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can my floor support 3cm granite countertops?

16 years ago

How do I determine if my 1970s floor joists can support a 3cm granite island countertop and perimeter countertops. I'm not so concerned about the perimeter countertops - but want to be sure about the island! Joists are 2x12, 16 on center. Unsupported span in the bedroom below the kitchen is about 11 feet. The island will actually sit on top of the bedroom hall wall below it. Planned island size is about 6 feet x 5 feet.

We have the kitchen floor partially open now (to run gas and plumbing) so I could possibly sister on additional lumber to the joists if I need it. Much easier to do now than to find out after the new hardwood floors are installed!

Thanks in advance for any tips or suggestions.

p.s., I've been reading through many of the "I wish I would have..." and "I will do this next time..." and "amazing backsplashes" posts. THEY ARE ALL AWESOME! thanks!

Comments (4)

  • 16 years ago

    I think your floor is fine. 2x12 over an 11' span should be fine. And if there is a support wall under where the island will go then there should be no issue at all (provided you have an adequate subfloor installed).

    This is a lb per square inch issue, and even though the countertop is heavy, it is spread out over a wide area. Your fridge is one of the heaviest lb per square inch, it has all the weight over four tiny feet. It is sort of like when your cat walks on you. They aren't that heavy but when they put all their weight on one small foot - it feels like a whole lot more (especially if they step on your bladder LOL!).

    Cathy

  • 16 years ago

    you should be fine.... 2x12's spaced 16" OC is an industry standard for
    flooring support..... you should have no worries

    hth

    kevin

  • 7 years ago

    We're a couple who have renovated/restored 2 "historic" homes. We're intelligent; we research; we read a lot; we plan carefully; etc. But, with 35+ years of projects and renovation now behind us, I emphatically suggest, "ALWAYS get an EXPERT's advice!" A real expert.

    • Houses, like our bodies, are an integrated whole - "trouble" in one small area can cause trouble/challenges in seemingly unrelated other parts. Consequently:

    • We only trust certified ENGINEERS or ARCHITECTS in cases like those described above. Example: When we were considering tiling a 15'x25' kitchen floor in our 1895 house (a frame Queen Anne), we asked a restoration architect's advice. He pointed out that the floor (and joists) are connected to the walls, etc. - adding significant weight in one room can/may cause problems all over the structure - cracks in walls in other rooms, etc... Even tho' our 1890s floor joists were a full, "historic" 2"x16", he advised against it.

    • A couple of years later, we wanted to add 12' of built-in bookcases in a 2nd floor library, to hold BOOKS (notjust little light-weight gee-gaws and "pretties"). Even though the proposed placement was on a load-bearing wall, we called an engineer. He drew, determined the ultimate weight of the 14" deep (and 9' tall) shelves crammed with books, punched his calculator, massaged data, and finally said we'd be OK, ONLY because the weight we were adding to the wall would be "carried" by 2 lower floors AND because the lumber in our house was "full size." He noted that lumber today is 1/4" smaller (width AND depth) - if that were the case for those joists, the additional bookcase weight MAY have been a problem.

    • Restoration and remodeling is rewarding and enjoyable - good luck!



  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    This is a simple span table. L833 deflection. It’s more than fine for even putting down natural stone tile and a heavy counter.

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