Answers to questions..

1. Dingy whites. Everyone raves about how white their clothes come out. Ours come out grey. its weird even after a couple washes brand new white socks start to discolor.

Try using Persil detergent products. I have three Miele washer/dryer sets and I swear by this detergent. This is the "only" detergent Miele recommends for their washers. Greying clothing is usually a sign your not using enough detergent. Call Miele and purchase the Miele detergent scoop. The scoop will give you an idea of how much to use. Personally, I don't use American brand HE detergents i.e. Tide HE. I feel they cannot handle the sustained and sometimes high temperatures of Miele washers. Keep in mind the HE detergents here in America are for developed for US machines.

2. We are moving. Right now our dryer is on top of the washer. I have the parts to separate them but don't have any instructions. Is this something that is super easy or do I need to have the repairman do it.

Does your washer/dryer stack have a pull out shelf ? If so, the stacking kit model # is WTV313. Call the Miele parts dept. and give them the model #. They should be able to assist you.

3. I also read some thing about getting shipping blocks or something when moving the washer. I'm moving about 4 blocks away If I'm very careful do I need this?. Is this something I buy or can I rent it from my Miele dealer?

Shipping brackets can be "purchased" for this model at a cost of around $70.00. I would not advise moving washer without the brackets, you "may" damage it and then again you may not. I would not risk it..

Hope this helps.

I've been using a Miele w1918 washer for years. All of my laundry comes out perfectly clean and whites remain snowy white with no additives. I use Persil Megaperls detergent (available online or through Miele dealers), mainly because I can't stand the smell of Tide or most American laundry products.

I use the default extended wash program for all loads, unless I need something in a hurry. I wash white underwear (or other items containing elastic) in the normal program at 140F. White towels and white linens get washed at 180F. Colors at lower temperatures.

A couple of questions....are you on well water? If so, does it contain a lot of calcium? How hard is your water? If it's very soft, you may need to use less detergent and the "Water Plus" option to increase the water level in the rinse cycles. You can also permanently program an extra rinse. To do this:

1. Turn off the machine, close the door, and release all pushbuttons. Set the Program Selector Switch to "Finish/Start".

2. Perform steps 2 and 3 within 4 seconds.
Press the "ON/OFF" button.

3. Press the "Water Plus" button 4 times (i.e. press in and out twice)

The "ON" lamp will illuminate and the "Pre Wash" and "Main Wash" lamps will flash.

4. Set the Program Selector to "Drain".

5. Press the "Water Plus" button twice (i.e. in and out once) to toggle the extra rinse function ON.

The "Rinse 1-2" lamp will illuminate when the function is activated.

6. Store the function into memory by pressing the "ON/OFF" button

To check if the function has been stored, perform steps 1 to 4. If the "Rinse 1-2" lamp lights, the function is active. Press the "ON/OFF" button. This will finishes the check of the programmable extra rinse function.

To deprogram the extra rinse, repeat the process to toggle the function off.

Also, how often do you clean out the sump and lint trap on the washer? You should do this periodically to be sure there's no gunk accumulating there. You can drain and clean the sump by prying open the little door at the bottom left of the washer (there should be a little orange plastic tool for doing this attached to the back of the drawer-front on the detergent dispenser). Place a 2 quart capacity container under the little spout attached to the back of the door. Then slowly turn the large knob (which is the lint trap) behind the door counter clockwise. Water will begin to drain. When the water stops, continue turning the knob until you can pull the lint trap out. Rinse it and check for any debris in the trap. Replace the lint trap and close the door.

The detergent dispenser drawer can be removed by pulling it all the way out and depressing the red release lever at the back of the drawer. Take it out and scrub it clean in the sink.

Do not attempt to move the appliances with the dryer stacked on top. My washer and dryer are side-by-side, so I'm not sure what's involved to unstack them. I do know that stacking them involves removing the top of the washer and installation of a "stacking kit" which is purchased separately. If you contact Miele Customer Service, they can fax instructions for stacking and unstacking.

Moving the washer without the shipping struts in place is not recommended. I'm not sure if you can get a set from Miele. If not, and since you're moving only a short distance, you might be successful without them, but in that case, do not tilt the washer (as on a two-wheeled dolly), or you will damage the suspension. The washer will need to be kept as level as possible, and do not under any circumstances bounce it up or down stairs. The washer is extremely heavy, so you'll need to round up a team of strong people to assist you.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Byron.

I'll give Persil a shot.

Yeah, right now we have the shelf. I'm guessing I need to separate the washer/dryer remove the shelf and put the washer top back on. If I remember right I have a bag full of parts but no instructions on how to unstack them.

I saw a manual that showed storing the shipping struts on the back of the washer. Hopefully the installer put mine there. I'll check when I get home.

wa8b.

Thanks for the info. I'm not on well water live in Salt Lake City, Utah my water is pretty hard. Definitely contains calcium.

Do you think I could have problems from washing it too high of heat? I didn't always wash it on the highest heat but have for a year or so. (I was thinking it would help to wash it hotter)

I've never cleaned the lint trap. Will do it when I get home.

