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xstpenguin

high bust size v. bust size

20 years ago

Hi Folks

Oh boy, am I getting confused with all this!

The basic principle is...

The major commercial pattern companies (vogue, butterick, mccalls, simplicity)all size their patterns to fit a B cup in the bust. So you measure yourself around the bust and compare to the chart and buy the pattern.

Except if you are larger (or presumably, smaller) than a B-Cup this is not going to be a good fit in the neckline and shoulders. So.... you measure your 'High Bust/Chest' and compare the 2 measurements. If it the Bust is more than 2inches bigger than the High Bust then you should buy the pattern size closest to your High Bust.

This is where it all starts to get confusing (sorry if you were confused already!). A B-cup assumes a 2" difference. So if you measure above the Bust, under the armpits right round the back you surely need to add 2" to get the right size?

I have the Palmer/Pletsch book Fit for Real People and there is a photo of a lady measuring 35.5" in the high bust, (right under the armpits but angling slightly downwards in the back to just 1" or so above the bra strap) and 38" in the Full Bust, straight around. They give a little chart Size 12 34" bust 14 36" 16 38". So they reckon she should use the size 12 pattern and adjust for a full bust.

NB they did not add on 2" to find the pattern size.

There is an article in Threads magazine, says you should add on 2".

HELP! :-)

This is not just about fitting 1 pattern on me, this is about understanding the principle so I can apply it to all different styles on lots of different people.

Thanks,

AJ

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