The wall control isn't bothered or changed by programming. It is wired directly to the opener just like a door bell. Wall Controls do go bad though. You can remove the control from the wall and disconnect the 2 wires going to it. Remember which one went where. One of them has a red tracer. If you touch the two wires together and the opener works it is the wall control. If it still doesn't work the wires are probably bad. You can disconnect the wire with the red tracer from the opener. It goes to terminal #1. Then you can use a screwdriver and short between terminal #1 and #2. If it now works you know the wiring is bad. You don't have to worry about getting shocked as there just isn't enough juice on these wires to do anything.

Hello,
My garage door is not working. The control panel green light is not on. The circuit breaker is okay-not dripped. is this a wiring problem. What should I do? How to remove the wall mounted control panel. Sorry I'm new to this. Can you help.
Thanks.

the control panel is simply a switch. If the green LED is not lit...it is not getting power. Power comes from the opener unit itself. Make sure you have power there.

Do the remotes work?

Check the wires from the control back to the opener and see if there are any breaks.

I'd check the breaker again. Switch it completely off and then back on, sometimes it's difficult to detect a tripped state.

Greetings,

I have two problems with my 1/2 Craftsman chain drive garage door opener that I purchased in 2013.

1)The wall switch is no longer working

2)Our two remotes are no longer working (the only way we open and close the door is with the wireless entry pad located directly outside of the garage door)

Please let me know what I can do to fix this. I greatly appreciate your help.

Does the wall control have an LED on it? Is it lit? lit and flashing? If the unit is in "vacation" mode the LED light would be lit and flashing. It the wall switch is connected properly and the unit has power the LED should be lit and on steady. "Vacation" mode would disable remote operation, however it should not affect operation of the wall switch or the wireless key pad.

I suggest going to the Sears website and getting the manual for your specific model. Then follow procedures to reprogram the remotes.

Hi, thanks for the quick response. The wall control does have an LED light on it but it is not lit nor flashing. I've attached a couple pictures to show you.

As for the remotes, I will try to find the manual on the Sears website and reprogram. Thanks.

if the LED isn't lit I don't think your getting power to the wall switch (which is consistent with it not working). Follow the leads from the switch to the motor and check for any signs of breaks, pinches, or shorts.

If you remove the two wire leads and touch them together does the door open/close? If so you're wall switch is bad.

another thing, I suspect that the disabled wall switch is blocking your remotes because of the "vacation" feature/lock out.

Thanks again for the reply.

1) So I removed the two wire leads and touched them together and it does not open/close the door.

2) I found the manual online and reprogrammed the two remotes per the manual and am having the same issue. To be more clear on this issue: when the garage door is closed, the two remotes are able to successfully open the garage door. However, when the garage door is opened, the remotes do not work to close the garage door (I have to resort to using the wireless keypad to actually close it each time). After clicking the remote when the garage door is opened, I get about 8-9 flashes of the lightbulb. I looked up the troubleshooting for this amount of flashes and the closest amount of flashes I see is 6 flashes which means there may be a logic board issue.

This is rather frustrating since I am out the warranty timeframe. I purchased and had it installed a little over 2 years ago.

you can open the door with the remotes but it won't close. when you try to close the light flashes 10 times? that means that the sensor lights at the base of the door are in a fault condition. There should be two fixtures on the bottom of the door that have leds one green and one yellow. one is the sender and one is the receiver. I believe the green is the sender and it is always lit. The yellow is the receiver and only lights when it detects the beam from the sender indicating that there is no blockage across the opening. both lights need to be on steady with no flickering to automatically close the door.

I'm still confused by the wall switch not working and your wireless keypad is working. If the door sensor lights are not both lit solidly, the door should close at all, except by manually pressing and holding the wall switch until the door is closed. The sensors are a safety so the door doesn't close on something (like a child or a pet.

The wall switch is not working. The wireless keypad is working BUT I do have to manually press and hold the keypad until the door closes. Apologies for not being clear.

At the base of the garage, one sensor has a green light and the other sensor on the other side of the garage has a yellow light. When I stand away from the sensors (so that I am not blocking the two sensors), both lights are lit solidly. When I stand in the way and blocking the sensors, the green light either flashes a little bit and then no longer flashes or just immediately stops flashing altogether. At the same time on the other side, the yellow sensor remains lit solidly. Does this still mean these sensors are in fault condition?

I'm sorry for having to drag this conversation out so long. Thank you for your continued help.

I'd check those sensors again. when there is something blocking the path, one should extinguish while the other stays on solidly. With nothing blocking make sure that the green one is on steady with no flickering at all. you may need to get up close to see it, as it can appear steady but still be flickering. also, make sure that they both aim towards each other. a test would be to remove them from the mount and put them in close proximity to each other which assures that they are making contact. As I stated, having the light blink 10 times and having to hold the button for the duration of the close indicates a fault condition on the safety sensors.

Did you trace the wall switch leads from the switch all the way back to the opener and make sure there are no pinches/shorts and that the leads are connected at both ends? Is the wall switch is connected properly and the opener has power, the LED should be lit. If it doesn't light, I'd get a new wall switch.