The tray itself is pretty clean. The layer of slime is on the washer itself at the back end of where the tray sits. I can clean the outside out but you can t see anything after a couple of inches I wonder if the slime keeps going after what I can see.

I'm going to have the washer side/side in my new house.
(there's a cabinet above where the washer sits in my new house)

I have a walk out basement and my laundry is on the main in the new house so I won't have to go up or down any stairs. Hopefully I have the struts attached to the back of the washer.

I'm wondering if you're washing whites separately? Washing whites at high temperatures with any colored items mixed into the load would lead to dingy whites. The high-temperature extended wash programs will tend to leech dyes out of colored items in very hot water and cause your whites to take up some of the leeched dyes. Whites need to be washed separately with no colored items mixed in.

I don't think high temperatures are your problem, unless you're mixing in colored items with your whites. Washing cotton whites at high temperatures in an extended wash program should result in very good cleaning and sparkling whites. As an aside, you also probably don't want to wash items containing elastic (jockey shorts, crew socks, etc.) at temperatures higher than 140F because you'll significantly shorten the life of the elastic, but even at 140F, you should get very good results. I know I do.

Not sure I'm understanding where you're having the slime accumulation. Do you mean in the back of the gray plastic area where the detergent dispenser drawer slides in? I find a small build-up of gunk is possible there, especially if you use liquid fabric softener. I don't use fabric softeners, but I do periodically wipe out the area at the back of the dispenser drawer area with a damp cloth. I haven't really had much problem with any build up.

Anyway, give the Persil detergent a try. As I said, I use the Megaperls formula, which is more concentrated than the regular powder formula. I'm in Seattle, where water is fairly soft, so I use a scant 1/8 cup per load with very good results. When I lived in Germany (where water is extremely hard) I also had a Miele washer, but had to use about 1-1/2 to two times as much Persil per load.

I don't think your problem lies with the washer. If you're getting dingy whites in a Miele washer, it's something else. I've never used any washing machine that cleaned more thoroughly than my trusty Miele.

Hang on to your w1918. In my opinion they were the last of the really best washers that Miele imported to N. America. The newer models now operate on 120V and aren't capable of the high wash temperatures available on the w1918. I've had my w1918 for almost ten years....and hope it lasts for at least ten more. There's no other washer available in N. America that compares. The w1918 is a great machine!

We have a W1918 and love it. Whites are white. We use Persil detergent.

I would recommend that you call Miele regarding unstacking your units and the slime. Miele support is very helpful.

I would also order the shipping struts for the move.

If your whites have any synthetic materials, high temperature washes will grey them, and I speak from experience after washing 100% synthetic white undergarments in super hot water (they turned into a grey color). I would wash these fabrics with nothing over 140 degrees F or less. High temp washes for whites work fabulously for 100% cotton items and can withstand the 190 degree cycle. Any other fabrics will discolor or get damaged.

I'm sure Miele tech service can give you instructions on disassembeling the stack. However, when I moved my stacked Miele washer/dryer my installer was able to move my stacked units in one piece without disassembly.

For a 4 block move, the shipping struts may not be necessary. They lock the drum in to place to prevent it from banging around inside of the washing machine chassis. If the machine is moved carefully and isn't jerked or tilted you're probably OK for a 4 block move. Shipping struts are definitely required for long haul transportation where hard and sudden shifts in the drum may cause it to bang it against other components in the machine which will ultimately cause damage..

And yes, the W1918 is an excellent machine so I wouldn't give it up especially with the prices of new Miele machines.

Hi,
I got an offer to buy new (sealed) Miele combo, W1918 and T1576 dryer, both for 1,400. I'm in doubt, old models, even though never used, but at the same, had a Miele back in Germany and loved it, and see great reviews for this model. Buy, or not to buy? :)
Thanks!

You don't need Persil to get your whites white. Just make sure you are using enough detergent, and if you have hard water you should consider adding a chemical softening agent such as Calgon, STPP, STP, or Citrate.

cgalya -- If you have an opportunity to buy a new W1918 and T1576, I'd say go for it! I know if I could find the same opportunity, I'd jump at it, and just store the pair away until my existing laundry set was past it.

As far as I'm concerned, the W1918 was the last washer that Miele offered in N. America that was a true European washer. All newer models have been "dumbed down" to cater to American consumers who complained about the length of time required for extended wash programs to run, or didn't want to take the time to understand the theory behind high-temperature extended wash programs, or didn't want to deal with the electrical requirements needed for high-temperature wash programs.

None of the current offerings from Miele in North America can compare. I don't know what I'll do when my current washer and dryer wear out....but fortunately, since my W1918 is only about ten years old....I think I still have at least another ten years or so....before I have to worry about it.

@wa8b: Actually I used to think the same thing, but after using the W4842 for a few months now I realize it cleans just as well - if not better - than the European "boil wash" Asko that preceded it. Suburbanmd has posted elsewhere of the damage that can be caused to fabric fibers by using excessively high temps, and to be honest I only ever used 160F temps and higher only a few times in a year. The same results can be accomplished with lower temps and use of sodium percarbonate. If you need to disinfect your laundry, add a tablespoon or so of chlorine bleach and your laundry will be disinfected without any impact on colorfastness.

