Who is providing the materials list? Don't bet that the contractor isn't going to adjust the bill if his crew is idle while you're running out for more shingles.

Another thought. If you provide the materials and have a contractor install them and then have any problems, the contractor will likely just blame the materials provided and say it's not his problem. You then have to prove the problem was caused by workmanship alone in order to have any recourse with the contractor.

IMHO, this is not a good way to do this type of job. You don't buy a new set of spark plugs and then bring them to a mechanic to install. You either install them yourself or just have the mechanic get them and put them in for you.

just my 0.02.

Depends on where you live! In Ca. if you have put shingles on over whatever builder put on,(after 2 layers) it all has to come off & you have to put on plywood 4x8 sheets, I think at least 1/2 in thick.These have to have a small gap all around them for expansion. Then you put the felt over that starting at the bottom of course,going across bottom edge of roof.(parallel to peak)This is most important to get right as you pretty much use it as your guide(if it's not straight rest of roof won't be straight" for that side. You might consider your weather & do backside 1st (removing all old if you have more than original shingles& doing felt & shingles up to top before you open up another area of roof, tarps don't hold up well if you get heavy winds.)(otherwise rain could get in also critters.) You need the roll shingle stuff for starter course it goes over felt &(also we used it in valleys(top of roof down to bottom edge of valley & went over them with the shingles. The starter course goes on at bottom edge of roof over the edge a little,(felt should be covered) check your old roof or neighbors or see if they have specs for it in your county. That gives a good base for starting the 1st row of shingles. Rest of job is lining it all up so it is even all across. You want to go all the way across 1 section doing each row & go up to peak. We did back side at church (to get in the groove LOL so the street side would look good.Measure with tape measure 3 times each row from lower edge up to top of last shingles you put on so they are even,otherwise eyeball it. Need the peak shingles, out here they go from center out to ends meeting at center of roof. May be different in your area so see how other roofs look before you start & write it down. Most places that sell shingles will deliver them & put them on your roof & spread them out so weight won't do your roof in. Let them deliver & put them up there. They are heavy I don't care how many muscles you have. Save them for working on the roof,get some knee pads, thick & fairly soft or a thick 6 in. old cushion to kneel or sit on & can use shingle nails or a nail gun.No nails should show. Another consideration is how steep your roof is. If it is very steep you would be smart to attach a 2x4by 6 or 8 ft board at peak of roof & nylon rope around you & fastened to the board. Broken thigh bone takes good 6 mos. to heal!!Wet or icy roof is another way to fall so be careful Good Luck!

the insurance adjuster is coming up with an estimate along with the roofing contractor for labor. I can just have the roofer provide the materials and I specify what I want however.

I am in atlanta, GA.

I can get a material supply house to deliver the shingles and put them on the roof?

Most roofers out here wont back up their work if they are working with unfamiliar materials. Most have suppliers they deal with and install per mfgr's warranty requirements to keep it all in check. If your contractor isn't legit by being licensed and insured, the mfgr. of your shingles might not warrant any probl;ems should they crop up. They can blame it on the install, or as sdello mentioned, the roofer can blame it on the materials. By getting a legit roofing outfit to take care of the whole shebang materials and labor, all is covered, but make sure it's all in writing. Insurance co. out here require three estimates and an inspector working for the insurance company typically inspects the damage. Because of the high winds here and out of town adjusters, typically the whole roof is just repalced uninspected even when a small area has been stripped away. They still want three estimates however.

You weren't clear about if you intend to tear the old roofing off but if you are you should install WR Grace Ice & Water Shield (no substitutes) and use as much of it as you can afford but at least at the eaves and valleys.

yes, I will be tearing my old shingles off down to the plywood...

My insurance CO does not have requirements as you stated above. my contractor will be warrantying his work..

Any roofing supply Companies in atlanta?

I guess I dont have to go with Owens corning oakridge Onyx black AR shingles. Anyone else recommend a shingle that is well priced? Consumer reports just gave them a high score so that is why I was going to use them..

I don't know why you would look to an insurance co to detail your roof but I do know that having a warranty is no substitute for good roofing practice and base flashing at eaves, valleys and penetrations is the first step.

WR grace ice & water shield - u mentioned that product. Where do I get that? secondly, u mentioned base flashing at eaves, valleys and penetrations. Any certain type product there? or just galvanized tin?

If insurance is covering it, why are you looking to buy the materials?
That does not make any sense at all!
Let the contractor do what he does best, let him handle the whole job, warranty it, get paid for it, and be done with it!

so i dont have to pay a contractor's markup on the cost of materials. I can then do other things with my savings if you must know. Insurance is just going to write a check... it is up to me how to get it done.

Ice & Water Shield should be sold by any building supply store. You probably don't need metal in the valleys but I don't know the design of the roof. The drip edge can be galvanized steel or factory painted aluminum. The Ice & Water Shield should be placed in all the valleys and on the eaves back 3 ft beyond the exterior wall. Go to their web site for more information.

If you don't know how to detail a roof find someone who does or you will be wasting the insurance money.

Here is a link that might be useful: WR Grace

check with your building dept. for the codes. The insurance company as well as the contractor have to follow the minimum code requirements and they do not get to pick and choose which part of code they follow. The code is the minimum you can always go above and beyond.