Careers4u,
I use a plastic slip joint on top of the beam as well as the water stop joint that your contractor is omitting. I like the water stop because it covers the top edge of the tile and does help keep water from moving to the back of the beam. I also always caulk the joint between the deck and the tile when I remove the water stop after a re tile. I don't think you will like the small joint (crack) that will be visable. You can always caulk it in the future.
It's hard to argue success if he hasn't had any problems. I just don't think this is a good construction practice.

Are those the styrofoam forms? If so, I would stay away. Our guy had so many problems with them. We didn't have our water line tile in before the coping, so he didn't use those plastic things. Anyway, those forms couldn't completely support the load of the concrete in some areas, especially on the raised spa. He had to keep cutting 2x4 the right hight to support them in areas they were sagging at. I've seen contractors use soaked 2x4's with cuts in the and they seemed to do a much better job.

quote" Our guy had so many problems with them. We didn't have our water line tile in before the coping, so he didn't use those plastic things. "quote

The reason your guy had problems is because these forms are designed to be used on beams that already have tile installed.

quote" Anyway, those forms couldn't completely support the load of the concrete in some areas, especially on the raised spa. He had to keep cutting 2x4 the right hight to support them in areas they were sagging at. "quote

This is probably because he didn't use concrete nails into the beam with tie wire to them to help support the pressure of the concrete bearing against them.

I've used these forms forever and have never had problems with them. I always use plastic, a starter shingle, or wax paper over the beam to keep the concrete separate from the beam and use the water stop.

quote" I just don't think this is a good construction practice. "quote

I agree with this completely.

I'm not saying your man is wrong, I just wouldn't do it his way.
I'm curious, do you have short deck dowels sticking up from the beam into the new deck and steel tied there going around the pool above the beam or is he just pouring the new concrete above it with no beam fastening and reinforcement running the perimeter of the pool?

See ya,
Kelly

The forms are placed as instructed in the directions with the nails around the gunite and the steel ties going through the forms and around the nails. The only thing he did not do was place the plastic tile guards in the space between the form and the tile. Instead, he has run a strip of thick, opaque tape over this gap to ensure the deck doesn't touch the beam. He says the tile strip is for asthetic purposes only, which I know is not true, but that he'll caulk the joint for us, though. I just want to make sure he uses the polyuerethane caulk and not silicone. (This guy is a bit sick of my questions at this point and won't be happy to hear from me again.)

I feel like I should trust my contractors, but it is a little scary when you see something not done that you have heard should be. I've talked with two of his customers with decks more than seven years old who are very happy and no tile issues, so I guess I need to just relax. Thanks for your help, as always. I'm hoping we'll be done next week!

>polyuerethane caulk and not silicone
Why not silicone? What are the pros and cons of each? What are some recommended products and sources? My PB is suggesting silicone between the cantilever coping and tile and based on my experience with silicone in shower stalls I am concerned about 1) life, 2) repair, 3) mildew.