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annzgw

Another question re: priming

19 years ago

We're now getting getting bids on having the exterior of a 14 yr old house painted. Overall, it's in pretty good condition except for chalking on most of the trim, some peeling paint on the base of a few porch columns and some areas of the overhang that is showing bare wood.

I know the bare wood needs priming, but my question is: should we prime the whole house before they paint? And at what stage should the recaulking around the windows be done?


One painter has said no priming is needed.........he'd just wash the house, sand any remaining loose paint and then use an additive in the paint.

Comments (8)

  • 19 years ago

    Good Grief!
    ...a painter who says "no priming needed" on a 14-yr. worn surface...Wow.
    If the trim is chalking, I'll pretty-much guarantee most of the main siding-body is too.
    * Correct...the trim AND house needs pressure-washing. Use a good siding cleaner...light scrubbing...rinse good...let dry A WEEK.
    * Pressure-washing pushes water into substrates somewhat, so it takes longer to dry out.
    * Then, PRIME EVERYTHING. Outside paints have a hard enough time!! Primed surfaces give a good, even substance to "grip" to; AND...the sheen developes more evenly.
    * I'd use Satin for the main body, and a S/Gloss for trims.
    * Flats tend to get/stay "dirtier". Satins/Glosses rinse off better.

    ADDITIVES...most are for assisting with leveling. I think they're used too frequently. Totally "smooth" exteriors look kind of corny I think.
    * There's no additive that will help more than a good prime-coat on a well-prepped surface.
    * Primers do most of the work...they "hold" the paint-coats
    onto the substrate. The color-layers (paint) are what take the pounding...so anyone who thinks one coat of paint is enough, must have a LOT of faith in ONE coat of paint!!
    * Obviously then...
    >>> On a clean/dry/prep-sanded house:
    One coat of Primer...TWO coats of color!!

    Faron

  • 19 years ago

    Thanks faron. That's what I was thinking but it's nice to have it confirmed. I had also questioned the drying period after pressure washing. So far, one has said 2 hrs., another 24 hrs.

    I'll be meeting another painter next week..........

  • PRO
    19 years ago

    Great post, Faron.

  • 19 years ago

    Do you prime first and then caulk? Or caulk first?

  • 19 years ago

    Prime, caulk, prime.

    As for priming the whole house, it's typically not necessary, especially on stucco. No amount of priming can prevent a failure of the previous coatings. If it's in good shape, then it's just a needless step that will add little to the longevity of the coating especailly if you use use 2 coats of a premium exterior latex. The key is to ensure the house is clean, especially when there is evidence of chalking. If the old coating is failing, then it all must be removed and primed. Any bare wood should always be primed - always.

    Be sure to stay as far away as possible from the clown that doesn't think any priming is necessary and beleives he can add something to make it stick!

  • 19 years ago

    Hi again Annz & everyone,

    Paintguy1's last sentence pretty-much sums it up!
    * I wonder why "painter x" thinks 2 hrs. is enuff dry-time after pressure-washing...Wow! What a hoot!
    * I realize most people/painters want to "get it over with", but physics is physics! Water can only come out so fast...
    * I'm just gonna respectfully disagree with only a portion of Paintguy1's post...if everything is primed, the sheen of the topcoats will be as uniform as possible. There's differing opinions on this, and I respect them.
    * If there happens to be a drier area(s) for whatever reason, the sheens of the topcoats usually appear slightly duller, since a bigger portion of the new paint is absorbed. Priming prevents this...letting the sheens develope on TOP of the primer.

    (Funcolors...thank you for your kind opinion!)

    Faron

  • 19 years ago

    If you are seeing sheen uniformity issues after 2 coats, then you used the wrong paint. Most high quality premium paints are formulated for recoating a previously painted surface and while some flashing may be seen after one coat, it should never been seen after two. Listen, if you are going to pay for two coats (which most painters typically include in their bids), it has been proven time and again that two finish coats over a sound substrate will provide the best performance. If you don't mind paying for a third coat or if there is widespread failure going on down to the bare wood, then priming the entire substrate makes sense or for the latter scenario, is mandatory.

  • PRO
    19 years ago

    Spot priming has too much psychological baggage for me. Interior and exterior. While spot priming may really be an adequate way to go about it, my fussiest clients would still "see" something wrong, KWIM. Whether a set of "regular" eyeballs could see any irregularities or not, my typical client inevitably would. Either immediately or later on down the road.

    It truly is just more prudent and wiser to advise them to fork over the extra few dollars for a total prime rather than leave room for second guessing and Monday morning quarterbacking. Faron's priming point of view sums up my situation perfectly, "Priming solves many problems, but creates none!" For me, that is so true in so many ways.