Dark Stained Oak Windows - Replacement

20 years ago

I've looked the forum through and don't think this has been asked in the recent past.

I've been in this all-brick house since we built it in 1984. Since we plan to live in it 16-18 more years and are having problems with the windows, we're looking to replace all 25 of them. Although the double glass is all intact, the problem is that some windows won't stay up, some won't open at all, some only open when tapped with a hammer, and when they open, they all screeeeech.

The house is in a pretty good neighborhood in North Carolina, so we'd like the windows to look good. All of the windows are wood with simulated divided lights - wood muntins that snap on the inside of the windows. Seven of my windows are dark oak stained inside, and thus my problem.

First of all, I've been looking at replacement windows since I believe (right or wrong) that's what I should be looking at with good, solid wood sills and around the windows inside the brick. And I think I should be looking at real wood inside so I can stain it to match the current trim.

There was a home show here this passed weekend, and I found several companies offering what seemed to be good windows that would satisfy my needs. But I haven't gotten any price quotes yet. First one is in two days. The companies/style I'm looking at are Andersen/Renewal, Marvin/Integrity, Pella/? and possibly Hurd.

The idea of zero maintenance outside attracts me so I'm looking at clad. From what I gather in the forum, the opinion of best to worst is:

- fiberglass

- aluminum

- vinyl

So my questions are:

- Do I have any other options rather than finishing/staining the windows myself?

- Should I totally be looking at replacement rather than new construction windows? If not, how do I go about finding about new construction windows?

- Are there other brands I should consider?

- Am I on the right track about cladding?

- What should I look for about differentiating between the windows (other than price and who does the installation)?

- What am I missing?

Thanks very much in advance.

Doug

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Comments (3)

Michael
20 years ago
I sell windows for a living but I encourage to try to perform maintenance on the existing units rather than toss them out.

NC is easy on wood windows compared to the northern climates. There are parts available to tune those windows. Perhaps some adjustments is all that is needed.

Do you know the brand of the existing windows?

Michael
mike35
20 years ago
I agree with Michael. If you can get the existing "tuned up", it would be the best way to go. If you must replace, you do have lots of options. If you want oak interiors, you will be have fewer choices, but choices still.
Marvin offers oak interiors, so does Eagle. Andersen offers oak interiors on the Woodwright line, including their new insert replacement window (not the same as Renewal).
You should also check the existing window frames, from the outside. Check for rot or water damage. If any exists, replacement windows will do you no good, and you'll need new construction windows. The same companies offer oak interiors on new construction units as well.
As for cladding, all 3 options have advantages and disadvantages, but all do a good job of reducing maintenence.
Check with local suppliers, and see what other options you may have available.
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cltkiter
Original Author
20 years ago
Thanks to both of you. I think I misled you about the finish. The wood in the windows is pine, but it's a "dark oak stain". Thank you for the leads on the manufacturers. I see that they all offer unfinished (or in some cases finished) wood inside the windows.

Since I wrote the original post, I've gotten a couple of "rough quotes". Not exact, but letting me see where it could go cost-wise. Now that I've seen the estimates of $800-$1,000 per window, I am questioning whether or not I was using sound logic in thinking about replacement.

It would seem that if I had water leakage, or between the panes it was cloudy, or if I had some significant air leaks, it would make sense to replace. But that's really not the case in my windows. I know that the newer windows are much more energy efficient than my 22-year-old double pane windows, but it sure looks like I couldn't pay for them with the energy savings.

I don't know the manufacturer of my current windows, but I know of a local handyman who specializes in windows and doors, so I think I might just call him up. We originally didn't think about a "tune-up", but that's looking better and better!

BTW, on some of the "sticking" windows, I sprayed WD-40 in the tracks and they seemed to loosen them up quite a bit. I hope that wasn't the wrong thing to do with the wood.

Thanks again for the help.
Doug