By 'glued' do you mean 'caulked'?

I'd try using a heat gun (judiciously) around the rim of the sink. You don't want to damage the laminate but you do want to get the glue or caulk warm...while the sticky stuff is still warm, try slipping a thin bladed scraper or putty knife between the rim of the sink & the counter to separate the sink.

I'm assuming that your sink is stainless steel; I've never heard of a chrome sink which isn't to say that chrome sinks don't exit. Anyway, you can restore it easily enough by buffing it up, using a drill or grinder fitted with buffing wheels & using polishing compounds. I'm attaching a link with more info:

Here is a link that might be useful: How to Buff and Polish

This might be a dumb question, but can you select a larger sink than the current one? That might cover any damage to the laminate because you'll end up cutting that section of countertop anyway to fit the new sink.

As an extreme, you could have someone cut it out the width of the cupboard. Then inset another material into which the sink could be set.

I'm picturing butcher block, or stone, or something that compliments your laminate and the sink.

Kind of an odd idea, but I can see it in my noggin!

Thank you for your responses. Yes, the sink is a double stainless steel and the "glue" is chualk. I'm learning all this stuff.

The chaulk is not completely hard like cement but a little softer because I can put an indent into it with a screwdriver.

I'm going to keep working at it. All recomendations appreciated.

Try some of the following:

Heat gun or hair dryer, as ci_lantro suggested

utility knife (try the kind with hooked blades).

Flexible saw (known as flush-cut saw, back saw, Japan saw, dovetail saw) These have a thin flexible blade that can get under the lip of your sink.

If you hire a pro, she or he will likely use a Fein Multimaster or the like and be done in about 30 s.

In all cases, you should tape around the perimeter to protect your laminate from scratches. Perhaps even tape down thin metal sheeting, available, among other places, in the HVAC aisle of your big box store.

Here is a link that might be useful: Dovetail saw

Please pardon my ignorance but what would the saw be used for?

Oh, I was imagining using it to remove the caulk. The reason I suggested it is due to its flexibility and thinness. You can hold it at an angle, but still get the blade parallel to your countertop to get under the sink lip:

{{!gwi}}

The saw teeth are sort of "wrong" for the job, but they will certainly cut through the caulk. Likely they will get gummed up and need to be cleaned out frequently.

The teeth are very sharp and cut a very fine kerf. Maybe practice a bit on something other than your countertop first?

Thank you so much. I'm off to Home Depot. I'll keep you posted.

Not to belabor the obvious, but make sure that ALL of the sink mounting clips have been removed from underneath the sink. (Not that the "guys from Lowes" weren't experts, but...)

If you can protect the laminate with a thin board, cardboard, metal etc you can also try driving the end of a thin prybar under the sink edge near a corner and working the corner loose. Once you get a corner loose, the rest should follow fairly easily.

I keep forgetting about those oscillating multitools that Angie mentioned. You can fit them with a scraper blade. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, you can hop down there & pick one up. The single speed one is dirt cheap. I bought the multi-speed one for DH a couple of years ago and we've been using it a lot on the kitchen remodel. Anyway, they work slicker n' snot and it ought to do the job for ya'...except for the side next to the wall. But if you get the other three sides loosened, you ought to be able to manhandle the sink out of there.

Here is a link that might be useful: Harbor Freight multi-tool.

SUCCESS!! Thank you everyone for your help. Ended up using a very sharp wide chisel and a whole bunch of wooden shims. Very, very slowly.

Thanks and God bless everyone!!