butcher block countertop finishing

12 years ago

I apologize in advance if this topic has been covered already. I did a search but didn't find an answer to my specific question. We are putting Ikea Numerar oak counter tops in the kitchen and after reading many threads here (and blog posts and so on elsewhere) about the pros and cons of a Waterlox type finish vs. oil finish, I'm pretty sure I want to go the oil-it-every-few-weeks route. I just like the soft look and feel of oiled wood more than a finish that looks like a finish if you know what I mean.

However, I read in several discussions about Waterlox that you need to finish the bottom side of the counter as well as the top so that the wood doesn't absorb more moisture through the bottom and warp. Is the same thing necessary if we are just going to oil it? We obviously won't be able to keep oiling the bottom side after they're installed.

If you have oiled wood counter tops, could you post whether you oiled both sides and if you've had any trouble with warping after installation? We will put a moisture barrier above the dishwasher, and are planning to use just plain mineral oil (unless someone knows of a good reason to use a different type of oil)

Thanks!

Featured Answer

2LittleFishies

12 years ago

Email I just got from woman at Craft Art.
They sell Homeowners DIY tops and serious DIY tops.

"On the Homeowner DIY product, we actually pre-oil both sides with one coat. Because it already has the one coat on the bottom side, you do not have to do any additional coats on the bottom side.
Ã¯Â¿Â½ If you have an overhang, you may want to do additional sanding on that area, but not extra oiling on the bottom is required.
Ã¯Â¿Â½ On the Serious DIY product, no oil is pre-applied, and we do recommend one coat on the bottom side."

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Comments (14)

paulflyboy
12 years ago
I'm sorry I can't help with the oil part, but I have used Waterlox on a maple butcher block above our dishwasher. I did 3 coats on each side and attached it to the plywood above the dishwasher. We never had any problems with it warping or anything like that. The finish on it was very shiny.

Again, sorry I can't be much help on the oiling part.
2LittleFishies
12 years ago
We are doing oil and I was wondering this as well!
I'll get on this and let u know!
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Audry Barber
Original Author
12 years ago
Thanks 2LittleFishies. I think the ikea tops say they are pre-oiled as well, but it probably wouldn't hurt to do one coat before installing...
cjhenson
12 years ago
I have had a maple butcher block counter on my island for years. Initially we put a finish( probably polyurethane) on the bottom to seal it and prevent it from warping and we oiled the top with mineral oil. We have never finished the bottom again and we periodically oil the top. It is still beautiful and useful after 25 years. We are now remodeling and will be replacing it with Quartz but I still love it and I am thinking of turning it into a server or table for the new Kitchen.
meganmca
12 years ago
It's standard woodworking advice, not just countertops; finish both sides. In New England, we get such huge ranges in humidity between summer & winter that if one side is unfinished & one is finished, you can get uneven expansion & contraction, which will, of course, mean warping. But, ditto the others--my outdoor-porch cabinet that I made with wood, I oiled it carefully inside & out when I first made it, but haven't done anything on the inside since & it's still fine. I re-oil the outside every year.
stephsgarden
12 years ago
I had a butcherblock top in a house in Maryland. It was finished with boos mystery oil on just one side. No warping at all in the 4 years we lived there. It was not over a dishwasher, or near a sink, however.

I am in the process of installing butcherblock our current kitchen in very hot South Florida. It is stained with gel stain and has 6 coats of wipe on poly. We did not finish the other side, but plan to cover the underside aluminum foil over the dishwasher. This was recommended on the devoos (spelling may be off) butcherblock website.
I have refinished lots of furniture over the years, and have NEVER refinished the inside of the piece, or the underside of the top (including dining tables). If you look under your dining room table, it probably is not finished on the underside either. If the piece is properly constructed, it will not warp. The same is true for butcherblock. If properly installed (screwed down)and it isn't abused with water or other wild environmental changes, it should be OK. If you read the FAQs on the Waterlox page, it says coating the underside is not necessary.

I know people here have different opinions, but I don't think it is necessary based on my experiences. But if it brings you peace of mind, by all means do it. You don't want to kick yourself years from now if there is a problem that could have been so easily avoided. Good luck!
2LittleFishies
12 years ago
Great information! Thanks so much : )
Audry Barber
Original Author
12 years ago
Ditto, thank you everyone
User
12 years ago
Definitely seal it well on the top side, bottom side, the side sides, AND the inside of any cut openings ...

I had an IKEA countertop I was testing things on, and did not seal the underside.

It developed a bow in it when the unsealed side absorbed moisture from the air (in Phoenix AZ!). If I placed a straightedge across the countertop, the middle was easily 1/2 inch or more lower than the edges.
marcolo
12 years ago
Zero chance I would allow anyone to blow off finishing all sides in the Northeast. Florida cannot come close to our range of humidity. And it's especially important if a sink is involved.
anrol
12 years ago
I saw a program on TV today where they were installing a butcherblock countertop. They were oiling both sides. I would say to do any cut outs too.
2LittleFishies
12 years ago
Makes sense to oil all sides but being the oil dries up so quickly I'm kind of surprised it makes a difference. I know they say the first year requires a LOT of oiling on the exposed side and then it gets to be less and less...

So, it seems one or two coats on the bottom would dry up anyway?
peonybush
12 years ago
I have butcher block in my pantry. I use a product called Howard Butcher Block Conditioner. It's a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil. You need to warm it and then apply. Initially it took 4 coats and now I just apply when I think it's starting to look a little dry. I did not wax the underneath.
It has a matte finish. Runs about $9/bottle. I did find it on both Amazon and then found it at Home Depot too.