Hand sew! I sew professionally, so I would never topstitch. However, if you must, loosen your tension, set the machine on the longest stitch you can, and hold the fabric taut, in front and behind the needle to help keep it from shrinking up.

Sheer fabrics present a unique problem with respect to machine sewing. You can certainly sew them by hand, but switching to a "fine" needle (I use a size 12), and fiddling with the machine's tension will permit you to sew them on your machine without much difficulty.

You have to really loosen the tension on the top and the bobbin. You should stitch sample runs on the bias of the sheer fabric, to be sure the tension is adequately loosened. Be certain your test stitching (on the bia) is through 2-3 layers of the fabric you plan to use.

Thanks Ladies. I'm off to my machine to try some tension adjustments. I have to join panels to make the curtains wider so I don't think hand sewing would be too practical so I'll try the tension change first.

Maybe even try long strips of a tear away stabilizer or adding machine tape underneath the fabric.
Kathi

Did you cut the selvage off first? That would help quite a bit. And, DO NOT touch the tension on the bobbin. Almost all tension is controlled from the top thread. The other thing to try is changing threads. Not all threads behave nicely with sheers.

WRONG!

Adjusting the tension on the bobbin case is the mark of someone who truly understands how to properly adjust tension. You cannot properly adjust your machine with respect to the varied thicknesses of the work involved unless you address the bobbin case tension.

Tension on the threads was the second most important thing I had to teach beginning stitchers. And once I explained it thoroughly and was "on call" to help them they "GOT IT". You cannot adequately adjust tension from the "top" only.

"Tension" indicates a delicate interplay of top and bottom threads... . The minute you take the bobbin tension out of play with respect to adjustment the sooner you become more embroiled in tension "problems". Any operator needs to fully understand that the BOBBIN is every bit as crucial the the top thread when it come to getting an even, reliable stitch!

I agree with Chelone! One must be able to balance the top and bobbin tensions, matching them to the fabric and thread weights. If you find yourself sewing with the top tension at 0 on a scale of 1-10 - the BOBBIN needs to be adjusted! It's not magic, and every bobbin in the world will eventually need to be adjusted.

The key is to make small adjustments on the bobbin. Make sure the needle and thread are both appropriate for the fabric being sewn. Set the top tension to the mid-point (or whatever the recommended range for your machine is). Sew a test seam. If you need to adjust the top tension by more than a notch or two, then probably the bobbin tension needs work.

Sorry , but you are very misinformed in your information. The tension on the top thread will control the stitches on the bobbin.If you looked at a profile of the top and bottom stitches, there should be a balance. Make the top tension loose and it will affect the bottom, same thing if the top stitch is too tight. You ONLY need to adjust the top thread. I have 51 years of sewing experience, and 30 years as a professional. I have only once had to adjust a bobbin. It doesn't need it.

Just a little aside, my bobbin is a top loader and you can't adjust it. Working with the top works for me. JMHO.

It's always been my understanding, that you should never (for the most part) adjust, or have to adjust, the bobbin tension. I've never had to and I've been sewing for about 40 years.

I was a supervisor for a number of "line" stitchers for years. Once I explained how machine tension worked and was "on call" to help for a few days it "clicked". They'd look at "popped" stitching" and know instantly how to correct it. And sometimes it involved adjusting the bobbin case tension.

When I worked "in the line" the supervisor would routinely crank on the top tension and remove the bobbin case and loosen the adjustment screw on that, too (when we were on break). It was up to us to figure out the problem and solve it ourselves... only when we were unable, did she come to help. A reliable and competent stitcher/operator is not freaked out by tension "issues". At least not in my experience, let alone on "my watch". (and I was PAID to make sure production continued, within very specific inspection regulations).

Perhaps it is different with some home machines (I've never heard of one that couldn't be adjusted, but mine are OLD), but it's definitely NOT the case with industrials (commercials? ;) ). I haven't spent over 25 yrs. using them without learning SOMETHING... .

Sorry again Chelone, but I do own an industrial....several as a matter of fact. Your information is just not correct. When the top thread is too loose, the bottom thread will look like it is laying along the surface of the bottom....there will be no indentations on the bobbin thread.As you tighten the top, the bottom threads will start to pull up toward the top of the fabric. If the top thread is too tight, the top thread will appear to just lay across the surface of the top, while the bobbin thread will look like it is pulling up to the top.As the tension is loosened,the top thread will move toward the bottom of the fabric. When the tension is balanced , the stitches will look uniform on both sides.By adjusting the top tension you are automatically adjusting the bottom thread. The ONLY time you ever need to touch the bobbin tension is if you push the bobbin to use a thread that is way too heavy that it does not slide through the notch easily, and at that point, your machine probably won't want to sew it.Don't assume your experience is better or more knowledgable than others.There is no need to shout WRONG.It is a forum....not brain surgery, and there will be different opinions. BTW....I made a mistake on my math....my professional experience is 34 years.I've worked at McCalls, Simplicity, Coats & Clark, DMC, owned my own garment company, and now do home furnishings. That is only a partial list of my credentials.

I do not assume my personal experience is "better" than anyone else's. It's just different, that's all. I do not agree with the assumption that one may only adjust needle tension. That doesn't work when you move into the realm of multi-needle machines. The principles of tension remain the same, but you have to address the "bottom" threads, too.

I come from a background in manufacturing. I was trained in that capacity and was responsible for many stitchers in the production line. I trained them, oversaw them, and was responsible for quality AND maintaining production. Your experience is different than mine. You probably haven't had to deal with machines that were operated for 3 successive shifts and subject to a variety of operators. That said, please don't think I'm "dissing" your personal experience. Tell us about your particular machinery!

I think, perhaps, the use of capital letters is is often misconstrued. You perceive it as "shouting", I see it as merely emphasis. Well, maybe you're right, but without enough computer savvy to call up another mode I'm stuck with capitals... when I see a commonly held misconception perpetuated I will say so. Your explanation of tension is dead on, BUT... what happens when you begin to add multiple layers to the top side of the work, OR to the bottom... you can't address tension issues from one side only. If you add more layers to the underside you have to add more bobbin thread to get the interconnecting phase of the needle and bobbin to occur EQUALLY between the layers. Adjusting the needle thread only will not pull the bobbin thread to the center of the layers, if you're lucky it will barely peek above the bottom most layer. And the line of stitching will not be in balance when tension is put on the seam.

I DON'T agree with your assumption; it doesn't work across the breadth of machinery in the world of manufacturing. Not only that, it perpetuates a myth that paralyzes too many home sewers. One of my best friends is a mechanic... he shrugs his shoulders at the number of "machine problems" that are simply tension problems, created by owners who're freaked out by the most basic adjustments.

My opinion. Nothing more...