Metro Wash,DC is probably why it's so expensive. I have no idea what it would cost, but since your walls will be open, I would think half that cost in my area.

I'll pay for the travel, room & board, then!

I was curious, so I checked. Your baseboard would cost about $250 in this area. Your circulator, about $75. Your cleaning, about $150, Your thermostat, relay, wiring, etc., about $150. Copper pipe to go to the boiler and valves, etc, possibly a few hundred. Tieing into the system, ???. It could be easy or hard depending upon your isolation valve set-up.

Bit of a difference, eh?

I think it's far more expensive than Philly, too. (where I'm from originally).

baymee, don't you believe in marking up your material? Don't go into business, if all you plan on for profit is labor you'll starve.
I really don't think the price of a job is anything that should be discussed in a forum such as this. Rates differ so much from one area to another and there are to many what ifs. If I quoted a price to someone and they told me they thought it was to high because somebody on the internet told them so, I'd say fine, then get his ass over to do it! See ya!

I actually doubled the price of the baseboard and the rest of the items were retail prices and I didn't make any quote on labor.

Market prices vary all over, just like you said. That's why I don't work in Shenandoah PA, where you can buy a house for $8,000.

Hey, the guy asked an honest question and I gave an honest answer.

What do we always preach to all who inquire here? "GET MULTIPLE QUOTES" Then, at least, he's got some kind of basis to question the price.

Thanks.

BTW, am TRYING to get multiple quotes, and am having a heck of a time doing so. I'm fairly patient, and not looking for "cut rate" work or anything. I'm a handyman myself and realistic and understanding of what goes into quoting and all. But I've now had 4 guys out here - so far got only one quote, and only after a couple calls after letting a week or so go by. This process started almost 3 weeks ago. The walls are open and the job is there for the taking.

I'm just asking for general guidance. Either $4800 for the first quote was reasonable or not. Small house, open basement walls, need heat zone and thermostat, that's about it. Of course folks need to make a living.

Thanks all for the feedback.

With all due respect, on the face of it, $4800 is ridiculously high, considering he's usinfg the existing boiler. And I don't care where this job is located.

Lets remember one thing here. This is a small heating job at the height of the heating season. Everybodys busy right now so your little job is just that,,, little, unimportant, can't spare the labor. Your timing wasn't very good so basically if you want it done now, its gonna cost you. You may not look at it this way but at this particular time of year they probably don't need you but they will take care of you "for a price". Sorry if that sounds harsh but reality has a way of doing that sometime.

Ah, of course! The "airline seat" model of pricing as opposed to fair price. The market at it's Adam Smith/free market finest. Caveat emptor.

Interesting model in that it often turns trusting folks into suckers.

I never took advantage of anybody, but Mr. Havac is right. It's the wrong time of year for installations.

As you see on other posts, companies are making alot of money with quick fixes. A long drawn-out job this time of year isn't profitable.

Homebound, don't shoot the messenger! I just tell it like it is. I don't condone it but thats just the way things are out there. Hey, Corporate America does it to the public 24/7/365, the petroleum industry has been doing it forever, the utilities should go to jail for the crap they pull but the little contractor who is struggling to make a living and maybe paying out more taxes is supposed to conduct his business with a halo and wings on?

No intention to shoot the messenger! Just being clear that I feel flat out price gouging when it's high season doesn't make it right. Not that you're saying that. And yes, it is what it is.

Homebound,

Why not install the baseboard yourself (it's NOT hard) and have a plumber do the final connections to your boiler?

And I'm in Northern Virginia, too, and the hourly labor rate is just obscene for tradesmen.

Looks like I'll be headed for Northern Va. myself in two weeks. Got to drive to GA to pick up the inlaws. Will be going down I-81. I tried every way I could to get out of the 12 hours drive.

K's right homebound! Even if you don't know how to solder in about 60 minutes you can go from beginner to advanced novice. And for baseboard one of those Presto LP gas torch kits will do the trick.

Yeah, I'm leaning toward doing it myself at this point since everybody's apparently still too busy to get back with numbers.

I do know how to sweat pipe, but I've only done the rare tiny DIY home plumbing job. (Good reason to upgrade to the TS-4000 & MAPP gas!) But I wish I could have seen at least one of these jobs for some know-how. Anyway, maybe I will do the lines myself.

Question: Can you rough into the stud wall or do you just run along the entire base of the wall? Near the bottom or higher a bit? I'm also wondering how difficult it would be to feed tubing through "hole saw" holes in the studs (16 centers). That ok?

