Hmmmm, I know that you won't need the full 54" width to do your shower curtain, so rather than have a seam close to the middle, can you put one about 18" - 20" down from the top and have some trim such as tassel trim go in between? Or the trim and an inset of coordinating fabric?

I don't think it will look well without having it look intentional. Just seaming the two pieces together will not look good, IMO. Think of curtain panels that you may have seen with an inset of a different fabric and trim. A standard shower curtain is 72x72".

You're point's a good one My3Dogs, but I've already got the design angle covered -- as you suggest, 2 stripes of coordinating fabric about 20" from the top. I'll also be lining the curtain itself and adding an independent liner for water-proofing.

My question goes strictly to the 'drape' of the fabric --

I would expect to have a problem with the drape. It is not intended to drape horizontally and adding a different fabric may make this worse, particularly if the second fabric is a different weight/tightness of weave. Usually this type of fabric has "give" one direction only. You can test this. However, you really aren't going to know if it drapes nicely until you get it made up.
Diane

I would be concerned about the suitability of the silk & rayon in a wet, steamy environment. Is the fabric washable? You may want to test a piece in the bathroom and see how it reacts.
In answer to your question, as long as you stay perfectly on grain crosswise, I think it will drape fine. Cut off the selvage edges - do not try to cheat and use them as the clean finished edges. This fabric looks like a loosely woven fabric, I suggest you use a good lining, preshrunk, to help maintain the finished shape and nice drape. The aqua & taupe sounds pretty.

So one 'no' vote and one 'yes' with reservations...

Magothy - I'm actually not sure of the fabric content but am guessing based on the feel and hand. It's not the fabric shown, but is pretty similar, and yes, the weave is not especially tight -- though it is an upholstery fabric. And your comments about suitability are right on target, I know, but for some reason, this is something I'm set on. I'm curious about cutting off the selvedges though -- If you don't mind explaining, why do you suggest that? Is it because they may pucker?

Of course, it would be possible to run the fabric the 'traditional' direction -- though that would put the herringbones going cross-wise, and I'd worry about that looking more 'wrong' than the other...

The selvage edges are woven differently than the rest of the fabric. The crosswise threads (weft) are woven back onto themselves to form the finished selvages, if memory serves me correctly. Some of the fabric right next to the selvage may also need to be removed. Since you are running this fabric selvage edge at top and bottom (railroading) so the herringbone design goes up & down, you need to remove those selvages and establish the straight of grain - in your case crosswise grain. This is very, very important if you want it to hang properly.
I think you need to try & find out the fabric content. This is alot of work that could be ruined or even be stinky(!) with the first steamy shower.
Compatibility with the accent fabric may be an issue as well.

I wouldn't do it... and here's why: Even if you line up the vertical lines in the two halves perfectly, they are not going to stay lined up all the way across the seam that you stitch (because when on the sewing machine, the bottom layer and top layer of the fabric move at different speeds). This is going to make the seam *really* noticeable.
Lynn

Sounds like I may be in trouble on a couple of fronts...
(Though I've already bought the fabric, so have nothing to lose but my time.)

What about running the fabric the other way? How bad would that look, do you think?...

Which would you vote for? Grain sideways? or Pattern sideways?

I'm in the "no" camp for many reasons. But, as you say, you've already purchased the fabric so I guess you have nothing more to lose than what you've already spent. I'm not sure I'd line an upholstery weight shower curtain either.

Ellen

Here is a link that might be useful: Nouveau Stitch Home Dec Sewing Forum

I think it will match if you pin like crazy. You should buy some quilting pins with the head- they are heavier and longer something you may need with upholstery fabric.I mean pin every vertical line in between the herringbones all the way across. Mark your seam allowance on the back on one piecd. Then, with right sides together lay your fabric out so the pattern matches. To pin,I would start in the center- working out towards the sides. Match the vertical line- put the pin in vertically at the seam allowance- making sure it goes exactly in the line on both pieces, and bring the pin back up exactly thru the line on both pieces. You would need to do this at every line you want to match up. I am a quilter and this is the only way to make sure those pieced seams that intersect are perfectly matched. does that make sense? If you have an even feed foot on your machine that will also help. But you dont need one if you pin like that and also do not pull on the fabric- only gently guide it - no pulling.
Start sewing at one end,go very very slowly and carefully pull the pin out right before you get to it, as it is not good for your machine to run over the pins( although we all doit sometimes) this is about precise sewing not blasting through to get a seam done as we would do for typical straight seam.
The pinning sounds like a pain but it is worth it and doesnt take as long as "unsewing" or seam ripping , trust me.
Show us when you are finished. Have fun sounds neat. if this doesnt make sense let me know.

