I cut my binding fabric 2" wide for smaller quilts - sew it on double thickness with 1/4" seam, as usual, and it winds up being about 3/8" wide or less. My bindings are narrower than they were when I first started quilting. Even large quilts start out with only 2 1/2" strips. I also don't use bias strips anymore - only straight-of-grain strips. I didn't like the way the bias strips had a "ripple" to them, and none of my quilts will ever get hard enough use to warrant the bias bindings.

As with any quilt, of any size, I use a binding that is in keeping with the color and size of the end project... I don't bother doubling the binding fabric, as I do with quilts I plan to use as quilts.....there is no wear to the edges of a hanging, so, why waste fabric. I'd probably cut mine mine
1 1/2", for 1/2" binding per side + 1/4" hems....and, I NEVER use bias cut bindings.....unless you plan a curving border edge, bias serves no purpose...straight of grain is better, I think.

Red,
I do mine like scraphappy said. I do cut them narrow and I do fold them because I like the finished look better.
Happy sewing.
Sally

I used store bought black bias tape for my printed bear panel hanging since I was too lazy to make my own black binding and it was a practice piece. For my watercolor WISP I'm using a thin green inner border, a dark blue outer border, and making straight grain tape in the green for the binding.

BTW I was surprised to find that one of the two packages of black bias tape was really a very dark brown. I took the trouble to piece that around the top and one side while the black went around the other side and the bottom. You can't tell there's a difference, but no more purchased tape for me.

Sharon C.

I am in the process of finishing up a wall hanging and I will use a double fold straight grain of 2 1/4" but that is just my preference. I do prefer to work with the straight grain of fabrics because it is easier. Anything smaller then 2" gives me headaches, LOL!

I think there are dye lot or batch numbers on the Wrights bias binding or any of their packages. I can't check it out because I don't have any at the moment.

I haven't cut any bindings for some time now; too many UFOs/WIPs. Right now I've got 'em stacked 4 quilts thick on my design wall. But I DID finish one this year a crib-size art quilt, had cut the binding a while back.

'Til recently, I used very high-loft, thick poly batts, I didn't know better & I liked the more "poufy" look. Also I haven't made bed quilts, all just art quilts that I use as wall hangings.

All that said, I tend to cut 3" bindings & fold them in half, so they're double for strength. I'd guess, my earlier ones ended up as being about 1/2" on each, front & back. Mine are all cut on the straight grain, I have neither the patience nor need for bias cut bindings.

Lately I must be cutting a bit narrower as my binding are finishing more a 1/4" each front & back, but I still underfold them on the back by about a 1/4" & 'cause I'm self-taught, I hem stitch them.

I need to learn this less visible applique-type stitch I see other quilters seem to use on tacking down the back of their bindings.

Something in me is just not OK about using pre-made, purchased bias tape bindings.

Gee, I just do my wall hanging bindings the same as for a bed quilt. 1 and 3/4" strips, double fold binding. Hand tack to the back.

For my very first quilt, I used the pre-made seam binding, but never again--for a quilt, anyway! I still use the pre-made binding once in a while. Like when I want to whip out a quick denim apron for a gift.

I make my binding as I would for a quilt. I always cut 2 1/4 inch bias binding. I make the continuous binding that we've talked about here on the forum. I've never had any trouble with it rippling. It may be wasting fabric, but it's not much. All my projects will some day end up in someone's garage sale or flea market, but I've enjoyed the time making them.
Carolyn

I do wall hangings the same way I do bed quilts or lap quilts. 2-1/2" double fold, straight of grain. I find it really difficult to work with a binding narrower than 2 1/2".