That looks like a nice, bright, cheery kitchen as it is.

But if you really are keen to update, install a newer, more stylish overhead fluorescent with electronic ballast and T8, 3000K or 3500K lamps. Since everything is white you might like the whiter light of the 3500K. I would avoid "cool white" (4100K) because it screams "office fluorescent," but with 82CRI lamps it's at least more tolerable.

Speaking of which, be sure to get 82+ CRI lamps. The part number will probably contain the digits 830 or 835; or 841 for "cool white."

If you need the light, I would suggest staying with fluorescent also. You could put up a track lighting system, but it tends to get the room warm, and if you are working in a small kitchen, that is a problem. There are beautiful new fluorescent fixtures on the market that will enhance the appearance. Check out American Fluorescent, Sea Gull Lighting, Lightolier, just to name a few. I know that American Fluorescent came out with some really neat fluorescent fixtures.

Thank you both very much -- I think something a tad less industrial is what I'm after, and I didn't realize that new fluorescent lights had electronic ballasts! Good information about track lighting too. Thanks! I'll be hitting our lighting store on Wednesday armed with a bit more information now.

When I priced Philips F32T8 tubes in Home Depot, I found temperatures of 3000k, 4100k, 5000k and 6500k, ranging in price from $3 to $6. My own preference in my kitchen is for the 6500k tubes (very bright!). It's easy to experiment.

If you replace the fixture, do you get new ballasts with it? I want to keep using my old F40T12 fixtures (the pins on the tubes look identical). H/D had a big sign recommending the "REL-2P32-SC" ballast for my new application. I've since been pointed to a "REB-2P32-SC" ballast, but not sure of the details/advantages yet.

The REL-2P32-SC is an Advance brand ballast. I've used a bunch of them. I'd call them low- to mid-line ballasts, but they work fine. Note that these ballasts do produce a small amount of audible hum. I don't see any flicker, and startup is very fast.

The difference between the REL and REB ranges is that the former is a commercial unit and the latter is a residential unit. The REL has a much better power factor and radiates far lower harmonic distortion on the power line. These qualities are more important in commercial applications than in the home, but if the REL doesn't cost much more I'd go for it over the REB.

Either ballast should be used only with T8 lamps, but T8s will fit the old lampholders just fine. The lampholders have two pins; just connect them together as the wiring diagram shows.

To my eyes 6500K is freezing cold, like an overcast winter's day. I prefer a color temperature of 2700K to 3500K. Regardless of the CT you choose, be sure to get CRI (color rendering index) in the 82 range, not in the 70s. It really makes a difference in the quality of the light.