u need your FC to be between 5-10 and keep it there until algae is gone ,then keep it around 3
your CYA is on the low side,raise it to 60-70
PH is on the low side but thats good for right now as it makes your chlorine more efficient
brush,brush
clean filter
run filter 48 hours
clean filter again
recheck chems

CYA of 40 in a non SWG is perfect.

Chlorine works best with the pH between 7.2 and 7.8 . Outside of that, it drops off in effectiveness.

Keeping with FC between 8 and 10% of the CYA level is recommended.

Use bleach to augment the tabs. Using dichlor will raise the stabilizer (CYA), requiring a higher FC level. Cal-Hypo will add calcium you don't need as that level is fine.

Plug your numbers into the pool calculator and see what it says. Its at the link below.

Scott

Here is a link that might be useful: The Pool Calculator

The lower the pH gets the more effective and reactive it gets. A pH of 6.8 the water level will have a higher ORP (oxidization reduction potential) than water with pH of 7.4-7.6.

60-70 is way to high for CYA, 50 really should be the max that you add CYA to. I have most of my commercial operators shoot for no higher than 40 otherwise, we see massive drops in the ORP and have to significantly increase the chlorine levels to compensate for it.

I'd also see if you can have the water checked for phosphates. If the phosphate levels are extremely high, the algae will have plenty of food, combined with the sunlight.

PHOSPHATES! Nobody checks them unless they have had them (or heard of them). Racket is correct-If there is a phospate buildup you will be throwing chemicals down a black hole. Easy to correct, but will drain your wallet if not corrected.

Levels below 500 ppb are usually not a significant problem.

Not keeping the FC level up in relation to the stabilizer level will allow algae to get a purchase.

Killing the algae before it gets a chance to eat is far more effective than trying to starve it.

Keep the FC up.

Check for CC levels and use them as a gauge to determine if something is eating the FC.

There are a couple different types of phosphate removers. The type that forms cottony appearing blobs on the floor are a nuisance, especially if it's the fill source that has the phosphates. The other type is filtered out, simply requiring backwashing or cartridge cleanings.

I can't remember what brands use what.

Great discussion here on TFP's forums:

http://www.troublefreepool.com/all-about-phosphates-from-jack-s-magic-t24066.html?hilit=phosphate%20remover

HTH;

Scott

Based on recommendations from here, I have been augmenting my chlorinator with a little bleach when the Chlorine levels drop a bit. My temps have gone as high as 90 degrees and are now averaging about 85 degrees and my water is chrystal clear. I also use filter socks on all skimmers and the Polaris-these take out a ton of fine dirt/organisms that I think reduce your chlorine levels. Either way the water sparkles and I feel better that all of that brown gunk is not going into the filter. This forum has been an awesome source for pool care information.

I've been keeping the FC around 5 or so for a few days, and although the algae has been reduced, it's not gone.
Should I shock the pool at this point, to really kill any algae & prevent it from getting a good hold? Otherwise, it feels like I'm just treading water, and not really moving ahead. If so, what FC should I shoot for? 10, 12?

lion1143---do you have a lot of trees? I have a ton of trees in my yard, and have just come to accept that there will always be a few needles or leaves in the pool. Are you having a lot of success with the socks? How about one of those skimmer arms? Have you tried that?

I just went through this whole Phosphate thing. Turns out that there is a lot of "snake oil" occurring with pool chemicals. I would suggest never using Phosfree unless you want a huge, sticky mess on your hands and you want to spend some time cleaning out your filter.

Go to Trouble Free Pools and learn how to properly maintain the chemistry. I thought my Intellichlor was broken but it turn out to be an algae issue that I couldn't see. The IC was just effective enough that it was keeping the algae at bay but using 100% of my chlorine which caused me to have to increase my pump time to 12 hours and run the IC at 100%.

I now have a "real" test kit, properly shocked the pool,used the overnight chlorine test to make sure all organics were dead and added the proper amount of CYA. Chlorine is now back on target and IC is back down to 50% and a pump time of 8 hours.

Chlorine / CYA Chart

Perhaps a cornerstone element of BBB is understanding the relationship between the chlorine in your pool and the stabilizer you put in to protect the chlorine from the sun. Generally, the more stabilizer, the more chlorine you need to maintain its effectiveness. The charts below are the recommended relationship.

Non -SWG Pools

CYA (Stabilizer) Minimum FC Target FC Shock FC
20 2 3 10
30 2 4 12
40 3 5 16
50 4 6 20
60 5 7 24
70 5 8 28
80 6 9 31
90 7 10 35
100 7 12 39

SWG Pools

CYA (Stabilizer) Minimum FC Target FC Shock FC
60 3 4 24
70 3 5 28
80 4 6 30

Steve,
I don't get a lot of leaves-not many trees. The socks work for all of the small stuff-gunk, millipedes, bugs, etc. I think the key is to rinse/clean them at least every other day. Otherwise that stuff is just breaking down and getting to the filter anyway. I recommend trying one sock and waiting two days-especially after some good swimming. Then take a look at the sock-yuck! All of the stuff I mentioned above is what convinced me. This won't solve your algae problem, but it should help keep your pool cleaner.

Just go to TFP and they will solve your problems.

Hahaha now I remember why I quit going here. I'm logging off.