Depending upon your skill with a free-swinging door in one hand and a drill in the other, you might find it easier to drill with the doors removed. You don't mention whether you're dealing with pulls or knobs, but the basic procedure is the same.

Decide where you'd like your hardware to be on a normal base door. (Not a tall door, or exceptionally skinny, etc)

Get a rectangular piece of plywood (1/4 or 1/2 inch is fine), that is a couple inches longer than the length of where the bottom hole measured to on your door. In other words, say your bottom hole (or single hole if it's a knob) will be located 6" down from the top of your door. Cut your piece to 8" long and make it the width of your door stile.

Now measure and mark the two holes (or one) on your plywood jig, (measure down from the top of the jig, and centered left to right) and drill through to a piece of scrap (you can use the same drill bit that you need for your hardware)

Take your plywood jig and align it to the top and side of the door, and use an awl (if you have one) or a pencil to mark the drilling locations.

The only things to think about: Tall doors, skinny doors, pull-out type doors (like recycling centers attached to a door) and where you want to drill wall door hardware.

As far as drawers, well, the fastest method will probably be to just measure, mark and drill. Just remove them first.

Good luck!

Thanks, Woodzilla! Since I looked up what a jig and awl were, I'm feeling much better. :)

I am doing handles on my drawers and knobs on the upper cabs and lazy susan door. I'm also very excited about the "finger pull" for my spice pull-out!

Sounds like a nice combination! Good luck, and drill carefully! (No fingers!) ;)

Slab doors? Anywho, we usually start positioning our pulls at 2 and 2. Two inches in from the side and two inches up/down from the top of doors. You may want to be different though.
Use a GOOD 3/16 drill bit
Are all the drawer fronts the same...center, if not we usually center the top drawer pull and then if the lower drawer fronts are bigger, we keep the same distance on the lower drawers as the top. When you go to drill use something (block of wood)on the back side of the doors/drawers to keep it from blowing out when the bit comes through. We usually just drill the holes using the jig to drill through. Once you make your jig for the hole drilling, if you are using 1/2 inch material for the jig, cut two other pieces of material lets say about 1 1/4 inch wide that will go from side to side and top to bottom. Center one on the side and screw it to the jig then put the other on the top centered. If you have done it right...hopefully I have explained it right...your jig will now rest on the corner of you cabinet door and the holes in your jig will be where you want them to be on the door. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, test drill a piece of test material before you drill that first hole in your cabinet door/drawer to make sure the centers are right. This type of jig will let you put pulls on after the cabinets are hung.

Sounds like you're getting very good advice. Just wanted to add something else for you to consider. Our upper cabinets have a light rail on the bottom edge (I think that's what it's called) so the bottom edge is actually 2.5" thick. The builder, however, drilled the hardware holes only 2" from the bottom edge. And the 6"-long handles came with heavy duty screws that had a pretty high profile. That means that when the cabinet door closed, the big screw made an indentation in the light rail part of the cabinet. You can see the "X" of the phillips head pretty clearly. So they should have considered that and drilled the holes higher. I hope that makes sense. Good luck!

Thanks for the great instructions and tips. I'm feeling much more confident now... but will be sure to practice.

These are inexpensive and quite useful (I saw a contractor using them on the DIY Network this past week). I have been advised to hold a piece of wood behind so you get a cleaner exit hole on the back. Using a punch to create an indent can keep the bit from wandering on start up.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lee Valley jig

I bought one of those jigs. It seemed like a great idea... But I needed metric measurements and it only had one or two settings for metric. So I ended up making a jig that I used on all my drawers and doors.

Once you decide where you want your handles, then you can make the jig. For drawers, you just need one set of measurements. For doors you need two sets of measurements because you will need to flip the jig for the door swing.

For drawers, I put a piece of blue painters tape on the top edge of the drawer, measured the middle of the drawer and marked it on the blue tape. With the drawer pulled out a couple inches, I set the jig on the drawer and lined up the center line in the blue tape with the center of the jig's hole. I then marked the handle positions. Because we wanted our handles in the middle of each drawer, we have a spacing on the jig for each drawer.

Doors are much the same. But I made the spacing such that the middle of the jig hole is the bottom of the door.

Sorry the pictures are a little blurry, but I hope you get the idea. I tried to annotate the bottom picture on Photobucket, but the words don't appear to be coming out here.

Never had to take anything off the cabinets and all said and done it took an hour or so to make the jig and a couple hours for ~50 pieces of hardware.