Unfortunately the problems you faced were not really the fault of the manufacturer, as it's the people your dealing with. Pella tries to have local distributors to service certain areas of the Nation. Lowes on the other hand has their own Rep who reports back to the corporate office. Since the Lowes Rep can't cross over with the local distributor it creates quite a mess. Lowes Corporate office doesn't want the cross over because there's to much room for error if more people are involved. This way it's only the responsibility of one person. Lowes should of had you deal with their Rep and then that person could have dealt with your issue and made the corrections. Since I install for Lowes and have an outside relationship with Pella, I have an advantage over the others. Lowes should have dealt with you directly and not pushed you to the local distributor.

The broken glass is usually very easy because Lowes can cross reference their order number to the exact window from Pella. Then the window glass can be ordered from that unit number, it's usually very simple. As for the whistling in your other window it's hard to determine without being there. Most the time it's because the installer didn't shim the vertical center of each side during the install. Then the reveal usually gets wider and wind blows through. The best way to find this is by slowly moving your hand around the window until you can maybe feel some breeze coming through. Usually it's the vertical center of the sides or across the center where the two windows lock together (the meeting rail). Otherwise just make sure the window is locked correctly to tighten the two sashes together.

It's a windy , chilly day, and I'm finding noisy, whistly Pella double hung windows as well. We just moved in this new construction 8 months ago. This summer, my home felt extremely humid. I found a problem with the middle part of the window not being tight enough. Pella fixed it and it works well now. Now, my problem appears as the person stated above. I feel cold air coming through the top of the windows around where thatsash(?) part is along the sides. So, is this a caulk, installation, or window flaw? Who do I contact, Pella or builder's installers?

lbelle,

Can you please tell me what Pella tight in the middle part of the window?

If it's an installation problem, there's two real easy ways to check for this. The main way is to measure the width at three points - the top, middle and bottom. Measure the width of the clad frame on the exterior, not the wood jamb extensions on the interior. It's fairly common (and incorrect) for people, even licensed carpenters, to not shim the center when installing the window, and if they fail to do so the window can badly leak at the middle of the window. This is because there is a spring compression/tension behind the vinyl tracks on many modern windows that presses the tracks against the top & bottom sashes. That pressure would cause the uninstalled window to bow out at the middle, so that the window might for example be 33" wide at the top and bottom but 33-3/8" in the middle. When installing them one is supposed to shim the window at the sides, especially in the middle, so that the window frame width is a true 33" (or whatever width) at all points. If the window is allowed to be installed wider at the middle than at the top and bottom, not only will the window be drafty but also the screen will fit poorly with gaps on the middle left & right.

The other thing to check for is if the window was installed square. The way to check for this is to measure the window diagonally from the upper left to the lower right, and then measure the other way diagonally from the upper right to the lower left. These two measurements should match. If they do not, it means the window is out of square. One of the window in my home was a full 1/2" out of square (it's corrected now); an out of square window will let in a lot of air.

These two methods apply to many brands of windows, not just Pella (which is actually pretty decent). In my role as a mediator for NARI, I get assigned many window-related cases in which the homeowner filed a complaint against a contractor/builder/window company - some of them are without merit and some are legitimate. In many cases the problem is not with the particular window company; it's with the installation. Even crummy windows will perform fairly well (at least initially) if properly installed.

lbelle I didn't answer your question, sorry. It doesn't sound like your problem is a caulk problem. I can only assume it's one of three things: 1) An installation problem, 2) A window flaw, or 3) It's not really a problem at all.

No window is perfectly airtight, so some air infiltration is to be expected. However, it shouldn't be very much. Although calling the builder or calling Pella are both viable choices, I'd call Pella. Here's why: If it's an installation issue, the builder might not be willing to admit it and dance around the issue. Pella would presumably tell it like it is, whether it's a window problem or installation problem. And Pella includes labor in their warranty for the 1st 2 years, one of the few wood window companies to do so, so why not have them diagnose the problem.

Which model Pella are you talking about? Be specific? Is it a Thermastar sold by Lowes? or a 450 series, or 850 series also sold by Lowes? a Pro Line Pella, An Architect series Pella ...

Are they vinyl; aluminum clad or wood exterior? How old are the units & were the flashed & installed properly.

