Have you tried coating the doors w/ polyurethane? There are water-based product that's very easy to use. If the stain is tough to remove on white cabinets, try Mr. Clean magic eraser. I have painted cabinets for 4 different kitchens, but I never used Aura before so can't comment on its scrubability :-). However, I always coated the cabinets with polyurethane and they make cleaning up a breeze.

Also, once your paint is cured it's more durable. What finish of Aura did you get? If you get satin or semi-gloss, they should be easy to clean!

About the poly- I had heard that it yellows so I didn't think it would be good to use on white. Have you done poly over white?

The girl at the BM store talked me out of semigloss and told me to get eggshell because the Aura semigloss is more like a high gloss and the eggshell would be more like a semigloss. Now I wish I'd just gone with what I wanted in the first place. If I recoat with a semigloss do you think I would need to prime again?
Do you think that would help just using semigloss?

My island is painted in BM Aura -Caliente (red) over a base coat of Wenge. So far is has cleaned up just fine, but it is a darker color. If need be, I will have a coat of finish put on them, though.
I just noticed one spot today where it looks like the veneer is bubbling up-I'm not sure why that happened, but I doubt it has anything to do with the brand of paint.

How many coats of paint did you use? Paint does need a fairly long time to cure completely, too, before you can scrub it. Maybe it needs to be fully cured before it resists stains, too?

I don't have any advise just empathy. My cabs have a creamy white FACTORY finish and I have problems with stains. I have learned to live with it but if a stain is really bad I have touched it up. ( Touch-up marker came with my cabs). Tomato products are the worst, oh and red kool-aid.

I used 3 coats of Aura. They look absolutely beautiful and I LOVE the white. I just don't want to be a slave to the stains, always having to touch up. I'm thinking that I have a few options...

1.try to find a non yellowing poly to put over the eggshell (I just googled that and found some products, but need to research more and find a brand)
or,
2. Recoat with semigloss. I hate to spend the money on another gallon of paint but will if you all think it will solve the problem of stains.
3. Last resort, paint cabinets black and cry...

stepping stone. One more option for you:

Go out and get yourself the poly AND some wood stain. Wipe the stain over the white paint and then rub it off. Poly as you would normally over wood. This will give you the look of "antiqued" painted white cabs. Easier to keep clean (and every little stain will not show up), with a (modified) cottage look.

I hope that helps. :)

I *think* it is only polyeurathane that yellows. I *think* polyacrylic does not yellow. I bought mine at Lowes, Minwax brand.
S

I'm guessing that you aren't fully cured. But if you're interested in putting poly on them, I'm a huge fan of Benjamin Moore Stays Clear. It can be tinted if you'd like a stainlike look though you wouldn't want this with your cabs and goes on VERY very easily. Comes in a satin finish as well as the gloss.

I agree that things will go much easier and the paint will be more scrubbable once it is cured. There may be a cure time for the poly as well, so hard to know how much better off that would make you (as opposed to just waiting out the curing period very carefully...)

I definitely think if you like the white best, you should stick with a plan to make it work -- even if that means a coat of poly or another paint coat of semi. Check with BM for advice on which would give the best results stainwise. I think you would regret changing your color more than you would have trouble with stains in the long run.

Best wishes!

Why would you even consider painting them a color that you make you so unhappy. You'll find a solution to cleaning off the stain and a longer term solution to the finish. I"m confident of that. Meanwhile, enjoy you lovely WHITE kitchen!!

Yes, do paint out the spots and let the paint get really dry before you change it! Not only because curing is supposed to make it more scrubable, but I'd guess that being not cured probably makes it take on spots a lot more easily.

Have you thought about doing a different brand of paint? I have to confess, I've only heard good things about BM, but we usually use Sherwin Williams. I have scrubbed just about everything off of every color of SW, including the white, and never had an issue. I also think that if you love it, you should stick with the white. Give all the different suggestions a try- it's worth it if you love it.

I'm sorry you're having trouble--having gone through all that time and effort for your dream, only to have something mess it up! :-( I would highly suggest that you post your dilemma in the Paint Forum here and see if the resident paint experts have any more words of wisdom for you. I have learned so much from them in the past couple of years!

Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Web Paint Forum

If you did three coats -- did you give them plenty of drying time in between coats(each paint varies so you have to check what the manufacturer says)? If you rushed things, it will take the paint longer to cure. Even if you gave them plenty of time, it sounds like your paint was still too fresh. If it was less than a week from the time you painted that area and the time of the stain, I would give it another week or two before you do anything. Then do a test on the same area (so you have only one area to clean and repaint, if needed.

The Mr Clean Magic Eraser is a great cleaning tool and I would recommend trying one, but I thing I would wait to make sure the paint is completely cured first - then go lightly. If you over do it, you have more chance of changing the sheen in that area.

Ok, I think I'm going to call the BM store on Monday and talk to them, but my plan is to paint over the stains and then give it a few more weeks to see how it cures.Then I'll make the decision about either poly or semigloss.

