You don't want to make a trapping cut against the fence. IOW, the top of the blade should be tipping away from the fence. And you should always cut with the workpiece against the fence, not the drop-off. It's important to plan out unusual cuts carefully with these basic rules in mind. They are not inviolate, but at least you can be mentally prepared when using the saw outside them.
Casey

Fence _board_ blade slanting away from fence_cutoff piece is the lineup.

:=====/= The part between the fence and blade can easily pop up if it jams, and the waste piece has an escape route

:=====\= Doing it this way catches the board between fence and blade. Bad idea.

If he does this often, buying a router bit with the slant he needs would be faster and more accurate.

http://www.toolstoday.com/p-4941-bevel-trim-router-bits-3-flute.aspx sells various bevels

All valid suggestions: also - a joiner would not be less accurate than a table saw given you use it properly, and would leave a truly straight surface.The problem with the saw is that you can force a piece through the cut, and create a 7 degrees on a bowed plank.Joiner not only will make the angle: it'll also leave a straight edge.Back to table saw,remember: anytime a cut seems dangerous it probably is.Like the previous posters pointed out, avoid the situation where the saw would pinch the piece into the fence thus creating kickback.If the piece is small use a proper pusher, some saws have one when you buy, if not copy an existing push stick so it will push and press down the piece at the same time.Don't just use whatever wood lays around for pushing. I once saw a very experienced woodworker who would push anything of smaller size with two push sticks. When asked about it he said that push-sticks are disposable, fingers are not.