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redbankrenovation

Almost final kitchen layout

16 years ago

Hello, we've seen some other people do this so we figured we'd submit our kitchen layout before we place the order for the cabinets. The new addition is framed and we've already ordered our appliances. Cabinets are our next big step. We'd love to catch any major flaws before we move forward.

Thanks for your feedback

Here is a link that might be useful: Our renovation blog

Comments (27)

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    There are lots of experts on here so I'm sure you will get a lot of good advice.

    Personally, I wouldn't like losing so much space to the corner fridge. I'd much rather have it at the end of the right side cabinet run where the 18" cabinet is... recess it into the pantry so that it is flush with your cabinetry and switch the door swing on the pantry so that the bump out is hidden.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I think homeagain has a good point. You could have a lot more storage if you moved it to that end. You could even bump it into the pantry by 6 inches and get the appearance of counter depth/built-in with the price of a regular fridge. My layout with 8 foot island is very similar with exception of it being L rather than U.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I also have a problem with the amount of room the corner fridge takes up.

    I don't think you have enoungh counterspace directly to each side of the range to take a pot off the stove quickly, 9" isn't really enough. I would make the glass door cabinets a bit narrower and the hearth a bit wider to give you more set down space to the sides of the range.

    Why a single 12" and a single 15" over the DW? Make the upper a a single 30" and the lower next to the DW a 15". IT will still line up.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    If you moved the fridge, you could pull the range to the right some and center it in front of the island. That might give a nice symmetrical look to those seated there. And possible get some 30 or 36" base drawers on both sides.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    It seems you have a lot of small cabinets and a lot of wasted space with that fridge. It may come back to bite you when you don't have enough room for everything nearby but instead, have to constantly be shlepping into the pantry. I'd rethink your kitchen space. I'm also not understanding where your tv is going to be? Is it above the fridge? Aren't you worried about vibration and the need for heat dissipation?

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I agree with the above.....

    The corner fridge takes up too much space that could be additional storage and countertop space....and there does seems to be alot of small cabinets....why cant the 12" and 15" wall cabinets (to the left of the window over the sink) be one single 27" wide, 2 door cabinet? Could you go with a 36" or even 39" sink base....most sinks fit within these two sizes, unless you are going for an extremely large, oversized sink.

    I would definitely put the fridge flat on the side wall (that is shared with the pantry) towards the end. This way to add another corner base cabinet and then bring the entire "range set up" down and use wider cabinets that store larger things usually kept in a kitchen.

    Also, instead of having 2 separate 18" cabinets on either side of the range (I think you did this becuase you only wanted one of them to be glass fronted) you could have one 36" wall cabinet on either side of the range, and just install glass in the door closest to the range.

    But I think moving the fridge to the pantry wall and pulling the range set up down, will allow you more wall cabinetry and then you can put glass in the cabinets closet to the range, without limited them to small 18" wide cabinets

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Can someone please explain to me how to post jpeg images directly on the post (as done above)? I did a layout for redbankrenovation and would love to show all of you but I cant figure out how to post it directly...,thanks

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Here is an example of some of the things people, including myself, have mentioned

    - A few things.....I wasnt sure of some of the exact measurements, so I kind of estimated based on the measurements you've shown.
    - If this seems to be too many cabinets, then of course, take what you dont need out...this is just a suggestion
    - The 42" sink base was kept.....based on window placement and the corner cabinet, it fit the best
    - I added the 12" base cabinets to the back of the island, but they could be removed
    - If you'd like, you seem to have room for a larger fridge...42" maybe? I also added 3" pilasters on either side of the fridge to match the legs you have on either side of the sink and range. I also placed 3" legs at the corners of the island to make it appear more like an oversized piece of furniture
    - I stepped the height of the wall cabinets for interest, but they all can be the same height, either going up to the ceiling or stopping below the ceiling
    - I added a 6" crown and undercabinet light rail molding for interest
    - Only 2 wall cabinets show glass, but of course there could be more
    - I have OCD when it comes to symmetrical design, so thats why the elevation is perfectly symmetrical
    - I increased you original 12" base cabinet (to the left of the dishwasher) becuase it appears you have plenty room...

    Hope this helps!

    Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:1951443}}

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Here is the floorplan that corresponds to the above elevation

    Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:1951444}}

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Here the elevation and floorplan pics directly on the post...

