Countertops must be level, in my opinion, and here is an example why:
You bake something on a cookie sheet that leaves a mess in the pan, and you need to soak it overnight with soapy water. The cookie sheet is shallow, so not much water can go in it. You place it on the counter, and the water tends to collect in one area but the other side is high and dry.
I also think that if a contractor agreed to complete certain specific tasks, and then does not do those things, he or she has breached the contract. I don't know what arrangement you have, but I feel that this stuff is not acceptable. You should be able to get what you have paid for.

Oh Dear you must be really disappointed.
You are not being too picky at all.

I would bet, you are being very nice and polite. I am
disappointed with your installers. They need to fix this
today! I demand perfection or pretty dark close from my
installers and they deliver every time. A good
installer /fabricator will come out with special tools and
fix the drawer so it can open. A sander of sorts. At no
extra cost. You paid for installation they need to install
properly.

For the edge on the other area to be level they may need
to re-install or lift and place shims to level this. It
should be close to perfect. Maybe a centimeter off but not
as you describe. If you can post images that would be
really helpful. There are some great Granite Gurus on this
site who can chime in and tell you how you can handle this.

Keep in mind it may take them another full day to fix
this but they have to do it. Don't give up, be firm, strong
and in your kind way insist they fix this.
~boxer

I'm in agreement that ctops should be truly level.

M.

a 1/16th inch over 20" is a pretty good drop. When we leveled our cabinets, anything more than 1/32" over 4' was too much. We had shims cut in 1/32" increments and though it was tedious, we got the base cabinest as close to perfect as we could.

boxerpups- I'm sure you meant to say "millimeter" not "centimeter". One MM is about 1/25" of an inch. Dh and I do a lot of measuring in metric because the math is so much easier.

Duh, Yes, I did thanks Macybaby. I wrote before I had
finished my first cup of coffee, a 2 hour snow delay and
kids running about, one needing her uniform ironed for
cheerleading pictures, DH wanted me to drive my older
teen since he is not so great in the snow yet....and
Clearly I had not been as focused. ; )
~boxer

"The tilt out undersink tray door is not going to work now as the sink is about 1/4" to close to the deeper side of the sink."

There are different depths of tilt out hardware available.

Look at Rockler.

thanks for the support. I am not sure if any fix will be better than the problem now that the adhesive has set up. They have already shimmed both sides of the bar top up so if they shim the low side the plywood edge under the granite will show. What they really need to do is remove the bar top, scrape the adhesive off and start over. The problem is I don't think the are going to get the granite off with out breaking the slab or screwing up the wall. With this stuff you really have one chance to get it right. If they break the slab we are totally sunk. Not sure what we are going to do now. Just amazing how everything was going well until they decided not to listen to me.