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staceyneil

Flooring conundrum! (with pics)

17 years ago

Would you all mind advising me on yet another material choice?

As some of you know, wrapped into our kitchen reno was the rebuilding of the adjacent LR/DR area. As you can see in the photos below, the kitchen opens directly into that space, although the LR/DR is two steps down.

The rest of the house has 50's red oak that was refinished ~2 years ago. We had to patch in new unfinished oak in the pantry area we created. (Excuse the horrendous mid-reno mess, PLEASE!)

We need to choose flooring for the adjacent LR/DR. Here's the thing: we may be selling the house in 2-3 years, so we want to be sure we make choices that have fairly broad appeal (in a pretty high-end market.) So..... the safest thing to do is to simply put in the exact same unfinished oak hardwood, and finish it when we do the pantry. That way the flooring will be consistent throughout (except for the tile areas). BUT my DH is doing the install, and he's not looking forward to doing that much square footage (the nailer is a b@#*ch to use, he says!) and is advocating for pre-finished hardwood instead.

So, one choice is prefinished red oak, with a "micro-bevel":

Pros- Easy to install

Cons- Cost = $1200

It may not look exactly the same as the rest because there will be a tiny bevel between the boards, not flush like actual unfinished hardwood plank.

Second choice- this cool product that my husband's ex-boss makes. It is actually strips of red oak, made into an engineered flooring product that is very popular in Europe. It's got a VERY thick layer of oak, so is completely re-finishable. It is the same wood as the original floors. It will look great with our modern furniture. BUT---- is it just too modern and out there for the average buyer? Main thing is: it is FREE.

Red Oak Strip

Pros- Same wood species

Did I mention it's FREE?!?!?!!!!!!!

Cons- Is it weird to have a different wood floor there?

is it too modern?

here are some pics:

There will be wide oak treads on the two steps between the adjoining rooms, so they would not be actually abutting each other.

What do you guys think??

with flash

without flash

kitchen

LR (bricks will be all slate behind woodstove)

from kitchen area down to LR/DR

Comments (11)

  • 17 years ago

    Coming from someone trying to patch an old floor - I'd really want to put in the exact same as the rest of the house. Or the closest to it as possible.

    Because my kitchen is pine, not oak like the rest of the house, I can't patch using flooring from a closet or somewhere else...I have to FIND pine that matches. Its been a BEAR. Not that this problem would occur at your house...but I'm just a big big fan of having the floor either match for real - or be completely different.

  • 17 years ago

    Not sure I understand your DH's complaint about the nailer and doing an install of pre-finished vs. site finished. ?? He would have to use it the same amount for either, yes?

    Anyway, I think the stuff in the pic would be fine. In the "flash" pic the tones are identical. The no-flash pic doesn't fully load for me. I don't think the format difference will be off-putting. Might even be kinda cool to have that room be slightly different.

  • 17 years ago

    I can't figure out the photos-- is the first photo the european-free stuff versus your flooring, and the second one is the european-free stuff by itself? Do you have a larger picture of the e-f stuff? It is a very similar color, which is great, but it's hard to tell otherwise. Is there a website for it?

    I had a similar conundrum with my kitchen remodel, for what went in the kitchen and laundry rooms. In the end I got reclaimed wood that exactly matches what I had. That is the safest choice, from a resale perspective (sorry, DH!). Mine is white oak, but very similar otherwise to your original flooring. Can you get some reclaimed flooring from somewhere? I got mine from three houses down when I went snooping around after they tore it down (seriously). It still has to be installed, of course, but reclaimed is fun and (sometimes) cheap.

    I would love to see more of the engineered stuff too, though, just out of curiosity!

  • 17 years ago

    stacey -
    I didn't follow about the nailer either - wouldn't it be same to install engineered vs prefinished

    Isn't there a choice 3? why not get red oak & do a site finish to be certain to match the rest of the house?
    Not a fan of any type of bevel in flooring - bevel = trapped dirt

    It is really difficult to tell from the photo - You would have to have a larger expanse of the 2 meeting to really be able to make an educated judgement

    If RE in your area is high end, and you do plan to sell relatively soon - I wouldn't scrimp on flooring, your remodel thus far appears lovely, and you don't want any install or application at this point that brings attention in a negative way -

    Good luck

  • 17 years ago

    This is just for the LR/DR? Go with the free stuff. It's close enough. It's a step down and a room that's flooded with natural light. The brain will read it as all the same taking into acct the step down and windows.

    If you don't have enough from your closets to patch the pantry area, then the choice isn't as easy.

  • 17 years ago

    Thanks guys-
    I am not sure why those pics didn't load properly. I will upload them again.

    RE: the nailer. To put in the actual plank hardwood he patched into the pantry area, DH used this apparatus that you have to manually swing. he used to be in the flooring business and has laid more than his share of floors, and he said it was grueling. He really doesn't want to do it again on 300 sq ft. And since he's also doing all the electrical, plumbing, and finish carpentry, I am not keen on insisting he do this as well (although, personally I think that is the right thing to do: match exactly what's here/.....) Anyway- the engineered stuff goes in with a pneumatic nail gun. The air compressor does all the work. Plus, less cutting since each board is wider. Plus, no sanding and finish application. He'd be doing all that himself.

    I'll re-load the pics and see if that helps. And i guess we should get a box of the Euro stuff and lay it down and see how it looks.

  • 17 years ago

    thanks laxsupermom-
    we actually already patched in the pantry area with new unfinished red oak- so that part will be fine. it's just the LR/DR area I'm debating now.

    If resale wasn't an issue, I would be totally fine with the free Euro stuff. It's cool looking, the same wood, and very high-quality material. My only concern is that it might be too mod for some buyers, and I would hate to have someone NOT buy the house because of it. On the other hand, our budget is SO tight and the $1200 saved there could go into something with a lot more impact, like a new entry porch and door!!!

  • 17 years ago

    Yes, get a box and lay it down and take a picture to show us :) It will be a lot easier to figure things out then. You may even find you want to use the same stuff but in a more different color, to make it clear you weren't trying to match.

    What is the name of the Euro stuff?

  • 17 years ago

    Rent or buy a good nailer. My dad found the one we used at a local pawn shop for 1/2 price. I used a Bostitch Pneumatic Staple Nailer to put down a room and a hallway. All I had to do was hook it to the airhose, slide the wood into place and lightly hit the hammer to the end of the Nailer. Nailers that use nails are a but more difficult, but the Bostitch was no problem -even for a girl like me! I had a find borrow it and he also felt it was MUCH easier to use than the nail type nailers.

    Here is a link to the one I am talking about: Bostitch Flooring Nailer

  • 17 years ago

    It is called Midtown Fineline by Great Northern hardwoods:

    I will look into that nailer, thanks!

  • 17 years ago

    I think the free stuff will be fine in there. Since new treads are to be installed you'll have the option open on those if a transition is needed, if at all.