I'm just not clear as to what to do if we get more stains in the next few weeks. Do I just leave them and hope they'll wash off after it cures or should I repaint over each stain- thus waiting longer and longer for it to cure! ARG! I'm going to be super careful, but I KNOW we'll get a few more stains!

There are non yellowing water based polyurethane/acrylic top coat.

I have used Modern masters brand. There are also Behr brand (comes in matte finish), and Minwax brand.

Some people does not like the sheen of poly top coat but it does make cleaning up a breeze. You can try painting a piece of scrap wood with aura, let dried, then top coat w/ poly to see if that's the finish you want. Then test it w/ tomato sauce and coffee & see if it is durable & scrubbable enough for you.

If you want to use the semi-gloss then you can sand lightly the painted surface to take the sheen off, and apply semigloss. I don't know a/b Aura product, but IME semi-gloss is difficult to apply w/ brush. Maybe I need more practice. :-D

Good luck & don't stress out too much :-D
HTH

I suspect the eggshell finish is your problem as much as anything. The more sheen your paint has, the more scrubbable it's going to be. I believe you only have to worry about oil based polys turning yellow. If you repaint the stain, put a stain blocker over it first so it doesn't bleed through.

Also, be very careful with a Magic Eraser. I thought it was amazing when I first tried one and I went around the house erasing everything. Then I realized it took some of the sheen off the semi-gloss paint on the doors and the a spot i cleaned on my cabinets (which had been cured for 18 years).

One thing to note is that you're using Aura paint, which is a different beast from most others. I have my whole house done in Aura in different sheens (mostly matte, kitchen walls are eggshell and bath is semigloss) and I can say that the Aura matte is actually easier to scrub than the Aura eggshell or semigloss. Their product info says this is because it has more ceramic in it? So depending on your sheen desire, you might actually go for the matte for another coat.

But I wanted to encourage you to try the Aura 'Bath and Spa' formula which is a brand-new product and made especially to withstand moisture and stains. You can have it made up in the same BM and affinity colors as the other Auras. A friend just tried it in her kitchen (walls) and has been raving about it.

If you're intent on doing a poly layer, another product I can recommend is a poly finish called PolyWhey by Vermont Coatings. It's waterborne and uses whey (of all things) rather than petrochemicals. I just used the satin on my stairway, and it's amazing! Each coat dried in an hour, it's super easy to apply, and they claim it's twice as hard as regular poly. Since it's waterborne it is non-yellowing. And the best part is that there is NO odor at all. (Just thought I'd throw that in if you've got kids or creatures sensitive to the smells.) It's pricey, but I think I'm a convert and won't ever use regular poly again.

I'm so sorry for the paint stress, it stinks when things don't perform as expected, and there are enough other worries to deal with in a kitchen remodel.

In any case, pictures of the fresh white cabs! We demand pictures! :-)

from the Aura literature:
"Benjamin Moore New Aura Bath and Spa Paint Gallon Matte Finish. This brand new paint extends the new revolutionary color science technology of Aura to offer superior bathroom and spa paint in a matte finish. Now you have achieved features and benefits previously unavailable in paint. This new paint offers guaranteed two-coat coverage with any color over even an unprimed new sheetrock wall. It is super durable, low odor, super coverage, super-time saving paint!
Baths and Spas require a special kind of paint. Wet environments like bathrooms and spas place extra demands on paint and need extra durability, more mildew resistance, more washability and resistance to surfactant leaching.

If you have bathroom with a shower, more than likely you've noticed drip marks on the wall that just doesn't come off. This is due to two things: first, the water itself has minerals in it that remain on the surface once the water evaporates. And second, the water leaches surfactants from the paint film. These surfactants come from the universal colorants that paint companies use to tint colors. The Benjamin Moore Aura Bath and Spa paint uses revolutionary new paint technology that doesn't rely on surfactants and therefore won't create these drip marks. Moreover, this new paint is extra washable and durable and therefore will improve your ability to remove any mineral deposit build up from your walls. It is also super mildew resistant."

Here is a link that might be useful: PolyWhey

Don't give up on your white cabinets - you'll find a way to make it work. It may very well be that the paint didn't cure yet, especially if painted & dried in humidity above 35%, not enough drying time between coats, or if the wood itself was more than 15% moisture content when the first coat went on, those sort of conditions. (A moisture meter for wood is very handy if you paint.) Maybe a dehumidifier running in the kitchen would help the paint cure more evenly & quickly.

Paints of Europe has info about painting kitchen cabinets. Haven't done mine, but experience with their instructions (Specifier's Manual - which has a section specifically for kitchen cabinets), exterior & interior paints left me a fan. You can request their free literature online, which is a good education on painting techniques & products. Their paint is pricey, but it is wonderfully durable stuff. They have a fellow who answers calls & is great. He may know the solution to your problem even though you didn't use their paint.
http://www.finepaintsofeurope.com/color_guidance.aspx
I have no connection with this company - just love their paint! & their attitude.