I took a closer look at the green sensor and it was indeed flickering. It would stay steady for a little bit and then flicker and vise versa. I then proceeded to take both the green and yellow sensors out of their respective mounts to aim them closer to each other. I then put them back in their mounts and clicked the remote and somehow the door closed! (I don't know why I didn't try clicking the remote when I took both of the sensors out of their mounts but that might be moot at this point) So I think one of the sensors was somehow bumped off alignment within the last week or so. However, what explains the green light flickering? Does it warrant getting a new green sensor?

Also, I traced the wall switch leads from the switch all the way back to the opener and there maybe one pinch that is questionable (see below) but other than that, the leads seemed fine.

If the receptor doesn't get a string enough signal it will flicker. Thisnk of it as a flashlight beam that gets wider and weaker the further is get from the flashlight. As long as the door closes without triggering a fault condition and having to hold the button down for full closure you all set. Sometimes stray or reflected sunlight can washout the sending beam and cause some instability.

If the wire isn't broken in that twist, you should be alright but if the LED isn't lit then you not getting continuity/power through the wall switch. Good luck.

Thank you for all of your help and detailed explanations. So is it worth a shot to just purchase a new wall switch (~$20) but using the same wires?

seeing that you like to tinker and to completely rule out the wiring, demount the wall switch, get a short piece of new wire (two leads) and connect the switch directly to the unit and see if it works. Pay attention to the connections because it makes a difference which lead is connected to which terminal.

Did you post the specific model number you have? did you get a copy of the owner's manual? The details of the connection should be in there.

Good luck.

I found this in a craftsman manual. Not sure if it directly applies to your specific model.

Symptom:
LED is not lit on door control.

• Inspect door control/wires for a short (staple
  in wire), replace as needed.
• Disconnect wires at door control, touch wires together. If motor
  unit activates, replace door control.
• If motor unit does not activate, disconnect door control wires
  from motor unit. Momentarily short across red and white terminals with jumper
  wire. If motor unit activates, replace door control wires.

Would any type of new wire work? Should I go to a local hardware store and just pick up new wire?

Also, what does it mean to short across red and white terminals with jumper wire? Thanks.

any wire would work. This is small gage stuff, I believe they use "bell wire" which is what they use for doorbells.

To short across terminals means to take a small piece of continuous wire, strip the insulation off of about 1/2 in. on both ends (make a jumper wire) and then connect one end to one terminal (red) and the other end to the other terminal (white).

A newly installed Craftsman 13954930 garage door opener has a problem. All works well using the in-car wireless remotes. But the wall controller will not open or close the door. The switch LED does work but pressing the button causes the trouble code 1-up, 3-down to flash. Disconnecting the switch wires at the motor and inserting a short at the motor unit causes the same error code to flash. When the door has been opened using the wireless remotes, the switch LED no longer is lit. Closing the door via the remotes causes the LED to come on again. Sounds like a logic board issue to me - what do you think?

Fred,

flaplante@flos-inc.com

According to this website for your opener

Searsparts website

a "trouble code 1-up, 3-down"

means:

Condition: Wall control defective or wall control wires are broken

Check/Repair: Examine the wall control wires. Reconnect loose wiring connections. Repair or replace damaged wires. Replace the wall control if defective.

I guess I'd start there before swapping the logic board. Also if it's a new opener, get the wall control replaced under warranty. Good luck.

Hello, my garage door wall mount control not working. There is no light and when I push any buttons, nothing. We fortunately have another external garage door panel to test the garage door opener and that works! The garage door opens with the remote. Only the problem is with wall mount control. Modelnumber 13953918d. Appreciate any guidance.

First thing to do is follow the wires from the opener to the wall pad and make sure there are on breaks or shorts. Pay close attention to the staples holding the wires to the wall nd make sure the staples aren't shorting across both wires. Next thing to do would be replace the wall panel.

I have a Chamberlain that i'm upgrading to the MyQ wall panel. I can't get the wall unit to work. I have 2 identical garage doors, 1 works just fine. The second is blowing my mind. Here are the facts:

- The old panel works.

- New panel LED will not turn on. If I play with the red wire (rub it on the back a bit) it will start the garage door moving, but still won't turn on the LED even for a moment.

- I stripped new wires and tried those. Still nothing. But the old panel will still work fine with the new stripped wires.

- Chamberlain was very kind and sent a new panel. Same outcome with all the combinations from above.

What could possibly be wrong? The other garage door was very easy to change out and has worked just fine. What really gets me is the old wall unit continues to work just fine.

Why I need to change it? I don't really, but as I've been automating things in the house, the garage doors are nice to control from my phone. I can set an alarm if they're opened too long (kids forget to close) and if i'm gone I can let someone in without having to send them through the house.

How old is your opener?

this is from https://www.liftmaster.com/for-homes/accessories/control-panels/model-888lm

"Upgrades your LiftMaster Security+® garage door opener (manufactured after 1998) to enable you to control your garage door opener, gate operator, and home lights using your smartphone or computer with the Internet Gateway (sold separately). "

Did you confirm that the two units are the same models number? Any chance the logic board was replaced in one and not the other?

They are the same model number, new around 2006/7. There is a chance a logic board was replaced, I would not know for sure.

Did you ever figure this out, I'm having the same c issue with the red and white wires... when i created a short by trying to daisy chain to my transformer <which is how i broke it, don't ask why> i bought a new panel and that won't turn on, tried new wire, that didn't work, tried putting red to white to trip the door but nothing, i used my power voltage checker and it shows power. I just don't get it. Everything else works. Do i need a new motor?