I would want the sides of the range to be level with the countertop. You could raise the wolf up on boards I guess, but then you have to think about how will you slide or lift it into place. What happens if you have to pull it out for some reason? What is along this run of countertop? Can you have the cabinets along this run shorter so the counter is level with the wolf, while the other areas have the taller height?

Just block it up on 2x lumber on each side under the feet of the unit.

You put the range in position in front of the counter, them tip it forwards and put short blocking pices under the rear feet.
Slide the range in and remove the short pieces.

Thge only safety issue is poasaible clearance to flammable surfaces above and to each side of the burner surface.

18 inches clearance to adjacent but above the surface (the cabinets on each side of the range hood) is a typical requirement.

The range is flanked by windows (like breezygirl's kitchen) so their are no upper cabinets to contend with. My concern was putting the range on some sort of platform (safety) so that it is high enough to clear the adjacent counters and what that would actually look like (aesthetic). Would it look odd to have so much clearance below the range?

We currently have 37.5" tile countertops with an old (1980's) electric range/oven. There is a small drawer underneath it so that the height works. It looks fine, but with the Wolf the height of the actual appliance is greater and I was trying to envision how it would work in this new kitchen (this is new construction - not a remodel of the existing space).

There is another thread (I couldn't find) about whether the cabinets get put in first and then the floor installed to the cabinets or if the floor gets installed first and the cabinets placed on top of the floor. If it is the first scenario, then I will gain some height from the floor. (Can someone point me to that thread?)

I really don't want to switch to a rangetop. We've been back and forth so many times and I finally thought I had it all laid out properly with my desired appliances that will work for the space I have. It will be challenging to find space for a wall oven :(

Thanks for any advice! Pictures would be greatly appreciated.

Laura--here's a link to an Internet search with lots of threads on flooring/cab order.

Here is a link that might be useful: Threads on flooring/cab order

I think if you make the plinth upon which you set the range look intentional, it would be fine. In my book, "intentional" means that the front face of the plinth is finished in something that matches the toe kicks or the range (perhaps SS).

Thanks for the link breezygirl!
Angie_DIY - what a great idea! It's 2" to contend with so a 2" SS plate/plinth might do the trick and if done correctly it might actually look like part of the range itself. Will speak with my cabinet maker about it.
Thanks so much!!

Moving a 400 pound range on and off of floor blocking to be able to clean under is is not my idea of fun. You also need to periodically pull a range out to exercise the gas shut of valve occasionally, like at least 2x a year. (Even though most people don't do this, it should be done.) You'd need to purchase an air sled in order to be able to do it when you want.

I went over to the appliance showroom today to ask about it and look at the unit again. With the AG model, there is a grate/vent to the floor which is essentially flush with the front of the appliance so putting it on a platform with a plinth/plate could work. The rep noted that the range has legs in the front but the back is on wheels so that might make it a little easier to maneuver if we need to remove it. I think it will be very important to have the plinth work like the toe kick and go straight to the floor as to avoid having food crumbs, etc. swept beneath it.

On a side note though (and another thread topic altogether) I re-measured the countertops just to be sure that 38" works. There happen to be 36", 37" and 38" displays in the showroom so I tested them all out again. 37" felt just a little too short and 38" a little too high. Our current countertop is 37.5 and that feels just right (I sound like Little Red Riding Hood!). Our plans are already spec'd at 38" but I guess now is the time to make the change before everything starts getting built. We have counter height windows so it's really important for me to get this right as precision is key!

You also need to periodically pull a range out to exercise the gas shut of valve occasionally

I positioned mine at near the floor height, so I can reach it with the range in place.

Hi dljmth, I would love to know how your kitchen turned out. I am remodeling mine and currently have 38" countertops that work perfectly for me as I'm tall. I am switching from a Bosch range top to a Wolf 30" AG range and I'm facing the same problem you had. The adjustable legs will only raise it to 37" (bullnose height). How did you end up solving the issue of raising the range and finishing the raised area with some sort of trim? The Wolf gas ranges come with a stainless steel kickplate accessory but there would still be a 1" space beneath it if I platformed the range to raise it one inch. I liked the discussion about making the plinth or kickplate look "intentional" and am trying to figure out how to do that.

We wound up making our countertops 37" - just the max height the Wolf Range would adjust to. We measured and measured and looked at the different options and decided it wasn't worth the hassle. Turns out 37" is really fine for us.