"I live in a townhouse in NJ and have an old inside furnace/blower + outside A/C. The system is over 20 years old and certainly needs replacement."

If it's running, it's up to you.

"So I wonder what is my best and most cos effective strategy for replacing the above system- should I go for a heat pump or stick to the furnace/AC combination? I suspect that the line that connects the outside A/C to the inside unit is in the cement floor of my living room so this may limit my choices."

Depends on many factors: do you intend to stay there for 5 to 10 years? As far as HP vs furnace, you need to evaluate your utility costs to determine which one will provide your backup heat (electric, nat. gas, propane, etc.). Calculators are available online for this purpose. Also, if you are used to the hot air feel of a forced air furnace, you may not care for the warm air of a HP.

With regard to your lineset, being that you are in a townhouse, you may have other options where a new set can be run. Most new equipment use R410a refrigerant which is incompatible with older R22. Linesets can be cleaned out, but many new units require larger lines. Where is the inside equipment located (distance) with regard to the outdoor unit?

When you talk about cost-effective, do you mean least expensive. Bells and whistles (2 stage, modulating, high efficiency) usually cost more money. Any furnace-a/c you choose can run efficiently if it is sized correctly to match the heat loss/gain of your home. That is of ultimate importance. Equipment should not be sized by (a) what you had before, (b) based on square footage, or (c) I've been in the business for 20 years, my experience, blah blah blah.
Insist on a printed heat calc (manual J). How is your present heating/cooling; adequate, good air flow to 2nd floor?

Where in Jersey are you.

V

V,

thank you very much for your follow up! Great questions. I will try to answer them:

1. The system is running fine, but I am afraid it will just die soon. I also plan on selling the house within the next 9 months and don't want the old system to be an issue.

2. The average PSE&G utility bill is $150/month, by I am signed up for the equal monthly plan. All appliances are already energy star, light bulbs are energy efficient, and the water heater is tankless on gas. Other than new windows, my only opportunity to lower that bill is in the HVAC system.

3. Inside equipment is the utility closet, smack in the middle of the townhouse, about 25-30 feet from the outside unit.

4. The current system does not handle the house well- the second floor is warmer in the summer and colder in the summer. I do recognize that I also need to take care of insulating the attic in order to improve the second floor climate.

5. In terms of cost-effective criteria, I want to get the most efficiency for my buck. As my utilities bill is already relatively low (I have 2 kids and the dishwasher, washing machine, and dryer run all the time), I want to pay as little as possible. I don't care about the hot air of the furnace as long as the temperature in the house stays comfortably even without major swings up and down.

6. Princeton, NJ

The uneven temperatures are very likely a factor of inadequate ductwork. Many times this can be improved through balancing and/or adding a (or another) return upstairs.

I would discourage you from purchasing the units on Ebay. They aren't the best you can buy, and they don't carry a warranty in general.

Ryan,

What should I be looking for to make sure eBay sellers do offer the warranty? For example, I like what this company offers and they seem legit to me:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Goodman-Gas-Furnace-2-Stage-Variable-Speed-90k-95-HVAC_W0QQitemZ120303343399QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c02a35727&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=%7C293%3A2%7C294%3A30

If you are planning on moving soon, I wouldn't go whole-hog. I would suggest, however, that you get quotes from several contractors. Have them quote mid efficiency (~90%) and Hi Eff (95+%) equipment. You may be able to get higher efficiency equipment for the same or lesser price.

As far as air conditioning equipment is concerned, living in Princeton, you needn't go for the highest SEER (14 - 16). If you go for Hi Eff furnace, that would take care of the tax credit.

Being that you have an attic opens other possibilities for installing equipment and new lineset run outdoors and could help with upstairs heating/cooling.

You wrote: "The current system does not handle the house well- the second floor is warmer in the summer and colder in the summer. I do recognize that I also need to take care of insulating the attic in order to improve the second floor climate."

I take it that's 'colder in winter'. If so, as indicated, system balancing or ductwork modifications might be in order.

For evaluating cost-effectiveness of HP, you need to break out the costs for electric and gas ($/KWH for elec.; $/therm for gas). I assume you're getting both from PSE&G.
But, all other things being equal, a HP installation is usually more expensive (especially if your looking for tax credit) and you won't realize any payback since you are moving.

Good luck.

V

V,

Thank you very much for your thoughts. Looks like I need at least 15 SEER A/C and 92% efficiency furnace to get the max PSE&G rebates:

http://www.njcleanenergy.com/residential/programs/cooladvantage/cooladvantage-program

As far as the tax credit goes, I realized that I will not have a problem reaching it as the windows need replacement anyway so between them and the HVAC I will have enough invested in remodeling.

Thanks again!

CLS500 I think this link below has the answers you're looking for about warranty/

Here is a link that might be useful: Goodman Warranty

Ryan,

Good link and info! I wonder how the eBay guys get away with selling all that equipment online. I noticed that the Desco guys require you go with them thru the section J sizing calculations before buying the system and having a certified technician connect it before giving the buyer the warranty.

Thanks!