txmomoftwo,

Order the tftestkit now.

Do the pool school and read the related content. The more you learn, the less the you'll spend in upkeep.

You've made it this far. Brushing with the skimmers off while brushing and an hour there after 2x/day for the 1st week and daily for the next 2-3 weeks and testing the pH isn't hard. Just don't use a metal bristled brush. Start adding chlorine slowly after the 1st week.

You'll do fine. It sure is an exciting time when you see the light at then end of the tunnel! TFP and GW peeps are here for you.

Scott

Okay, the kit is on it's way! What type of brush do I need? What size? What type of pole is good to use for brushing? Any advise on other must haves for the first couple of weeks? I have no clue what I'm going to need yet. I need to carve out some time tomorrow to do the pool school.

16' Pool pole
Standard white bristled pool brush. If the PB doesn't provide one, get one with a metal back. The plain blue plastic ones tend to snap after a while.

Scott

You will need to put your pool into an acid bath for a week before starting up your equipment. If you still need a start-up person, try Freddy at Kings Pools or Rick with Aquatic Pool Solutions.

There are multiple ways to start up new plaster - womanowned began the outline of one - but why not use the method described by the product manufacturer?

http://sgm.cc/download/installationmanual-DiamondBrite.pdf

Scott, woman, & lbridges, thanks for the advice! I just read that entire installation manual. I feel sorry for the poor plaster guys now b/c I'm going to be out there with that manual in hand asking if they are going to start on the shady side, taking pictures of all of the batch numbers & asking how they are going to mix the bags.

I could never do this for a living. It stresses me out having to manage other people's work. It is not my nature to be such a micromanager & that is what this project really calls for.

Today, I went to look at a pool that the plaster guys did in DB French Grey two years ago and it looked AWESOME! So excited to get this all done & to get my pool up and running!

Did the French Grey look a bit green to you? I kind of like the FG, but I don't want green.

Lascatx: No, it had no green in it at all! It was really blue & beautiful! I don't like green either. Found a great plaster company too. Their prices are awesome! Did you find someone to do your remodel yet?

So we plaster tomorrow. I'm so excited and nervous at the same time. I've done A LOT of research & this is what I've come up with for start-up. Here is my tentative plan. Please critique! Offer any advice, suggestions, tried & true, etc . . .

1. As pool fills, add 1 qt. of sequestering agent when it is half way filled. Add another qt. when it is completely filled.
2. Start the circulation system as soon as possible using the main drain line. Do not start
the system until the water level is above the return inlets. Circulate the pool continuously
for the first 3 days.(Our neighbor/friend is coming to help with this). I'm SO NERVOUS about this part!! I don't want anything to be wrong when we try to start it all up!
3. Day 1: test and record chlorine, pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and temperature levels. Adjust pH to 7.2 -7.4 and the Total Alkalinity to 100 PPM. Dissolve all chemicals in water first and allow sufficient time for each chemical to be fully dispersed before adding others. Do not add chlorine or calcium chloride.
4. Brush the entire surface twice each day for the first 3 days. I went and got the 16' pole & metal back 20" brush. Clean the filter as needed.
5. Day 2: test again and continue brushing.
6. Adjust all the chemistry to the following levels:
Free chlorine: 1.0 - 3.0 PPM pH: 7.4 Total Alkalinity: 120 PPM Calcium Hardness: 200 PPM* Stabilizer: 30 PPM
7. Adjust the pump timer to normal operating hours.
8. Continue brushing 2 x daily until no plaster dust is coming off of the walls.

Okay, so I know this is not the acid bath start up, but the diamond brite website says that the acid bath is the least effective of the three. Have you all experienced their recommendations to be wrong? I have all of the materials & info. to do an acid start if I change my mind. Is the acid bath really the most effective with Diamond Brite French Grey?

txmomoftwo,

With the 1st week, expect the curing plaster to raise the pH of the water fairly regularly. You will need Muriatic acid to lower it to 7.2 to 7.3 as your target. This will require daily testing for the 1st week.

