It is important that they use a high quality paint and most pros do, but the problem is that there are so many high quality paints out there. The key is that they use the top of the line for whatever brand they are fond of. Painters that shop at the big boxes, ask you to buy the paint or claim that they do not care what paint gets used are the ones that you want to steer clear of. A real pro painter has established relationships with real paint stores, knows what paint he likes to use and comes prepared to each estimate ready to educate you as to why he likes what he likes.

I really prefer they use a high quality paint and I feel funny just asking that generic question and not requesting a certain brand. Also hate to insult them and act like whatever they normally choose to use is not good paint.

No reason to feel funny about it. It's not insulting. You're hiring someone to work on, in your house.

You get to decide what products are used on your own home -- not a contractor you're paying a wage to. Guaranteed no one cares about your house as much as you do.

Instruct them of the terms of the job. If you have a high quality paint you're sure of and fond of the palette to go with, you absolutely get to call the shots. A really good painter will probably have a preference on brands, but clients who are willing and wanting to pay for the better brands can be a breath of fresh air for them as well.

There's plenty of people who want the cheapest price with no regard for the consequences that goes with that option.

Pick your paint. Find a painter who wants to work for you under your terms. Write into the contract "No Substitutions" on product without your approval. If you're going to be around on paint day, let them know at time of contract signing that you will want to inspect the cans when they crack 'em and approve per product and color specs before they proceed.

And you need to specify in the contract what you expect - removing switch plates, use of a primer, number of coats, pre-cleaning the walls, spray vs roll vs brush. If you want it done a certain way, the contract needs to say that. The standard contract the painter hands you may or may not be detailed enough.

Thanks everyone, no idea what brand of paint is a good brand? Anyone care to recommend one? How important is priming?? My walls are a flat paint right now, and clean. I just want some imperfections fixed and an eggshell finish used (I have a toddler and figured the walls would look cleaner that way)

It may depend on where you live. Certain areas of the country may have regional brands that painters use and swear by. In the midwest, I'll use Grahams, Muralo and C2. I also use a lot of Benjamin Moore. Pittsburgh, ICI and Sherwin Williams are all good paints as well. Priming is never a bad idea, but you will find that most painters will recommend two total coats....could be one coat primer and one coat finish or two finish coats with no primer. The absolute best system to use would be one coat primer and two finish coats.

The painters I've talked to use nothing but Benjamin Moore although just about everything else is available in this area.

You may want to consider getting an estimate from the painter for the labor portion of the job only with the understanding that you will furnish the paint. This way you can choose the quality, color, sheen, etc. of the paint yourself. To eliminate possible misunderstandings be sure to get a written contract. True professional painters will have contracts to protect you as well as them. You will find that most all name brand paint manufacturers will offer different qualities of paint. Spend a few more dollars and stay with the top of the line with whatever brand you choose. You will not regret it a few years down the road.

Our painter found BM hard to work with in that he found it hard to "cut in" because it's thicker. I was so surprised because I love painting with it and have had great success.

I think he watered down for the corners to cut into the next colour. Choked me. He also asked us to get 4 cans - which we did - as he didn't know how far BM paint went. It goes a long way. We have 3 cans left! Next time I might ask what paint they like to use and then decide if I want them to use it or not.

I hired a painter that is quite willing to work with me. He normally uses Frazee, but is happy to use the Pratt & Lambert that I prefer (Accolade - top of the line). He hasn't used it much before and is impressed.

For me, choosing a painter includes finding out who, if anyone, they bring with them, do the smoke, can they work quietly (radios blaring loud jarring music get to me), and how they prep and paint.

My favorite painter works alone, does not smoke, does run marathons (Ironman!), is quiet and able to do minor repair jobs as well as paint. He also caulks everything, which I truly appreciate!

Good luck

After reading all the follow ups,I would take paint guys advice.And another I might add is most paint manufactures have different grades of paint.make sure they use the ""premium"grade.It will cover and hold up longer.

