What type of heat do you have? Forced air, hydronic, etc? It may be a a fairly easy matter for an HVAC contractor to increase the amount of heat distributed to your bedroom.

What type of insulation is in the walls, ceiling and under the bedroom floor? Adding insulation may be your most economical solution.

You could also consider something like a portable oil-filled radiator. Some models have built-in timers that would allow you to program it to turn on an hour or so before the time you usually rise, and to turn off automatically after you're up and around. That would warm things up in the morning, and you wouldn't have to even think about it.

peptoe

a very common problem for a room directly over a carport or garage.

more insulation is always good; however, I doubt this will give you the comfort you are looking for. I would look into getting more supply air into the room by increasing the supply duct size or adding another supply. you need more CFMs of heat and depending on your area/climate you can probably expect room to be hot in the summer.

IMO

Air sealing will help to keep room conditioned.
If you have attic space that is bedroom wall,
from the attic you should see insulation in wall.
Once these areas are well insulated, then sealing the walls with a foil/foam sheathing board will reflect heat back into attic in summer, and keep attic temp transfer through these shared wall at a minimun.
Once you stop attic air from entering the walls the rooms will be much easier to condition.
If you have recessed lights that are not air tight, then you should retrofit them with air tight baffles.
Best of luck.
Also floors should be insulated between garage and MBR.

Recessed lights are a huge leaker and even 'air tight' units if not installed right can leak quite a bit. I would say air sealing would be the best thing and then adding insulation.

If you have recessed lights that are exposed to attic space I would first attack them. Use spray foam and a small (12pack or so) styrofoam cooler and trim it to fit if needed. clean the insulation out of the way and put some foam down where the cooler will go and set it, foam around it and then sit something on it so the foam don't push it up. Easiest way to seal a recessed light and cost effective too!

definitely insulate as much as you can, but if you reach a limit on that you might try a small electric space heater. It shouldn't be too expensive to operate as long as you don't run it excessively. Be safe though, don't run it when you are sleeping.

Here is a link that might be useful: Room heater safety

Be carefull insulating around recessed lights if older models...could be a fire hazard....especially with that foam. If you already did, I'd switch to those CFL bulbs, they do not get as hot and the price has come down. They do take up to 2 minutes to get to fll brightness though. Isee they now have dimmable ones too.

We have a similar situation in our home. Our bedroom sits partially over a finished garage which appears to be insulated between our bedroom floor and garage ceiling. I can peak between the drywall where garge door hardware is installed and see fiberglass pink stuff anyway. The far bedroom wall is adjacent to attic space above part of the garage which I have access to from in the garage ceiling. I store some XMAS junk up there and I can see the foam foil backed insulation that abuts our bedroom. How much (R value), I am unsure. The house is 20 years old though....not sure what the standards were back then.

Our bedrrom is typically 2 degrees cooler or warmer depending on the season. The bedroom is about 12 X 24 and includes a small bath and walk in closet at one end. 2 vents and one return service the bedroom. An additonal vent is in the bath. The walk in is always very cold or very hot unless we leave the door open. I am not sure if it more efficient to leave the door open or closed.

I guess more insulation can be put in the attic space over the foil faced foam...not sure. I see now way to add insluation between the two levels as the garage is drywalled...like I said, there is some amount of fibergalss in there.

Does this sound like your situation?

If so I have noticed the following after living here 2 years and using a 20 year old Trane heatpump (Hey some day we will upgade and maybe it will get better!)

1) I had access to the dampers to the first floor from my unifinshed basememt. I closed them down quite a bit to try to force more air upstairs when we first moved in. I think that helped a bit.

2) When the heat of summer arrives it really takes a couple of weeks (or so it seems) for the house to even out. At that point the temp in the bedrrom is always 2 degrees hotter. I hate the heat so we lower the stat to compensate. The other bedroom are a bit cooler.

3) Ditto in the winter. Here though we do not mind it a bit cooler. In fact, with our old oil heat we'd use a programable stat to knock the house temp to 60 or so around 9pm and have it at 67 when we awoke. It not efficient to do that with a heat pump so far as I know. Instead we try to leave the stat set on 68 which usually means our bedroom is anywhere from 66-68 depending on the conditions outside. When it gets real cold and the poor ole' trane goes into aux heat mode for most of the day we usually turn the stat down to 65 and use an oil fin heater in our bedroom to make up the differnce. Agian, the model we chose is programmable so its warm when we awake for minimal cost. We have another fin heater in my son's room that works the same way. For some reason my girl's room is always warmer or cooler and usually not an issue.

So.....I'd see about getting your dampers adjusted. I'd give the season a few weeks and see if your home evens out. Finally, I'd pick up an oil fin heater. HD has the 25% off by me already. I got mine 50% last year.

Andre I do not recommend using foam directly on a recessed fixture, that can be a fire hazard. I proposed using styrofoam coolers (12 pack) or so and sitting one over each fixture and foaming around the cooler. This is to keep them from overheating so there is an air space but it is sealed from the attic.

Foaming a recessed light directly is not a safe idea!

I have a recessed light in my FR that is leaky. I like the cooler method...I just was not sure that even that would not be a fire hazard. I did recently convert to a cfl bulb so I would think not but still....just want to be safe.