This seems to be the same capital precision I have, minus the rotisserie (I love the grill). It is a particularly deep unit and I had some difficulty with a door on the cabinet perpendicular to it. When I measure from the back of the little vent thing that sticks up at the back to the front edge of the lip overhanging the door, I get 28". Don't know if the measurement on the spec sheet is 1/2 inch longer because there's something in the back (like gas connection) that adds 1/2" or not. I'll leave that to you to determine.

FRom the edge of the overhanging lip, I get 1.5" to the front of the knob and 2.75" to the front edge of the oven door handle. My guys ended up cutting the drywall off behind the range to slide it back in as far as it could go. And I still can't open the drawer on my blind base corner fully. The range isn't immediately at the corner either...there's a 9" wide tray base between it and the blind base corner.

Hope this helps.

Thank you, thank you, melissastar!! (I knew someone here would come through for me. :) ) I will plot this out on graph paper and see if the wall can be moved far enough back so that I can fully open the drawer on the blind base corner. (Same configuration as yours. I just yesterday realized that this would be a problem...) Congrats on owning the CP. This is the part of my new kitchen that I'm MOST excited about!

YOur welcome fouramblues. Just remembered something else that might save you a bit of grief. My criminally idiotic GC and his plumbers never looked at the range even though it was sitting in my dining room throughout the entire renovation. So they installed the gas line to it up through the floor, which they said is "normal". Turns out the gas line for the Capital should come in through the wall, a few inches up from the floor. Make sure you have them look at the specs before the rough-in.

Hope you enjoy it!

The range has to stick out! You cannot recess it into the cabinetry by moving a wall back. That's a safety issue. You need at least a 15" cabinet between a BBC and range to be able to access the drawer of a BBC. Really, 36 EZR corner is so much more suitable next to a range, even though it does have some limitations next to the depth as well. But at least you can almost open the door of it all the way!

melissastar, thanks also for the tip on the gas line. "Criminally idiotic" isn't a phrase you want to hear applied to your GC. I'm sorry you had to deal with that, and sure hope I don't have to! Time will tell, as we're starting next month.

live_wire_oak, thanks so much for your concern. But I wasn't really clear: I'm not going to recess the range, just move a wall back and str-e-e-e-tch the cabinetry on the perpendicular wall so that the drawer completely clears the range knobs. That will mean a good bit of dead space, and I have to weigh that con against the con of having a lazy susan instead which would circumvent the whole issue. (The lazy susans in my current kitchen are the bane of my existence, and I swore I'd never have another one. But reality has a way of making us compromise...) But one pro of moving the wall is that it restores the proper aisle width that the range was going to eat into. The range pictured here is short by about 4".

LWO...Now I'm a little concerned. What do you mean you can't recess the range? Is there some danger in snuggling the back of it up to the studs without the drywall there?

Fouram...If you're making compromises, you CAN always make the compromise of a limited top drawer. In my case, the back counter (with the range on it) is 2" deeper than normal, and as I mentioned, the drywall is cut out behind the range. I particularly like this because I didn't like that little oven vent thing sticking up. So I had a niche built into the wall above the range, with a soapstone shelf put on it. The soapstone extends out over the top of that vent gizmo (which vents forward, not up, so the airflow isn't impeded.)

Then the drawer is cut a bit short of full-depth in any case, in order to accommodate slots cut into the back of a butcherblock countertop above for knife storage. And I use the drawer to store my food saver (which is infrequently used) in the back and in the front are aluminum foil, plastic wrap, ziploc bags, etc. I can easily access all of them without opening the drawer all the way. Should I NEED to get the drawer out, I can do so by temporarily popping off one knob on the range. The door of the blind base corner cabinet swings to the left and clears the oven handle easily, as does the magic corner organizer inside it.

Should you decide to compromise with a lazy susan, be sure to look into what's called a super susan....essentially two independently turning susans...one on the floor of the cabinet and the other on a fixed shelf above. The hinged cabinet door is still a PITA, but the susans themselves are awesome...huge storage space and easy access to everything. No poles!

I think the remark about recessing the range has to do with the fact that the door opening is designed to be forward of the cabinetry. It's a fire hazard to have the door inset into wood cabinetry on each side.

Oh, melissastar, your range area is beautiful, and I love those hand-painted tiles! Thanks for being a case study for me. Looks like I'll be moving a wall back 4" to fit in the stove, and no lazy Susan - hooray! Though I did have a look at the super Susan idea, and it didn't look bad.