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Remodeling
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New Forch Roof

19 years ago

I am building a new roof over my front proch. Currently it is covered by an awning. I am going to build a gambel roof and valley it into the existing house roof. The porch roof pitch will be about 3/12.(more if I can get the center height)

The current base is a cement block, (8 inch block with footer) with 2x6 studding to close in a storage area and support porch floor. I intend to come off the wall plate with 4x4 posts,spaced about 7 feet apart,total of 4 posts which will be 8 feet from the house wall to a support beam 20 feet long accross the front.At the house I intend to set the two side beams on the existing walls after removing the soffit and facia. My thoughts at this time are to make the front and side support beams by gluing and laminating 2- 2x6's and a filler piece of plywood or OSB. The side beams will set on top of the front support beam and the roof trusses will set on top of the side beams.

I would like to cantilever the side beams out 24 inches to support an additional roof truss and then 12 inces of over hang. This would allow me to cover a landing and steps in front of the existing porch and would extend the roof a distance of 11 feet from the house wall support to the end of the over hang.

The current distance from my porch floor to the top of my house walls is at least 92 inches without removing the soffit/facia. If I drop my front beam 6 inches this still leaves me about 7 feet 4 inches of head room when you enter the porch off the steps

None of this is final and I am still in the planning stages and open to anyone's suggestion or constructive comments on the above structural strength.

I live in Southwest Pennsylvania and normal snow falls etc. have been considered

Comments (3)

  • 19 years ago

    Are you saying you want to cantilever double 2x6/OSB floor joists out 24" with a roof load on top?
    Ron

  • 19 years ago

    Ron.
    I am going to laminate (Glue and screw) a 2x6 on either side of a piece of OSB or plywood that is thick enough to make the whole beam the same width as a 4X4. I will end up with a beam about 3 1/2 x 6 inches by 10 foot long. These beams will actually end up being the the side supports for the trusses and run perpendicular to the house wall. They will be supported at the wall of the house on the existing wall then again 8 feet from the house wall by 4 4x4 posts topped with another 3 1/2 X 6 inch beam running parallel to the house, which the side beams will set on top of..

    The last roof truss will set 24 inches past the front support beam and will have a roof load. So what I am trying to determine is if these beams will support a roof truss, the sheathing, shingles and normal roof load for a roof 24 inches past the last major support to a solid foundation or if I am going to have to bring some type of angled support post from the end of the beams back to the 4x4 supports.

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  • 19 years ago

    I do not think the 2x6 sandwich is close to being adequate support for the overhang with a load on it. I don't think the 2x6 sandwich is enough to span 8' from the house to the 4x4 corner post if the middle is not supported with 2x4 studs somewhere along the way.
    For an open span of 8' and a 24" cantilever I would use two 2x10 lvl with a 1/2" steel flitch plate in the middle, bolted every 12" in a "W" pattern.
    It's the 24" overhang that's causing the beefed support. You could probably drop it down to 2x8's with an 18" overhang. In any case I would never listen to some clown with a keyboard on the internet. Speak to an architect or structural engineer. The spans, overhang and snow loads need to be seriously considered.
    Ron

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