Woodinvirginia
The model Pella I have is Thermastar sold by Lowes
They are Vinyl. They are 2 years old and yes when Pella coming to check the windows, he said they are all leveled correctly.
He did say that the Vinyl windows are a problem to replace.
Pella manufactors always gets the measume wrong.Which they have many times.

Unfortunately the Pella Thermastar is not my first choice in a window. I often see many of them installed poorly and having issues. One thing we've found with almost all horizontal sliders or casements is the best way to install them is flush on a level sill. We find that anytime they are shimmed up off the sill problems arise. When you have full support all the way across, we don't have issues. I've also seen stickers that are now telling the installer to have continuous support across the bottom of every window. As for replacing vinyl windows being difficult..that's hog wash! Vinyl windows are one of the easiest to replace.

Getting dimensions wrong when reordering is usually the fault of who ever is ordering & re-measuring. Almost every new style window without brickmould is measured on the exterior side easily. 99% of the unit dimensions are the exposed frame dimensions you look at daily. The problem most people have is differentiating between the UNIT SIZE and the ROUGH OPENING. These are usually mixed up with each other. I always order my windows Unit Size because then I know it will fit the way I want it to. Otherwise numbers are transposed from one sheet to the other wrong.

Tru_blue, here's one thing I learned long ago in the trade. I'm not busting your chops in any way at all. You and I are usually on the same page all the time, but I really must pass this one on to you for the issues you face professionally.

My years in the trade have brought me full cycle over the years. Manufacturing the product, installing & servicing the product along with some R&D. One thing I really learned to throw out the window was my level and squaring up a unit with a tape. Don't get me wrong, I use them, I just don't rely on them. Squaring and leveling a door or window is a very vague term. These two methods are great in a perfect environment almost every time. Eight times out of ten the perfect scenario is never there. When installing you must use the level on the sill of every unit. The rest of the story is all in the eye of the installer (in most cases). If every door and window made came perfect this would be easy. I see on a daily basis that most units coming out to the jobsite are off in width or height 1/8" to 1/4". Meaning one leg of the four is different than its paralleling mate. This throws the squaring right out the window (funny). I've watched people pull their hair out trying to figure out why the unit is installed square and level, but the reveal is a mile off. I usually sit back and laugh until a hammer comes out to make some frustration adjustments. Then I measure everything up and usually find it right away. This is really evident in the vinyl windows from the four point welder getting to hot or cold in one of the corners. The wood or clad units usually will be cut short or have to much sealant in a corner. You know where I'm coming from.

I teach all my installers the same method and we never have problems. Ounce the sill is leveled off, the reveals (the reveal is the space or gap between the operating sash and the frame or door and the frame, for those who don't know) are where you make it or fall on your face. If you get that reveal even all the way around the best you can, your usually safe. By opening a sash a quarter inch and making sure that gap is even from top to bottom or side to side will almost always be the best. Then close the windows and make sure all the locks engage without to much effort. This way you know the window will at least be working the best way it can. You may already know this, but I just wanted to put it out there because so many installers and reps out there don't have a clue what their looking for.

Guy you are right on (as usual). I oversimplified things to avoid a lengthy post since I was short on time. Checking the margins is an excellent way to insure proper operation. If installers would do that it could avoid so many window-related problems. Your explanation regarding margins, which was well said, brings up an interesting issue. And I think you and I would probably handle it the same way. The issue is this - should one put in the window that is slightly off (assuming they can get it close enough to properly operate) or reorder another one from the manufacturer until they get it right, delaying the project? As you know many installers wouldn't even catch it. I admit I flip flop on that issue sometimes, depending on the circumstances. Sometimes I'd return the window unit and reorder another - especially if I think the customer might have a huge problem with less then perfection (ever have one of those?). Other times I know it won't be an issue and I can get the window to work just fine. Again, as long as performance and operation isn't compromised I could go either way. If it's too far off and the margins just won't work, then it's a no-brainer.

The only time we return a window is when we can't get it to seal properly or it has a physical defect that we can't cover up. Yes we do get the poorly made window every now and then. As long as we can install it without loosing any of the sealing properties, we leave it in. These imperfections aren't usually visible to the naked eye and will never be seen. We just make sure it functions as good as all the other windows.

