Yes, paint is thicker than primer. A cheap flat paint will hide imperfections better than a primer, but even though flat paint may hide imperfections better, it does not serve as a good primer because it does not seal. There is nothing wrong with doing multiple coats of primer, though at some point (probably after 2 coats) you will reach a point of maximum saturation so that by doing successive coats of primer you are not gaining anything. Backrollng is important as well, especially with the first coat over new drywall. Don't just spray it and leave it.

You can use caulk to fill pinholes in the drywall, but I don't really see a point to that. The holes come from drywallers applying the mud too heavy....usually because they are trying to do something in two coats that should get three. Caulk shrinks, so you may still see the holes after they are caulked. Plus, caulk is really meant for gaps. I understand there may be a dust issue, but really those holes can almost be patched flush with minimal sanding required.

As expected, a smoothwall job requires alot of mud work. Some of the structure involves difficult shapes/transitions and crisp corners. A high build primer was sprayed, not back-rolled, up to 4 coats in places. The walls were vacuumed and dusted very well initially.

Using 1000 watt lights on stands, you can still see very minor sanding scratches that are telegraphing through the primer coats. There is still minor patches of pin holes showing which they referenced using caulk to not have to re-vacuum/dust.

The painters perspective is that there will never be 1000 watts of light other than now and that the paint will finish-off covering the light scratches. Some of these are on the ceiling which will be painted flat white and I'm being told they will never be noticed. I am gun-shy currently as there has been much rework lately.

They have lightly sanded between several of the primer coats as well as intend on back-rolling the color coats. If you are wondering, the painter and finish taper is the same contractor.

Thanks paintguy

Did they skim coat as a final coat the compounds before priming and paint? If not , you aren't going to achieve a true smooth wall as the compounds and the paper of the drywall absorb the primer/topcoats differently. Skim coating, "sizes" the paper to allow even penetration of the primer/topcoating. The best smoothwall application is plaster over blueboard ,imo. It's hard to achieve with drywall no matter how skilled the finisher. Most level 5 finishes aren't even close to being decent, again, imo.

Sierraeast...Instead of skim-coating the entire surface they sprayed it with Hamilton prep coat after taping. It is a vinyl based coating that provides a bridgeable uniform surface for the top coats.

The short story on this type of product IMHO, is that they are complete junk. While it may be fine in a commercial environment I see no benifit or desire to have it in a home other than to hide bad prep work.

I was unable to find anyone locally familiar with blueboard. Though I did not search out exotic outfits that I do know exist, at a premium cost.

I am quite happy with our final results. But it has been at a considerable expense and amount of time. The finish contractor has stepped up and worked this job to my satisfaction for over three weeks. Never again with modern recycled garbage sheetrock, never again.

Hi mlo1, Plaster over blueboard is primarily in the New England states. I dont know why it never expanded beyond that area because it is impressive, imo. It is, like most practices, highly dependent on the finisher, but a reputable one can make it turn out like glass. Then comes the painter who also must be reputable in order not to ruin a decent plaster job. Everything seems to be a snowball effect when relying on trades and who comes up to bat after the other.

It sounds like your painter is on track concerning minor scratching and back rolling the spray on the topcoats. As far as the pin holes in the mud being applied too thick, it can simply be filled and feathered/primered if they are willing to give that the attention it needs. Applying the mud too heavy is a common mistake by finishers and typically ends up costing them more time due to call backs if they are reputable and willing to make the fix.