Preferred icemaker supply line method

18 years ago

Starting to collect bids for a kitchen remodel and I've received some varying feedback (looks of horror) from the initial contractors as to the state of my frig icemaker supply line. Currently there is some sort of white tubing with compression fittings running through the back of several cabinets. This seems to be acceptable practice from what I've read.

If I want to specify a certain method for the supply line, what should it be? There will be new cabs going in, and I want to minimize risk of short and long term leakage.

Thank you.

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Comments (4)

rjoh878646
18 years ago
soft copper tubing. It comes in rolls. Use compression fittings to plumb it up. Do not use a saddle valve on the cold water pipe. use a valve like the one under your lavatory or the toilet.
User
18 years ago
If you are planning on installing a Reverse Osmosis (RO) unit for drinking, cooking, and icemaker then copper is not the tubing of choice from the RO to the icemaker.

RO water is aggressive in the sense that (practically) every thing but the "H" and the "O" has been removed from the water and it will leach copper from the tubing leading to the ultimate failure of the tubing.

If an RO during the remodel or you plan one in the future then the white opaque polyethylene (PE) tubing approved for potable water is the way to go and you can use the really neat "John Guest" reusable push fittings instead of the one-time use compression ones.

If you don't plan on an RO then copper is fine although the PE tubing is easier to use.
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thull
18 years ago
I'm a new convert to the John Guest fittings after using them putting in a couple of point-of-use water filter/chillers in my office. That plus plastic tubing is the way to go, especially with copper as wacky expensive as it is.

That said, my mea culpa was using them when changing out the water valve on my fridge. The tubing had zero slack, and I thought I had it fully seated in the valve. About a month later, it started to leak and I didn't realize until a small section of the oak floor started cupping. Still waiting to see if it lays back down after drying out.

However you attach to the cold water line (I'd pick hard pipe over tapped), you want a cutoff that you can get to. We have a box inset in the wall behind the fridge, but if you have to run tube through the cabinets, as long as it's protected from damage, that should work.
User
18 years ago
"However you attach to the cold water line (I'd pick hard pipe over tapped), you want a cutoff that you can get to".

Always a good idea to provide shut-offs for service or emergencies...

There are also nifty little red "C" clips to lock the John Guest fittings so they can't accidentally be released.