The best thing I've found to clean my 18-year old painted white cupboards (still looking great with their original factory finish) is Wright's Silver Cream, of all things. Wright's doesn't list painted surfaces on their website, but I've been using it on the cabinets for 10 years now & lt hasn't affected the semigloss finish. A very gentle wipe with just a smidge of their cream, wiped off with a damp paper towel & buffed with a dry one takes off even dried-on grunge for me. Great on stainless steel & chrome, glass counters & cooktops, even my white fridge. It would be my first choice in attempting to remove the stains. May be worth a shot. http://www.jawright.com/products/uses.asp

Just throwing out some suggestions. You'll figure out how to fix it!

Circuspeanut, where did you get your PolyWhey? Is it something I can pick up at Maine Hardware? I am going to be painting our pantry cabinets (new) and am researching what products to use.

hey Stacey,

(and congrats, by the way, for your door score up at the MBME! It's where I got all mine last year - also Rogue Valley fir - and they are fabulous.)

I got the PolyWhey at Rockler Woodworking, down by the Mall. I did tell the guys at Maine hardware to think about carrying it (I feel like I live there, and it's closer to my house). It's not cheap, but it's pretty awesome.

ooh- what doors did you get? I was so psyched: 5-panel square sticking shaker primed white and flat-sticking 3-panel and 4-panel fir closet doors. They were having a big sale so they were $15 each. Saved me, lets see (I'd just priced them at Rufus Deering) about $2000! Well, to be fair, it basically allowed me to get new doors this year rather than years down the road when I had more money.... :)

This is way OT (sorry, original poster!)....

I've painted the oak cabinets in two kitchens a light cream. I used a melamine (stinky) oil paint. No trouble with stains. My understanding is that all paints (wall) take something around 30 days to cure (and to not scrub them, or use soap and water until then - but if I had tomato sauce dripping down a cupboard, I'd be tempted anyway). I think that I would let some time pass, let the paint cure before attempting any recoating. You may find yourself lightly rolling the whole cabinet to make it blend (assuming that you are using the same sheen).

I went nuts with magic erasers....once....at my parents' house. Wiped around all light switches etc. And left a permanent wipe mark in their walls(didn't happen in my last two houses as I've only used matte finishes on the walls and usually touch up stubborn marks w a wee bit of paint)

Going to sound crazy...but try a Huggie's baby wipe to get the stain off the cabinets. It's unbelievable what those wipes will clean up--permanent marker, grease stains, tomato stains, hair color, and the list goes on--oh yeah let's not forget baby bottoms too! Good luck to you!

I would apply a coat of furniture wax to the cabinets near the stove, though I'm not sure if it's a good idea until the paint cures.

I wonder if the paint was really dry. I have heard some paints
take 6 weeks to really set. Did you dry between coats? Did
you use a primer? Is the stain surface or did it take off
coats of paint?

Don't give up yet.

Can you touch up ever so gently with a brush?

I painted my cabs and the floor guys got a tiny bit of
stain or sealer on the lower part of three of my cabs.
I have had to lightly sand, prime and paint with a tiny
brush.

I did not use a fancy paint to do my project. I used Behr
Primer (purple can) and Behr masonry paint . I contacted
SW, BM and Behr was the only company that walked me through
what would work to cover thermafoil. BM and SW discouraged
me. Behr was supportive and told me the pros and cons.
I think paints with a low Voc can be more delicate than
some of the old fashioned bad for the environment products.
Normally I am very green concerned but because my cabs
were thermafoil I needed a product to really cover them.

I have a busy home, active kids, messy cooks and I have
no issue with stains on my cabinets. Don't give up on
white yet. Just wait to see if something can be done first
and give it a few more weeks to see how the paint holds up.
Aura paints have a super reputation. MAybe BM can advise too.

~boxerpups

Hey! So first, don’t worry, you’re not alone- painting cabinets DIY is neverrr a good idea. We can’t tell you how many times we’ve had to fix cabinets that were DIY’d. Homeowners are always surprised how it turned out wrong... The reality is, cabinet painting requires trained professionals. Not everyone can do it, and that’s okay. Most people generally wouldn’t represent themselves in a legal matter, diagnose yourself during a medical checkup, or do your own accounting unless they’ve received training in those fields. The same is true of painting cabinets.

Secondly, did you remove hardware, degloss, sand, and use an oil primer and let it cure 2-3 days prior to painting? If not, then you unfortunately will likely have bigger problems than food on cabinets, such as peeling...

Third, Benjamin Moore aura is overpriced, to begin with, and it’s also not a cabinet paint, it’s a wall paint. Cabinet paints from BM are their Advance, but an equally good one is the Sherwin Williams Pro-Classic. A good cabinet paint has more enamel in the paint and is specially made to be applied and look good on wood.

Fourth, if it’s not cleaning easily, you probably used a finish with too little gloss in the paint. It’s recommended to use semigloss for cabinets... if going below semigloss for aesthetics reasons (like satin, low luster, or matte), then you should use 2 coats of a water based polyurethane topcoated on top of the paint, in order to protect and seal the cabinets.

At this point, the best course would be to hire a pro to repaint the entire section that was unfortunately discolored by the food, and then have the pro apply a poly topcoat over all the cabinets to protect them from future issues. Best of luck!

Old, old thread.

True! It showed up in my new for some reason