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true4uca

Sleeves,How to

21 years ago

Hi All,

Just tried to make my first clothing item (gotta start somewhere).I used my fav. shell top as a pattern,I never know what size pattern to get.This worked really well. 3/4 yd. was way too much fabric.Hate to toss it,I bought 3 types.So can I add sleeves,if so how.Is this too ambitious for a beginner without a store bought pattern.

HELP

True4uca

Comments (13)

  • 21 years ago

    Find something you have you like the sleeve of and use it as a pattern...something not too ambitious obviously. Maybe just a little cap sleeve....anything that has been gathered is gonna be tricky so just keep it a straight across the cap sleeve with little or no gathering...and try it ....cut it the same way you did the top...if you are really brave remove the sleeve and open it out for a pattern and then resew it back into the original article ...any adventure is a lesson waiting to be learned.

  • 21 years ago

    I have used patterns that I have taken from dresses, shirts and pants that I like the style of and made new from them. It is not difficult as long as you accurately copy the piece. Setting in a sleeve for a beginner is not the easiest project, but that is how we learn. Make sure that when you set in the sleeve you notch the curves or the sleeve will not sit properly and you will not be able to move your arms when you have it on. Ask me how I know, LOL!

  • 21 years ago

    i think its too ambitious for a beginner. for your first sleeve use a pattern.

  • 21 years ago

    I, too, think you should get a pattern for your first sleeve project. Otherwise you may get so discouraged that you may give up sewing.

  • 21 years ago

    Hi All,
    Thanks for suggestions.hoerlel I guess I know exactly what you mean by notching the curve.I did get to buy a pattern.When I got home I read the instructions.LOL. It recommends 1.5m of material,I've been using 3/4m.Also bought a pattern for pants.Took my measurements & I need size 14-16.I nornally wear 10-12 ready wear. I'm nervious to cut the material that big.Just laid my own pants on pattern.The pattern waist is a little generous,but the legs are way too big,like 4-5 inches.I will trim that down.I have a serger.grin.

  • 21 years ago

    Have you got any old sheets? It will set your mind at ease if you can try out the pattern first. The result will let you know what adjustments to make and you can use it for a cleaning rag when you are finished with it!

    Once you have a pattern you like you can use it time and again without problems, but it does take practice and experimentation to get that point.

    Have fun!
    AJ

  • 21 years ago

    Sleeves are tricky. The closer, more "fitted" the look you desire, the more difficult they become.

    A truly "set sleeve" varies in degree of difficulty. A blouse or man's shirt is less difficult than a sport coat or an overcoat. A "set sleeve" is closed at the underarm before instertion into a closed armhole. Any "open" variation is NOT a set sleeve. "Setting" tells you instantly that you will be putting a cylinder into a closed ring.

    If you're worried about fit, worry FIRST about sleeve fit (does the sleeve comfortably and adequately encompass the upper arm?) and THEN about shoulder lengths (you can adjust shoulder length easily if its too long). Once you have those two aspects addressed, the body circumference measurements and adjustments are really quite easy. USUALLY.

    You begin fitting with the shoulders and sleeves. ALWAYS. This is the first lesson you learn when you begin to assess fit on furs. And it's the same with menswear/tailored garments. "Fit" is built from the shoulders down. Proper fit begins at the shoulders, because that's where cut and construction must begin to build shape into a garment. "Lowering" a collar is traditionally one of the most basic "tests" a new tailor or alterationist is given when they apply for a position. So is "raising" a sleeve cap.

  • 21 years ago

    True, I know what you mean about the sizing with patterns. I never was able to figure out why they differ so much from already made clothing. That was probably my most frustrating part of garment sewing. You can be very accurate in your cutting and measuring and still have an item that is too large. Using their measurements to find the correct size pattern was also off for me.....and I am talking from 25 years ago and they still have not changed. Can't understand why!

  • 21 years ago

    Hi,
    Thanks for all the info regarding sleeves.I fixed that by making sleeveless tops (grin).That's fine right as sleeveless is what I'm wearing.Come Sept.I'll try again.
    Thanks,
    Trudy

  • 21 years ago

    I bought a few wonderful patterns by Kayla Kennington. They're all straight lines. NO curves! I find that they are easy to adapt into different designs. Google and have fun.

  • 21 years ago

    Tru, most new sewers...from home ec. days...started with a capped type sleeve or did sleeveless and learned to sew facings in correctly.

    You are starting out correctly.

    Also converting a sleeveless to a sleeved can be tricky because the armseye is shaped differently for a sleeve.

    When shopping for a pattern look for patterns with multiple views...your get more pattern and versatility for the money.

  • 21 years ago

    Regarding pattern sizing. I find that I need a pattern that is two full sizes bigger than Ready-to-Wear garments. Wish they'd get a little more standardized.

    It's been a long time since I went to home ec college, but I believe we were taught to fit first the bust as it was the most critical fitting point. Also there's a good article on fitting pants in Threads Magazine July 2005 where they advise one to fit the waist first, then everything else.

    I agree about using old sheets as a fitting muslin before using the fashion fabric. I like the drape better than muslin, and you can pick the sheets up cheaply at garage sales and thrift stores (or just use your own if they're worn).

    Sleeves aren't difficult to set, but I always run two rows of gathering stitches from notch to notch. Sandra Betzina advises to split the sleeve pattern in three parallel places from the top of the sleeve cap to just to the bottom cutting line (leaving a hinge at the bottom) and overlapping 1/8" on each cutting line for a total reduction of 3/4". Her theory is that pattern companies build in too much wearing ease in the sleeve cap. I've tried this several times with varying results...but my upper arms are getting rather chunky, I'm afraid. If you do remove some of the extra fabric, Betzina claims the garment will look more professional. Has anyone else tried this? If so, what results have you had?

  • 21 years ago

    Re Chelone's comments --
    "and THEN about shoulder lengths (you can adjust shoulder length easily if its too long)."

    How do you shorten the shoulder length? My shoulder seams are always a bit too wide, but when I try to recut the top of the armseye, the sleeve does not look good after insertion.

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