bberger,
Could it be a hydrostatic valve rather than a plug?
Plug could mean the drain was leaking at some point.
Some sump pots have more holes than necessary.
These are possibilities and I would suggest that you locate drain line and test for leaks while the pool is drained. Good luck.

It may be a valve. It's kind of flat (no square knob for removal) on top and the water is trickling out one of the sides. Would that be normal ops for a hydrostatic valve? The drain line looks OK, however I have yet to check it for leaks. Thanks

bberger,
Plastic hydrostatic valves are spring activated in the closed position. You should be able to see a rubber O-ring at the edge and you should be able to lift the top by grasping the edges with your fingers. I would suggest replacing the valve before you refill the pool. Once they leak it is better to replace. You may have a little ground water working from the bottom to cause the valve to leak. Good luck.

It is a hydrostatic valve and it is doing what it is suppossed to do by relieving the pressure. I would leave it alone unless the oring is damaged, it could be glued in place or you might be able to remove it. Its a threaded connection.

OK. I've just seen a pic of a hydrostatic valve and that is what I have. I'm hesitant to try and remove it but how else will I know if the o-ring is ok. What if it starts gushing? If I push down on the top should it stop flowing? Will the pressure of pool water close it when I refill the pool? There is some plaster on top of one edge of it as the PB guys were sloppy when the pool was built (30 yrs. ago) Thanks in advance. Bruce

bberger,
These valves tend to get grit in them and leak. It's 30 years old? An O-ring of that age in any application is prone to fail.
Replace it or remove it and plug the hole with a threaded plug. It won't start gushing. There is no way to be sure it doesn't leak when you fill the pool(remember it's 30 years old).
The plaster contractor can replace it easily. Good luck.

quote" remove it and plug the hole with a threaded plug. "quote

Remove it asap and don't place the plug into it until seconds before filling.

Berger, your correct the pressure from the pool water is what pushes the existing plus into place.

I don't like those contraptions because your subsoil may be very dry earth beneath the pool. When the o-ring gives up it's seal your leaching water out of the pool into the dirt beneath it.
IMO if your replastering you should drill some holes through the gunite also.

See ya,
Kelly

If you replace the valve with a plug you risk floating your pool. That would be a disaster. The weight of the water in the pool keeps the valve closed. Rub the oring with your finger and if your finger comes up black, the oring is shot and you should replace it. The new oring will ship over the top of the valve easily. The plasterer should have a pump that will sit in the drain pot to remove the water while plastering.

Thanks for the input guys. The pool has been empty for about a week while I do some plumbing to it. Although we haven't had much rain in my area (Socal) lately, I think the water table is relatively high here. I am concerned about floating the pool so I'm leaning toward replacing the o-ring or the valve. I'm currently pumping about 20-30 gallons a day out from the bottom.

Remove the hydrostatic. If you have a high water table this is the time to find out how high before your pool pops out of the ground. Keep pumping the water out if it keeps filling. Before plaster, if the main drain is not staying dry, install a standpipe in the hydrostatic hole. When ready to fill, remove the standpipe and install a NEW hydrostatic valve. If the main drain stays dry after removing the valve, you could replace the valve with a plug but I am always very leery of doing this. Usually if the last guy bought a hydrostatic valve he had a reason.

OK. Removed hydrostatic. (not easy) Installed standpipe and after 2 days the water level has stabilized at 39in. above the bottom of my 8 1/2 ft. deep pool. New valve on order. One final question: The cavity below the valve appears to have sand/silt in it. Not enough flow to bring it to the surface but I'm concerned that it could float up and interfere with the valve seal at some point in the future. Should I try and vacuum it out and put some pea gravel in there? Thanks so much for all your help. Bruce

Thats a pretty high water table. I hope you are allowing the water to release into the pool. If the standpipe is too tall you could still float the pool. I think you should remove the standpipe until you are ready to plaster. There is probably a collection tube plumbed into the bottom of the drain that goes into a gravel sump. It would not hurt to vac out the sand/silt.

I agree, take out the standpipe until you are ready to prep the pool for plaster. Is there a sump next to the pool where you could pump the groundwater from? whenever we build a pool in an area with a high water table we install a 12" pipe into the gravel below the pool so we can drop a submersible pump down and pump the ground water away, keeping the shell dry.

There might be a capped off line near the equipment that goes to a gravel sump under the pool. It sounds like you should be in good shape. Good job getting out the old valve.

I've already removed the standpipe and don't plan on reinstalling it until plaster day. I'm sumping the water out daily. I've removed the decking and dug up the entire perimeter of the pool to prepare for pavers. Didn't see any extra line to a sump under the shell. That would have been nice to have. Thanks, Bruce

Hi,
I am draining my pool and need to pull the plugs plastered in the floor. Anthony sylvan says the have a specially made tool but will not come to my house, let me use it or let me buy one! It is not a valve .I need help!