Most manufacturers have a built-in safety measure in case the window is improperly installed or the unit isn't square. Most of this is at the top of the unit, simply on the fact that the other three sides need to be squared for the unit to reach it's best performance level. The DH unit usually has a weather stripping across the top sash and the back side of the upper stop. The upper stop usually extends down a little more to allow for imperfections. The weatherstrip is located lower on the stop to seal up the top sash in the event it was not level. The rule of thumb I preach to all my installers is the bottom reveal and both sides must be set correctly and the locks must function with out to much force to activate. Every unit we install must have shims inserted and screwed down in the center of each side no matter what style window it is. This will guarantee the unit is secured and any air infiltration is blocked from entering an over-sized reveal.

Horizontal sliders and patio doors also have the sash pocket at the top ready to cover any imperfections. The Casement (or Crank Out) is really the only unit that requires the installer to be at the top of his/her game. If there are any imperfections in this type of window we almost always re-order the window. The Casement not only has to be square but it has to be level vertically. I know you've seen it 100 times when cranking a window shut the bottom or top of the sash hits the weatherseal before its opposite corner. Then the only way to get the sash to seal up is by activating the lock to pull the sash in place. I see this all the time & it drives me mad! It must be leveled so the sash hits the weatherstrip evenly from top to bottom. The other big mistake I constantly see is during the installation process the sides aren't shimmed in place and the outside reveal is so big you can look into the house through the crack. I see this mainly on the pivot side of the frame. Installers seem to forget about that side. ounce you level and square the unit, you usually nail off the four corners. After that is done the sash should be shut and both sides should be shimmed until the outside reveal is perfect all the way around. The weatherstripping along the sash edge should be sealing against the frame on all four sides. Only then can you anchor it in place. Some casement units come with eccentric's located under the pivot arms, top & bottom. They usually have a tiny wrench you can use to fine tune the sash placement by turning these eccentric's. I'll bet you more than 50% of the installers out there don't even know these exist.

In the long run I agree with you that as long as the Performance and Operation aren't compromised, it's good to go.

No longer viewed to be the very best...:)

Michael

I had the Pella Double Hung Designer series windows installed and I am having problems locking them. I have to put all my might into pushing the bottom down and also pushing on the top in order to get it lined up to lock. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions on correcting this problem?

its their weather stripping.
after you close and lock them, leave them shut for as long as you're able to. the weather stripping should soften up. theory is, its eventually a better seal. too bad we have to deal with it.

I have had Pella out 3 times to fix my window and it is still not correct. I am still unable to close and lock my window correctly, this is a huge safetly issue, and when I tried talking to the company they said they have fixed it the best they can. I have had only problems with the window I have purchased from them!

Hi Carll, I understand about the weather stripping as they had explained that to me. That is why I told Pella I would give it until Spring. The thought was that after being closed, and locked for the winter they should be fine. Unfortunately, that is not the case. They are actually suppose to come out the beginning of May (yes I had to wait 4+ weeks in order to get the appointment) and switch the weather stripping to a thinner stripping on one window. First, it will be interesting to see if they show up with the right weather stripping because they were suppose to do this once before and the repairman did not come with a thinner stripping. Now, if he does not come with it in hand I am sure they will make me wait another 4-6 weeks before they can come out again and fix their mistake. Do you know for a fact that the stripping will loosen up eventually????? Have you gone through this, or someone you know????

hi deedee. i couldn't say that i know for fact, but yes i have gone through it and they did loosen up. most of the windows in my house are casements, however i do have double hungs all through my kitchen.
my rep told me to keep them shut for as long as possible and thats what i did. Obviously if yours do not then i would push back on pella until they find a solution for you. hopefully, they'll loosen up. if not HOPE the tech shows up with a thinner weather strip that'll work.
good luck.

Pella came out today and believe it or not I had a great service man and he had an easy solution. Apparently, they designed a new lock. The new lock extends further so that it can grab the latch without having to push down on the window. Unfortunately, he only had one of these locks with him, but he did install it on one window to show me how it works. After several service calls the problem was solved in one minute.

As for the leak I was informed that the installers have to come back out and that would require another appointment in about 5 or so weeks.

Although, I am still upset about having to schedule another appointment for the leak I feel relived that the locking issue is coming to an end and therefore can feel confident in my decision to purchase Pella again.

On another note, I'd like to mention that I did have a great salesperson who did not leave me high and dry. He was willing to assist me in any way he could. I also had a great serviceman today and feel confident in calling him if there should ever be another problem, however I do not expect that to happen again.