When brushing and for a couple hours there after, run off the bottom drain only. Always brush towards it. Brushing twice a day for the first 5 to 10 days, depending on the water temp will be needed, then once a day will suffice.

Check the filter pressure and backwash after the pressure rises some. If you have a 2 speed or single speed, this will be a 10 lb. rise from the starting pressure. If you have a variable speed, it will likely be a bit less, depending on the speed.

Don't worry about the adding Alk increaser, aka baking soda. It will just make you use more acid at the start of the cure.

Being in Texas usually means you can expect to have hard water. You will know when you test your fill water. Keep it in mind. Letting the pH get above 7.8 with hard water can lead to scale formation. The pool calculator takes this into consideration. It's easy to use and highly recommended.

I suggest keeping a log book that lets you track before and after test results, chemical additions, etc...

I hope you received you test kit. Test your fill water. It gives you a practice run and lets you where you're starting from.

Pick up some rubber Playtex dish washing gloves and a clean bucket. If you have a Lowes near you, get the Muriatic there. There have been reports on TFP that it has fewer impurities such as iron than Home Depot's. Next to or near the MA is a buffered MA that works fine, is less reactive to organics like skin but costs more. It will still react with the decking if splashed so the same amount of care is required.

Please, always remember to add acid to water. It reduces the chances of strong acid splash out. I use a measuring cup. After using it, rinse it and the capped MA bottle in the pool and store them safely away where they won't get kicked accidentally.

Using unscented bleach after the 1st week is suggested. I like Clorox as it has the fewest impurities, is normally a stable 6% solution and the cost delta isn't big enough to switch to a store brand. Pouring it in in front of a return will disperse it. There is no need to premix it like dichlor or cal-hypo and it doesn't add extra calcium or CYA.

If you have a salt cell, wait three to four weeks before salting. The same holds true for vacuuming. Wait. This first month is when the finish is at it's weakest. The brushing will help move the organic debris to prevent staining.

After the 1st month, the plaster will be hard enough to permit pool sweep use without having to worry about wheel track marks and manual vacuuming won't pose a delamination threat.

Please note that your plaster will continue to raise the pH for about a year, less as the months roll by. If you have a salt cell, it will also raise the pH. After several months, you notice that you will not need as much MA as you used to use.

It's a lot to keep in mind but it's not hard. I know you will do fine and will enjoy your pool and all that goes with it for many years to come.

Scott

Scott - your contributions to this site are great. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Your start-up recommendations are great and the explanations of why you do these things are very easy to understand.

Doug

Scott, thanks SO MUCH! I appreciate you! I printed this out and have read it over about 10 times already. :) I did get my test kit in a few days ago.

They are plastering right now and I'm just as nervous as I was when I went into labor! LOL Who knew that I would care so much about a big concrete hole in my backyard?

Question: Pool School says to adjust the chemicals on day 3. You suggested to add clorine after the 1st week. So I should adjust all of the other chemicals on the 3rd day except for the chlorine level? Does it affect the plaster negatively to add chlorine before then?

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you for your help!

Just wanted to mention that we have been told Woodlands water tends to be soft and that you generally have to add calcium. I know I've always heard that we have hard water in this part of the world, but our water quality here (and the taste) are better than surrounding areas. When we were testing our tap water hardness for the aquarium we used to have, and also for an appliance that required a water setting, we were surprised that the water was softer than we expected.

Just be sure to test and don't be surprised if you test, retest and don't get the results you expected. Hope the plaster is going well today.

The woodlands water is based primarily on water from the evangeline and jasper aquifers and does tend to the soft side.
It does contain some silt and manganese as evidenced by my whole house water filter, I will post a pic of my filter when I get a chance.

You can look up woodlands mud district water reports here.
http://www.wjpa.net/

lascatx: It's going really well! They are doing a fantastic job so far! They have like 4 different sets of shoes. Pretty neat. Right now, they are wearing the cloth bottom ones with white socks. They are really smoothing it out and I'm excited to see that it is all one uniform color right now.

Our water is pretty awesome here. When my family comes in to visit, they always comment on the water. We also have a water softener so I'll be sure to test the fill water tonight.

txmomoftwo that's awesome glad they are doing your plaster!

