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madam_butterfly

Binding A Neckline

19 years ago

I'm confused about binding necklines. I'm making a chasuble for an Anglican priest. Binding the neckline makes the vestment wear better than just turning in the face fabric and then tacking the lining to it. But! I've not had success with binding in the past. The binding always looks twisted and won't lie flat and smooth.

It seems to me that this type of binding comes in two types. One is called 'French binding' and I don't recall the name of the other type (if I ever knew it!). It also seems to me that one type is cut on the straight of the fabric and the other is cut on the bias.

Then there's the whole issue of: Do you stretch the binding as you stitch it.......or not?

I've seen binding done at the neckline many, many times. I like it! It's a simple, clean look. But, I can't do it!

Help!

Madam Butterfly

Comments (7)

  • 19 years ago

    Years ago I use to do the decorating of the chasuble, and a friend did the sewing, if I can remember, she did a cowl collor, this rolled into a nice neckline and the stole fit well on top, to make a binding I guess I would first try a strip on the grain, against a strip on the bias, I am guessing the bias would stretch into the curve laying flat after being tacked down. Rene

  • 19 years ago

    Cowl necks are nice too. This priest wants the neckline plain. In the past, I've tried both binding methods. Neither of them worked well for me. It's one of those things, you know? There's a probably a little trick in there somewhere! And, this forum is so good at sharing those little tricks!

    E

  • 19 years ago

    I love to use bias tape for necklines because the results are so much easier to wear than facings. I only use tape cut on the bias and have to be careful not to stretch it while stitching it, especially around tight corners. Assuming you are using pre-made tape, are you pressing one of the folds out flat and then stitching that edge to the right side? Then folding it all to the inside? For the initial row of stitches, I try to stitch along the crease where the fold line used to be.

    The only downside to using this sort of edge finishing is you will have a visible row of top stitching when you secure the tape down on the inside. This may not be desired on some types of garments. Hopefully this will help you some.

  • 19 years ago

    Madam,
    Are you clipping your curves enough? This helps straighten the edge of the neckline and the tape should lie flatter without twisting. Or, you could use the "stitch in the ditch" method with Needle_babe's directions, so the stitching will be less visible. I don't know if it's still made, but I used to use a knit fold-over edging in years past(maybe you could make your own by cutting a long strip of knit fabric on the bias?).Hope this helps.

    Here is a link that might be useful: stitches

  • 19 years ago

    there are two things that help bias binding look great.

    1. the first is to press the curve in an approximation of the curve on the garment. Don't try going from straight to curved on the machine.

    2. the second is to attach the binding to the wrong side, cut away the seam allowance, turn the bias to the right side, press and then either top stitch it down or if you want it to look perfect, handstitch it with a slip stitch.

    Making your own bias binding isn't hard at all and at www.clotilde.com you can buy tools for turning and pressing bbias binding and a chart that tells you how many yards of fabric you need to make the amount of bias binding you want, that way you can use silk or velevt or anything you want.

    I hope this makes sense.

  • 19 years ago

    If you make your own binding, it helps to starch it and then handle it gently. If using pre-made, I sew it on in the crease of the binding and then hand stitch along the opposite crease...no sewing shows. The quilters use a method of binding that is double, sewed on, turned and hand stitched on in the fold, but that can be bulky on garments.

  • 19 years ago

    Yes, hand stitching can eliminate the appearance of the top stiching, I thought about writing it but....eeeeeeeksss! Do I hate hand stitching or what? More power to you all! I'll stick with the neatly-done top stiching! LOL.

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