I used the xenon bar lights from Lowe's and I'm very happy with them.

My local lighting place recommended Westek Xenon task lights: then the electrician that THEY recommended said that to save money, to go with NSL Xenon. He said they cost more, but I'll save $$ in the long run, because I won't have to have him out to replace them in a year or so. And he told me to buy them online, so he isn't making any $$ off of me by upselling me. I'll be getting the NSL's.

We went with xenon lights from Pegusus Lighting:

We love them. They give a nice even light. They do make the cabinets above them warm (not hot) but probably couldn't put anything meltable on the first shelf.

Here is a link that might be useful: pegusus lights

I just installed our undercabinet lights yesterday. I used the 120v 20w Xenon pucks. They are hardwired and I took out the regular switch and installed a dimmer. I was told by one person that these lights were not meant to be installed this way but several others told me there would be no problem. They do look very good and work great. I installed 9 of them with a total cost of $60 for the pucks and $10 for the dimmer at Lowes.

I attached two pics of the lights and one pic of the lights themselves. One pic at full light and one at half light. I tried to get a pic of them with low light but I could not get my camera to cooperate with the coloring at low light.

Im all about bang for your buck and after looking at every light, I doubt I could get a better outcome with lights that cost three to four times what I paid.

Would someone please post of pictures of the wires? Are they under the cabinet or inside?

If you use a track system like the JUNO T-12 or the fixtures from Pegusus you can virtually eliminate the "fixture reflection" on the counter top and the "W" on the back splash.

We just put in led lights by Lithonia, very stealth and excellent light. And not pricey

I also have NSL Xenons - provided by the electrician. I did have a problem with them twice - first time I had the GC replace the fixture but he used a different brand and the lighting didn't "match". So I ordered another NSL that also went bad in less than a year. I finally called NSL and they advised me that it was probably the transformer that went bad (which apparently can happen in an electrical storm which might have been the case). They sent me a new transformer at no charge and I've had no problems since and I've now had them for five years. I think it was maybe a bad batch of transformers. It was annoying but I was pleased with their service.

I have the Pegasus low-voltage Xenon strips. Very nice lights, dimmable, warm color, and they don't heat up the cabinet above.

"I used the 120v 20w Xenon pucks."

Be sure to purchase lots of spare bulbs, you are going to need them.

The 120 V puck bulbs do not stand up to the normal vibration from putting things in the cabinets above them.

A 120 V filament is not as mechanically strong as a 12 V filament.

I have replaced the 120 V pucks for numerous customers when they keep blowing $5 bulbs every few months from vibration of loading things in the cabinets.

Puck lights as well as other fixtures that come with lamp cord and a plug should not be hardwired. The insulation on twisted, not solid, lamp cord is not rated to be connected inside a junction box. Romex is so rated. Totally replacing the lamp cord with Romex is another problem because the fixture itself may not be properly designed to accept this type of connection.

Bottom line:
Can you hardwire a fixture designed to be puged into a wall socket? Yes.
Is it safe? Maybe.
Can it cause a fire? Maybe.
Does it violate the NEC, NFPA, and UL codes? Most Likely.
Should you spend the extra money and buy fixtures designed to be hard wired? I think so.