I usually hold off on any chlorine till it gets to 1X brushing/day. Then I start to use Clorox. Start at 1 pp, for a day or two then go to 3.

Add some sequesterant, specifically Jack's Purple Stuff. It will prevent the manganese from falling out of solution. Thanks to goyom for the heads up about the manganese.

Keep on the pH, daily for the first week. Use the calculator to determine the amount of acid to bring the pH to the 7.2 to 7.3 range. You will be amazed at the amount of acid the pool will need. It will settle, I promise. After two or three weeks, when the dust starts to ease when brushing, check the calcium hardness level. If it's soft fill water, it may be low.

Pre-dissolve it in small batches in a 5 gallon pail. No more than 2-5 lbs per bucket of water. It will make the water quite warm. We use a less pure form to melt ice in the Winter. Stir it well. Twice. Then pour around the pool, mostly in the deep end. If there is some in the bottom of the bucket, add more water and stir it again. I use a wood or fiberglass handle to stir.

By the time you are done, you will be glad it doesn't break down in the sun. The only way calcium leaves is by dilution. It's like salt.

Scott

Okay so the pool is filled almost to the steps. I just tested the PH and it was right around the 8.2 mark. Do I add acid tonight or wait until the morning when it's filled? The water is not to the returns yet.

OK that PH is consistent, mine was exactly the same at the end of the fill.

I cannot advise further, as my pool is plaster with quartz, and we may have a different start up procedure.

My PB took care of the first 4 days. What does the install documentation say to do with your finish?
I wish you the best.

goyom: Thank you! Your very simple question was extraordinarily helpful last night while I was in panic mode. "What does the install documentation say to do?"

After rechecking the Diamond Brite start up recommendations, it does say to wait until the pool is completely filled.

We have worked really hard the past few weeks and I was so worried last night that I was not doing the right thing.

Tested the water last night before I went to bed. Here are the results:
17300 gallons
pH 8.2
TA 330
CH 70

The calculator says to add 1 gallon 3 cups of acid. From what I've read, I only worry about the acid today & just continue to test & record for the next couple of days while brushing & keep the pH at 7.2-7.3...right?

BTW, The finish is BEAUTIFUL and the water color, even though there are no chemicals in it, is already blue and beautiful! I just love it! So excited that it is only going to get prettier!

HA! glad I could help.
Yes, test and record and keep PH where it says to.

Mine was 7.2-7.6 in my startup kit.

I had to keep adding acid daily, and still adding every couple of days almost 2 weeks later, apparently the curing process generates a very alkaline residue that will push PH up.

txmom - where are the pictures of your beautiful water? When you have a chance, please post. Thanks!

The guys are here doing the final clean up: taking off all of the form boards, leveling out the yard, removing the massive loads of trash & debris, and they are going to acid wash the deck(last). I made sure that they PROMISED not to get any in the pool b/c the last thing that I want going on my new plaster is flagstone stained acid wash. He showed me exactly where they are going to start & go outward & assured me multiple times that they will not get any in the pool or on the coping. I'm going to stand out there with my protective glasses just to make sure. :)

Zugg: here you go :D These were taken this morning before the sun really came out from behind the trees. I'll take more later to compare the full sun pics to the early morning pics.
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Dont worry, the acid wash will not hurt the coping, if anything it will bring out the color more. That is actually what they use to clean the tile and coping.

Just make sure its all well rinsed. Looks great.

You're right - the color is beautiful. I can't wait to see the additional pictures you'll be posting. I've made a commitment to myself that when my pool is completed (probably near the end of June) I will continue posting pics with progress updates regarding landscaping, etc. I absolutely love this website, but so often people stop posting after their pool is finished. It would be really nice to see the entire yard after completion. I think it would be a good idea to have a thread labeled "Before and After" so that people can post their - well - before and after pics (before meaning before any digging began and after meaning after the pool and landscaping are totally finished).

One of the guys we have talked to was not big on the French Grey, but I am liking what I am seeing. Please do post more photos.