Maybe I'll take a look at some heating books at the library.

Soldering is easy, but you should actually watch someone do it, because trying to dry out lines after the joint leaks is no fun.

Take the fittings, sand them lightly on the mating surfaces and apply flux to the sanded surfaces. Remove the burrs on the inside diameter of the pipe with a pocket knife.

Assemble the joints and secure them from moving, if necessary.

Usa a propane or mapp torch and heat around the general area to be soldered. Don't overheat. You have already bent your solder into an L shape at the end. For a 3/4" fitting, it will be 3/4" long. When the area is uniformly warmed, hold the torch on one side of the fitting at the location of the end of the pipe and the L bent solder on the opposite side. When the joint is warm enough, the solder on the opposite side of the flame will start melting into the joint. Pull back a bit on the flame until the entire 3/4" of solder is melted. You will now see the solder around the entire joint. Any more solder and it will start running down the pipe as excess. On upward joints, the solder will be pulled upward to the end of the pipe. If you like a nice job, you can wipe the joint with a towel to remove drips, while it is still hot. This can also result in a joint that moves and has improper bonding.

Try on a few test pieces first.

The hardest joints are those with water on the other side of the valve because you'll need more heat. Valves are soldered in the open position and require much more heat, but not too much that it ruins the nylon inside.

Another potential problem is when you are soldering the last joint and pressure starts to build in the closed system. The expansion of air will tend to push solder out of the joint while it's still in liquid form. If possible, open a vent somewhere.

I believe with proper soldering techniques, anybody can lay out the piping and baseboards and make it a DIY project and let an experienced person hook up to the boiler.

As far as putting pipe through the wall.....maybe if you drill holes in all the studs, including the end stud, you can do it. Otherwise, it's OK to use empty baseboard to hide pipe runs. It's called "enclosure only" baseboard. It hides pipes, but has no radiation.

Good luck, I know you can do it.

Normally you hang the finished drywall, and the baseboard units hang on that. You always leave a little room under the unit to promote proper air flow. You also have to take into account the floor finishing. If you don't have enough clearance you could install carpet and find yourself with no air flow through the baseboard.

You just have to plan your piping scheme very carefully so that you have everything going the proper direction.

And, if you need a helping hand, I might be available.

If you decide to try this project, it might be a good idea to use an elbow with a vent at the end of the run. That way, if you have a bad sweat joint and the lines are full of water, you'll be able to drain them to re-sweat the joint. If you're not hooking up at the boiler, you won't have to worry about building air pressure in the lines and the solder bubbling out on your last solder joint.

Places like the Despot sell Slant Fin baseboard. Sometimes the low cost baseboard will be noisy as it heats. I would look into Haydon baseboard for its quality and quietness.

Thanks for the vote of confidence, guys. Kframe 19, thanks for offering some assistance. If I get into trouble, I'll look for ya!

I'm leaning toward doing part of this, but have a week or so to consider while I finish the framing.

Baymee, thanks for the Haydon tip - I'll look for those.

homebound, most hardware stores will sell you copper tubing in shert lengths and 3/4 inch fittings are not expensive at all. Pick some up and practice a little first. Use a vise, it'll be easier. Do some joints upside down too as you will run into some of these on the install. Once you feel comfortable doing a dozen or so practice joints jump into that project. BTW, no you don't have to go into the wall. Sweat an elbow looking down onto the end of the run of baseboard and right smack below it is where you penetrate the floor with your risers and drops. Drill a small pilot hole first to make sure your didn't land on a stud or other obstruction below. The end cover of the baseboard are made to hide all that piping.

If he has joists below his basement, I hope they are pressure treated. :)

Oh thats right, he is in the basement! Geez this post has gona on for ages it seems! Memories not like it used to be,,, you'll see some day baymee

After seeing another budget-busting quote, I've decided to do the loop myself and rely on the experts to tie it in.

And this job is part of a basement (no floor below for any drops, etc.) that's got permits, so I have a couple questions, please.

I will be running the copper in the walls. Is notching the way to go? (They're non-load-bearing walls, so I can notch up to 40% of the 2x4 studs) Any reason not to do so? Hole saw better or way too much trouble?

And is there a mechanical rough-in inspection, tested under pressure, and when do they do that? After the close-in inspection or is it done before that, somehow? I'm wondering how you finish the loop and test it before the walls are closed, since the baseboards go on afterward (don't they?).

So in general I'm wondering how much of the rough-in I can complete, as it fits into the overall renovation. Thanks very much.