I didn't know there were so many fellow sewers here! --
More info:

- On the 'matching stripes' issue, I will have stripes of contrasting fabric separating the pieces of herringbone, so any slight mismatches will be covered and largely concealed. And yes, I've learned (the hard way) the value of obsessive pinning. ;-)

- My contrasting fabric is a taupe silk dupioni that is, admittedly, lighter weight than the herringbone. For that reason, I thought I'd include the silk in my seam - so three layers - then fold the silk either up or down against the herringbone and top-stitch it into place top and bottom.

- The fabric is what I'd call 'medium drapery weight' -- so not so heavy that I'll have trouble with it, and light enough to benefit from a lining.

- My 'big picture' plan is to build a, upholstered cornice over the tub edge, and hang the shower curtain behind that. My fixtures have an arch and stripe detail, and I'd replicate that arch on the cornice and stripe on the curtain.

So what about votes on grain/drape vrs. pattern issue?

I vote no, many reasons already listed before me. I'd also be worried about the fabrics you are using being suitable in the bathroom environment.

tina

Can you simply test the fabric's drape by hanging it for 24 hours (or a week if you have the time) and then comparing it to fabric that hasn't been hung to see whether it's stretched? Sorta like hanging a bias cut skirt up before hemming to let the bias set, if that makes any sense.

My Home Comforts bible-book states that herringbone is made from a twill weave, which is normally more durable than a comparable plain woven fabric. To me the fabric in your photo looks stretchy but I do trust that book.

do'oh! I knew you were adding fabric at seam line. I dont know what I was thinking.
I am not a good one to answer about draping, so I leave it to experts.

Lots of good information - thanks.
And I do understand there is a high degree of risk, but I've decided to use these fabrics anyway.

But still no direct answers to my revised specific question --
I will either:

A - Run the fabric horizontally so that the herringbone pattern runs vertically, or

B - Hang the fabric the 'normal' direction, but then the visible pattern runs across.

Which would you vote for? Grain sideways? (Option A) or Pattern sideways (Option B)?

'No' isn't allowed! ;-)

Option B - reasons: less chance for failure, definitely easier & no seams to worry about - still remove the selvages! I think the horizontal herringbone will add that unexpected look. Use your silk coordinate for the lining of the cornice board. Since the shower curtain header will be hidden behind the cornice - is the herringbone curtain stationary & just decorative? Needs to look pretty & finished from inside the tub as well.

Thanks for your vote Magothy --

Just to clarify, I'd still need seams to get the required width in that design, but then my 'accent stripes' would be vertical rather than horizontal. The back side of the herringbone/silk would be covered by both the main curtain lining (for body and drape) and the separate shower curtain liner for water-proofing.

As far as appearance from the inside, you'd see the waterproof shower curtain liner (white fabric) at the bottom, and at the top, either the back side of the cornice board (which would then have to be nicely finished and water-proof) and the curtain rod or an 'interior cornice' covering the curtain rod and hooks.

As far as curtain use goes, this is a guest bath, so I expect this bath will get pretty light use. And since the vent fan uses the same switch as the tub/shower light, the fan will be used whenever anyone showers.

sweeby, I think I am getting confused :) - Before you count my vote - Do you have enough of the herringbone to make a curtain without seams in either direction?

If the fabric is typical home dec fabric, the width is usually 54 - 60". A standard shower curtain measures 72x72, so she needs to seam it for both options.

My3Dogs is exactly right --
My curtain will be 72" wide x 84" tall, so I'll need a seam either way.

Hi sweeby,
I've been resisting voting because I am just so unsure of how this will work that I am nervous about encouraging you! But having said that... I think the horizontal stripes would be more attractive for the shower curtain. I'm having a hard time seeing it done vertically in my mind's eye....

Hope that helps..
Lynn

I must have missed how much fabric she has. My thought was she had at least 2+yards of 54"wide fabric + what was needed for the cornice. She would only have to seam it to get the 84" for her required length if she ran it crosswise.

I've got a five yard remnant - so just enough ;-)

I'll need either two vertical lengths (54" + 18" to get 72" wide) or two horizontal runs (54" + 30" to get 84" long.)