Use mineral oil if you want to oil it. The vegetable oil will go rancid. Or alternatively, if you don't cut on it you can waterlox it.

You can go about this two ways. If you want it food safe, first, do not use vegetable oil. It can go rancid. You want to use food grade mineral oil (you can find this at your local CVS/other pharmacy store). I have two different butcher block areas planned out - one I am using is food safe (where I roll out dough) - I mineral oiled it (pour it on, I like to hand rub it to let the heat of my hand help soak it in - sorta fun) let it sit half an hour, and rub off the rest with a cotton rag. Do this every few days. I also have a few jars of mineral oil with a bit of pure bees wax melted in (I found a large chunk of it at our local craft store.) You don't want to use paraffin, but beeswax. Melt a small chunk, like a large ice cube size) into a cup of mineral oil - mix and let cool (it is also fun rubbing in the melted mixture.) When cooled, it resembles canned shoe polish in texture. You rub it in - it provides a fairly tough surface when rubbed in over the soaked in mineral oil. Looks lovely. Hot pans will always be a problem - I purchased a beautiful simple stainless trivet for next to the stove - it is very plain, so it would blend in well with almost any decor.

You will need to oil/upkeep the counter once a month if you choose to do it this way.

If you would rather, you could seal it with Waterlox, which would give it a very durable surface. I am in the process of treating a countertop section with it as I type (just applied the third undercoat - very easy to do.) However, I would recommend that you take the piece of butcher block outside (you should be able to unscrew it from the bottom) - the Waterlox is very smelly until dry (it is food safe when dry, but don't cut on it.) The mineral oil/beeswax surface will allow the antibacterial action of the wood continue - the Waterlox will eliminate the upkeep. I have both surfaces, as I want a baking area, and wanted a natural surface for that area.

I found all this information on line, however some people say that vegetable oil is ok - I have read over and over that it will eventually turn rancid - I remember a cutting block of my parents that smelled - they used olive oil on it. I was dead set against oiled butcher block until I read about not using vegetable oil - I have had no problems since following the mineral oil/beeswax guidelines.

Last, some will recommend Teak Oil, and Waterlox does have teak oil in it - however for people with nut allergies, the pure teak oil is a problem. I don't know if the Waterlox product, when dry, is a problem or not for people with nut allergies. We chose it for its durability and ease of using over any problem areas - no need to sand - just brush some on to fix an area up. We know that accidents happen, and want our countertops usable and fixable. That is why we chose butcher block. Soapstone would have been great, but the butcher block looks wonderful. It will get darker with the Waterlox than with the mineral oil, if that makes a difference to you.

Here is a link that might be useful: stainless trivet

I have an oiled maple block island, and I was told that once you oil it, you can't really go back and waterlox it - the oil that has soaked into the wood won't allow the waterlox to set properly. Maybe someone here has done it successfully? I would just look into this further if you plan to use waterlox. Otherwise, mineral oil, like everyone else said.

I don't have a butcher block but a wood cutting board that I oil. I wasn't too keen on putting mineral oil on a surface where my food would be to tell you the truth since it is a petroleum byproduct. I am currently using coconut oil on it - the difference between it and vegetable oils is that it is shelf stable at room temperature, something about the high amount of saturated fats or something.

While I was researching it seemed like walnut oil would be another good option, though obviously not if anyone in your family has nut allergies!

This is one of those pet peeves I have.

Olga is absolutely right. Mineral oil is used because it is the cheapest, easiest solution but it's definitely not a good choice ecologically.

For the record, I've cooked/baked on butcher block for the 20 years I've had my own place and am still hauling the same blocks (yes, multiple) and cutting boards around. I casually oil them with organic safflower oil once every couple months, let it sit for a half hour or so and then wipe it clean, rubbing out all the excess. I've never had a complaint.

The link is a great one to read the many different opinions and worries on oiling.

Here is a link that might be useful: Board oiling discussion

Thanks to all of you. I have oiled with with walnut oil and done it several times and rubbed it. The natural food store thought that was a good way to go. It looks terrific!

I do have some beeswax in the house and soon I am going to give it another coat with some of that melted in. At any rate...it looks great! And since I knead bread on it, I am glad to not be using a petroleum product no matter how refined!

DEborah

Looks like you have a great solution, but just to add to it, I've been using vegetable oil for years on my cutting boards and have never had a problem. My grandfather made many things from wood (cabinets, clocks, tables, chairs, and cutting boards) and always used vegetable oil for his cutting boards. We've never used olive oil, mainly because of the cost, so I couldn't speak to that, but I personally haven't had an issue with vegetable oil.

When looking into waterlox for my butcher block counter top that we are going to slice on, the man at the paint store (who has been doing paint/ finish for 40 + years) recommended using vegetable oil. He also said if I didn't want to re-oil every 5 months, that you could easily waterlox over the oil.

Just more info to add to the mix!