How about that "re-stocking fee". What a load!

To Helper 2007 - you did it. I bought a new remote for my garage door opener hoping that it would still work once the new keyless entry pad worked. And, low and behold - everything works now together. So, dude - you are the man. Your diligence and research paid off. I'm glad I followed your lead! Darn $50 for a new new remote though! So, the 35 dollar keyless entry pad is really 85!!! Thanks again!

Hey jpsqwe-I'm glad everything works for you now. Thanks for the compliment; though, you gave me a good laugh because I know from my User Name you can't tell, but...I'm a dudette, so...I guess that makes me the woman (ha, ha). Anyway, let's hope all our remotes & keyless entry pads keep in sync with each other from now on. Take it easy.

I've never heard of Dudette but I love it! How chauvinistic, huh, assuming maleness. Just goes to show you! Thanks again. Maybe change your username to helper-ess 2007 ;)

I seem to have a similar problem to you guys. The only problem is I can't seem to reprogram the keyless entry anymore. If I buy a remote and that works I think I will still have a problem with my keyless pad. And not only that, but the homelink in my car works at times and then it doesn't. Could this be a problem with the range? I tried a combination of things and this problem seems to get worse. I would reprogram following instructions with premium console and then tried w/o since the other way didn't work anymore. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Now I can't even reprogram the keyless pad and when I reprogram the remote, it doesn't last very long. Help!

Sounds like you have a bad circuit board since you are having problems from various tranmitting devices.

jpsqwe and helper_2007:
Did you two buy your keypad and remotes for Sears? Did you have to do catalog? If not, where did you buy them?
Thanks for any help that you can provide? I have the same model that you have 139.53681B, and have similar problems.
Gibbie

Hey doorguy06, bad circuit board? Don't tell me I have to buy a new opener? What do you suggest?

gibbie, I really can't remember if the remotes and keypad were included with the opener. If not, these definately were bought at Sears.

Don't know the solution to our problem.

Hi Gibbie-I first made the mistake of buying the keyless entry pad first, thinking that was the problem, but, in actuality, it was the remotes. I bought everything at a local Sears near me. If you see from one of my earlier entries, if you return one of these items, Sears will charge you a re-stocking fee. So, if your problem seems very familar to mine, I would go with the remotes first. I hope it helps.

Hi All,

I had the same issue recently and here's what I found out (through a LOT of research) and the solution (yes, there is one!):

As described by many, when you can't get both the remote and the wireless pad to work together it means your garage door opener can accept both rolling code and billing code technology, BUT not at the same time. When you reset all codes (normally by pressing a button on the opener for a period of time e.g. 6 seconds or more), you erase all codes and remote "pairings". Then when you follow the manufacturer's procedure to pair again (which could be the wireless key pad first OR the remote first), the first pairing determines the technology for all subsequent pairings. Example: if your first pairing/programming was with the wireless keypad, and if it was rolling code technology (normally the case for newer models), then the garage opener will only recognize and accept rolling code for subsequent pairings. If your remote(s) are older (billion code technology) then the opener won't even recognize the signal (e.g. led won't blink when trying to pair/program).

And vice versa if you start with your remote after erasing all programming (then your keyless pad won't work).

But here is a potential workaround! For newer wireless keypads (e.g. clicker from chamberlain), you have an option to select the type of opener you are using as you do the initial password set up (normally indicated by a number e.g. 1 for models built after 1995, 2 for models built between 1997 and 2004, etc). Each choice is associated with a technology in the background (e.g. either rolling code or billion code). If you are programming your wireless keypad first after erasing all codes / programming, if you chose the "recommended" option for garage opener, chances are it will be rolling code and that means you won't be able to program your older remotes (billion code) after that. So how can you chose the option that will match your remote???

Here's what you do: start by pairing / programming your older remote first after erasing all codes / programs. That sets the technology (e.g. billion code). Then, go ahead and program your wireless keypad, but you may have to go through the process several times by trying the different options until you find one that works!

For me, I had to try 4 options before making it work. Options 1 through 3 (mind you, options #2 was the exact match for my garage door opener model but it would cause the problem discussed here e.g. wireless keypad would work but not the remotes) would not even be recognized by the opener in this procedure (LED would not blink), but it did work once I hit option 4.

I hope this will help you with your problem. Let me know if it's not clear. Cheers!

I am having trouble resetting the pin on my chamberlain keypad. I have followed the instructions that I found in a forum on here but got no results. I have lived in the house 3 years and never used the keypad,I found today that it had no battery in it. The keypad only has numbers 0-9 and no other buttons at all,it's wires go through the wall to a garage door button on the wall which is where the 9volt battery is located along with the "program" and "operate" button. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you so much Eddie!!! I had the same problem and I was going crazy and I tried 4 instead of two and it worked. I didn't need to change my remotes or keypad and I feel so happy that I finally got all of this to work. Thank you once again soooo much!

We have a keyless entry pad that seems to open randomly. Have changed the code but it didn't help. Any ideas???????

Thanks to duda800-deals_yahoo! Your advice was the answer to my garage door problem! To summarize, For a 1997 era Chamberlain garage door opener, the OLD wireless Keypad quit working.... I bought a NEW Key Pad, but the new Key Pad and the OLD car remotes would not both work together. (Programming the NEW Keypad made the car remotes not work, and visa versa). Duda800-deals nailed the problem and the solution: the 1997 era opener accepts both "rolling technology" (the NEW Key Pad) and the older "Billion Code" technology (the OLD car remotes) but will only accept one or the other, not both. So the solution was to program the old car remotes; then program the new KeyPad following the instructions for a "Billion Code" garage door opener (#4 on my instructions for a "green" learn button; while the opener actually has a "red" learn button).

Here are the instructions from April 15, 2009 (from duda800-deals_yahoo_com)

Here's what you do: start by pairing / programming your older remote
first after erasing all codes / programs. That sets the technology (e.g.
billion code). Then, go ahead and program your wireless keypad, but you
may have to go through the process several times by trying the
different options until you find one that works!

For me, I had to try 4 options before making it work. Options 1
through 3 (mind you, options #2 was the exact match for my garage door
opener model but it would cause the problem discussed here e.g. wireless
keypad would work but not the remotes) would not even be recognized by
the opener in this procedure (LED would not blink), but it did work once
I hit option 4.

Thanks again!

I have a different problem. An old Liftmaster system with two generic car remotes. I can open the garage door with either of the remotes when I approach the garage door. However, neither remote works when leaving the garage. Any suggestions?

Just a note about my issue with 20 yo garage door opener. Got new code box as old one buttons had to press really hard. Easy to connect to code box opener. Then later husband lets me know remotes no longer work. Re-connected remotes to transmitter. Then code box wouldn't work.

Read about the different technologies of remotes conflicting and bought new remotes, (even though garage door opener is still 20 yo), but spoke with Liftmaster, maker of garage door opener, before programming and having same thing happen.

Liftmaster told me it could have to do with age of remotes, and had already bought new ones per above. He said the new remotes would help as 20 yo ones have lived their life. Told ME TO ERASE memory from transmitter, (hold Learn button down for 6 seconds), first as it was probably jumbled up with the different attempts. Then reconnected new code box and each new remote. All work now.

Liftmaster also told me to not hold the Learn button down too long when programming remotes as I would erase whatever was connected already. I'm sure I did that at some point early on. Good to know.

What are these.4 options you refer.to?