Our painter found BM hard to work with in that he found it hard to "cut in" because it's thicker. I was so surprised because I love painting with it and have had great success.
I think he watered down for the corners to cut into the next colour. Choked me. He also asked us to get 4 cans - which we did - as he didn't know how far BM paint went. It goes a long way. We have 3 cans left! Next time I might ask what paint they like to use and then decide if I want them to use it or not.

Next time I would find a new painter, this guy is a hack.Any pro would not order 4 gallons of paint when 1 will do the job.

I'm having the kitchen painted now. My contractor is the epitome of rude. I ask basic questions & he takes an attitude like I'm insulting him and rants about how he knows what he is doing and is trying to do a good job but I am not letting him, etc. He was recommended by a cabinet maker general contractor who is top notch and nothing like him. I was in a bind trying to get this done before x-mas. I'v already had several run-ins with him and we're only half way done. Talk about Stress!!

I assume you have already established how you're going to pay him - cash, check, cashier's check, credit card, etc.

The next time he cops a 'tude with you, you could try this:

Immediately and very calmly change the subject by interjecting a reaffirmation of those terms, i.e. "We agreed that I can pay you with a personal check. Is that correct?" Let him answer that question and walk away.

A subtle reminder that you're his customer might be all it takes to help readjust his attitude. If not, take a 'this too shall pass attitude', vent when and where it's safe to help you get thru his mantrums and focus on you're half way done and once he's gone you won't ever have to deal with him again.

Not taking sides here, but coming from a Decorative Artist/Painter, when I am working on a job I do not want to be interrupted by conversation with the homeowner; questions or just general conversation. Later after job is complete that would be fine but during the process, no. It takes my time and I don't/can/won't be distracted from my work. I have this noted in the contract they sign as well.

I would hope basic questions would have taken place before a job contract is signed.

Again, I don't want to sound as if I am standing up for the painter/contractor but maybe you might ask him questions after he is through for the day or ask him when would be a good time to discuss some questions.

Thanks for presenting both views. I'm trying to keep an open mind. Today things went much better. See, the initial bid was given over 2 months ago and since that much time had elapsed, I was basically going over what and how things were going to be done so we were both on the same page. I never interrupted the work, I actually approached him the 1st day before they started the prep. His remark to me was "I know what I'm doing". Which I thought was very inappropriate & rude. I let him know I was not questioning his ability as he came well recommended. Today he apologized & things are much smoother. Two more days and we'll be done. Can't wait. I'll be posting the before and afters. Thanks again!

That's great things are going much smoother now. I imagine sometimes "we all" have our moments. I know it probably was a shock that someone would come out with a remark like "I know what I'm doing".

Sometimes even the best of us don't like to be questioned with our work. I do agree with you that statement from your painter was "out of line" and glad he apologized to you.
Hope all turns out great for you.

aleighjc: Don't know if you're still seeking paint recommendations, but I'd definitely go with Sherwin Williams. Most of the painters I recently interviewed to have my entire interior done all said that was their preference. (Except for one who likes BM, yet was willing to go w/SW if I wanted.)

Also, w/a toddler, my priority would be to use a paint that was either as low VOC (volatile organic compounds) or NO VOC. SW puts out "Duration", which btw is their top of the line product and is low VOC and "Harmony" which is NO VOC. Both come in the finish you want. Eggshell/satin or low-lustre are some of the names each uses. Remember that one line's eggshell is similar to another's low-lustre or satin. Go to a paint store that carries the brand you ultimately choose and look at examples of each sheen. Anything w/a sheen will clean up better than flat. "Duration" is especially known to be very washable. Bear in mind that you get what you pay for w/paint. SW's "Duration", for example runs around $43 a gal around here as compared w/their other top line "Superpaint" or "Cashmere" for around $36-$38, which are excellent lines as well.

I'm painting my doors myself (to save some $$$) and using the "Duration" because of its durability and washability since doors get a lot of wear and tear.

Good luck.