Have you seen a W48XX washer, or looked at the manuals? The wash cycles can be plenty long, and the available temperatures aren't dumbed-down. They can't do boil-wash, and admittedly I wish I could try it. But, not owning any articles made of white cotton with no synthetic elastic or trimming, I'm not sure how much real use I'd get out of it.

Yeah, the slower heater can result in some cycles being lengthened. But that's just more long tumbling with gradual heating, which is a good thing, right? :-)

As for why these machines were discontinued in North America, we can all speculate. My guess is that their small capacity has something to do with it.

Of course I meant, why the W1918 and their ilk were discontinued, not the W48XX which thankfully are still available.

I own a Miele w1918 washer/dryer set and their GREAT. The dryer you mentioned T1576 however is not the matching dryer for the w1918 washer. If you plan to stack these units a stacking kit is needed and there may an another issue. The T1576 dryer is deeper than the w1918 and may hang over the back of the washer. If you plan to place units side by side there should not be an issue. Just keep in mind the dryer may stick out more than the washer if you don't have the extra space behind the dryer. Call Miele to insure there are no (safety) issues.

I have an opportunity to buy a miele w1918 washer and t1576 dryer used as a set for $500. Thoughts? Apparently gently used and is approx 6 years old.

Buy it, never look back. Have it checked out and installed by miele techs if possible.

Check it out and if it is in good working order, go for it. These machines were the last of the "made for US market" Miele's that allowed the user a lot of control over their wash temps and other options.

I have a Miele W1926, also a 240V machine, evidently a larger capacity version of the W1918 (6kg vs 5kg); the downside is a slower max spin speed (1200 instead of 1600 rpm) and 4" added depth. It, along with the W1918 and W1930 is amongst the last of the U.S. Mieles to give the user lots of control over what it does; the W1966 that replaced it had "simpler" (read: dumbed-down) controls.

In another thread, we concluded Steve Jobs owns a W1918 or the blends-into-the-cabinetry W1930 variant. He was quoted as getting "more thrill out of it than I have out of any piece of high tech in years". When the guy who brought forth the Mac, iPod, iPhone, and iPad thinks a washing machine is cooler than any gadget he's used in years, it has my vote....

Ok I'm completely stupid. Its a 1986 washer. Is that still wroth it?

Does anyone know if the 1986 can do a "nuke and wash" cycle of 95C? I have a 20 year old AEG oko lavamat that I adore but I've cooked through two dyers and went looking for a dryer and found this use set.

I think the W1986 was the successor to the W1966 and the last one that ran on 208 or 240V power. Yes, it can do 190F (i think that's 90C) wash temps. Has a NEMA 14-30P plug (for connection to 120/208-240V, 15A, 60HZ AC power outlet)

User's guide and installation manual: Miele W1986

I'd buy them if they look good. I own a 1918 (and love it!) and recently scarfed up a used 1986 for $200 (Originally CL'd for 150, but at the last minute seller raised the price by 50 bucks. Still worth it, IMO, though.)

My "new" 1986 had a bad case of stinky-bioflim nastiness, which over the last week or so I've corrected by breaking it down almost completely and cleaning away. I've done everything except tear the drums apart. So far the break-down work has been quite easy. Taking the drums apart is the only really complicated part, hence that's where I've halted. I've pretty much decided to put it back together at this stage and see if I can clean anything remaining in the innards using washer-cleaning products and high temps. I figure if that doesn't work out, I have only wasted less than an hour of work to re-open it to the state it is in now and carry on with breaking down the drum assembly.

BE SURE TO GET THE WATER SUPPLY HOSES! I couldn't pry them away from the seller and found aftrward, to my chagrin, they cost fifty bucks from Miele. EACH!(Actually I'll think I'll try to make up my own and send these back.) New door boots are $80 and a new drain hose is $45 or so, try to nab it as well. The drain hose is tough to clean thoroughly - the jury is still out on it.

I haven't had any use of this machine since it's not reassembled and installed yet, but it has some features the 1918 doesn't have (soak cycle, for one) and the default shorter wash cycles with extra rinses that I'm looking forward to playing with. It doesn't have as many choices for temps, and I think slightly lower max rpm spins (which was why I chose the 1918 back when I bought it new.)

What it undoubtedly does have, though, is the beefy heater of the old, no longer available, 220V machines.

L

I got a Miele washing machine W1918, it has been performed excellent for about 10 years until last week.
The Check water indicator light was flashing during washing. Then stopped. I had to through spin cycle to get the clothes dry before removing them.
I followed the manual instructions to perform these two tasks:

1) cleaned drain pump & lint trap. DONE.
2) Asked the plumber stopped by to check both water inlet valves and hoses. DONE.

Now when I turn the machine on. I hear waster flowing noise but there is no water in the washer. Do you have any suggestion before I called Miele technician to fix it. The cost to repair could be as much as getting a new front load machine from GE and others, I guess.

Best regards,