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Staining new ipe deck - Cabot's SPF?

21 years ago

I'm about to have a new ipe deck and wanted to properly stain and seal it to best preserve the color. After reading many threads in this forum, I chose Cabot's ATO, but when I called Cabot's, they strongly recommended their new SPF product, preceded by a SPF pretreatment. Their main objection was that new ipe would not adequately absorb their oil-based ATO, but damp, pretreated ipe would better accept their water-based SPF product.

Does anyone have experience with Cabot's new SPF product? I favor the Sunray tint. Thanks.

Comments (9)

  • 21 years ago

    It's an acrylic that forms a very peelable skin. My recommendation is to still go with the ATO. After my experimentation with the SPF, a mix of Sunray:Coco Shell 3:1 is a very nice color.

  • 21 years ago

    Thanks. I saw earlier that you prefer ATO, but I wonder why the Cabet folks recommend the SPF. I don't want a peelable skin.

  • 21 years ago

    The SPF recommendation is for getting this product to move off the shelves. Go with the ATO, and remember IPE will not hold alot and you can over apply which will give you shiney spots. What doesn't penetrate in 10 minutes needs to be wiped off with a rag, preferrably a micro fiber type.

    reed's deck and fence care

  • 21 years ago

    I imagine that the nature of ipe had much to do with it. Ipe doesn't really hold any type of penerating sealer for extended periods. The SPF might last longer but at an expensive premium. Eventually it will peel and it will need to be stripped. Even if it doesn't peel and you maintain it with additional coats, it will stil need to be stripped at some point. This is where your nightmare and high cost of removal will occur.

  • 21 years ago

    Go with oils!

    I had some bad scratches recently, and in a few minutes just wiping them with oil, and wiping off, it came right off! Oil is serviceable, and it keeps the dark tones nice!

    Just a happy penofin user!

  • 21 years ago

    Note on the applicator.

    I am using a manmade cloth called microfiber - bought a bundle of cleaning rags made of this material. A little sticky to the feel, a zillion little fibers sticking out, something like velco in a way. Anyway, staining or wood finishing -- great applicator as RDFC said above. Covers everything and doesn't drip, wipes very clean.

  • 20 years ago

    I just want to be sure I got this right, as I am in the process of getting a new Ipe deck installed.

    Upon completion of the deck, I should clean it with "Restore-a-Deck" (Step 1: Cleaner and then Step 2: Brightener), and then apply ATO as a sealer?

    Should this be done immediately or should I wait a few months after installation?

  • 20 years ago

    I say leave the wood exposed for a month unless you have a party or barbecue or other deadline you need to have the deck ready for.

  • 20 years ago

    Ok..you guys are great & I finally had to register rather than just lurk! My ironwood w/cable deck was just completed & I'm trying to make a gameplan for keeping it dark. Oiling it often is ok for me...stripping is not.

    Do you recommend leaving the wood exposed for a month if you just plan to oil it too (penofin)? My contractor keeps telling me it should be done immediately so I've done the posts & rails but not the decking.

    My rails came beautifully beveled from the lumber yard with a lovely surface. However, my contractor sanded down the plugs in various places so the oil is absorbing unevenly. (I obviously found this website one day too late!) Is it best to keep oiling it, let it rest for a month or have my contractor sand the full length so it will all have the same absorbtion rate? I've searched the site but can't find a clear answer to this. Thanks!