    {{gwi:1951443}}


    {{gwi:1951444}}

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I like the symmetry that archista is going for. I'd probably want to do lowers around the range like - 18-30-30 -range - 30 30 18 , where the 30's are 3 drawer stacks and the 18s 4.

    I haven't studied the uppers yet though. The 30's next to the range might be good in glass and the rest doors.. although then mayb 15-30-30 -range - 30-30-15 works better and the corners get adjusted...

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Oh wow! We weren't expecting all of this. What a great community. Our 2yo had us running around last night so we didn't get a chance to review these posts but we sure will today. Thank you so much for feedback and archnista, wow! you didn't have to do all of that.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Hmm - I also didn't understand the angled fridge until I realized you are giving precedence to the TV, which is counter-traditional. Most kitchen tvs are a squeezed in after thought. Is this your main family tv? I wonder if you could put a flat screen behind the cabinets over the range in archnista's (very attractive!) drawing - and get your symmetry and extra cabs as well as prominent large tv. The cook's view might suffer, and the heat of the tv would have to be carefully managed. Maybe better to keep it over the fridge, but put it on an angle. Too bad they don't have a fridge with a flat screen in the door.

    only you can decide how much prominence the TV deserves, and what you are willing to sacrifice to place it well.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Actually I believe they do have a flat screen in the door now. Not sure who, but I could swear I saw it somewhere. Love what Archnista did except I'd get even more room in the lower corners by not doing the angled doors and instead doing the rev-a-shelf corner unit that pulls out. That will give you an extra cabinet next to the fridge that could be used to store trays, etc or other small stuff. Again, here's the link to rev-a-shelf. No need then for the angled corner

    Here is a link that might be useful: rev-a-shelf corner storage

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Here's the change I made using the rev-a-shelfs in the corner cabinets. That would give you two pull-outs and then the two cabinets on the cooking wall could be 24" base cabinets.
    {{gwi:1951452}}

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Why can't the tv be put near the desk area or on the wall between the two sets of windows? Anyway, if it's above the fridge I'd be concerned about heat, etc as I said plus if they put one up so high, they would have to get a plasma TV so as not to lose any of the picture like you would with an LED. Personally I wouldn't want all that heat being generated in one area from the tv and the fridge.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Couple of other points...

    If the pantry is removed, where will you store food? This is a little complicated for words so the drawing is a thought for the entrance, desk area and another possible pantry.

    {{gwi:1951453}}

    Small thing - your television over the ref would add about 30" to its starting height of 72-74 inches. That's kinda high.

    Small thing - I'd choose a slider or a single door with a sidelight if our positions were reversed. I'd also think about adding a solar tube in the opening area and the non-window end of the kitchen, or maybe a small skylight. With a 6-7 foot french door, even with out swing, you have a pretty big area on both sides of the door you need to keep clear of furniture - 6-7 feet on the smaller side and 12-14 feet on the opening side.

    Small thing, positions of the appliances. Generally speaking, most measurements are from cabinet to cabinet thinking a cabinet is 24" deep. But an aisle is measured counter to counter and when cabinets are on both sides, is about 3" narrower. So where you show 42" aisles, be aware that they will probably turn out to be 39" aisles.

    Plan on the dw door sticking out into the aisle about 27". I'd also plan on opening the microwave during prep and that it might be used by a different person than the chef. Two butts and an open drawer and the oven door in 39" may not lead to a peaceful life. I'd move the micro so it opened elsewhere.

    The lecture :)
    I'm guessing you've retained a formal dining area elsewhere in the house? This dining space is about 12-1/2 feet wide by 20 feet long including the desk space and the counter stool space.

    If this is your only dining area be aware of a couple measurements (you probably are already, so forgive the lecture). Tables and chairs and stools take a lot of space. A way to think about it is the ABSOLUTE minimum size to be able to USE both sides of the table is the table width plus 64 inches (call it 5-1/2 feet). So, if you have a 3-1/2 foot wide table - that's nine feet. If you have three or more chairs per side, at that spacing, somebody will need to get out of their chair to allow a person to enter or exit the center chairs (good enough for holiday meals, not ok for everyday use). In your case, it would only be the center seats on the window wall that would be short-changed.

    For the table length, if rectangular and seats 6, its around 5-6 feet long plus the same 5-1/2 foot distance to allow for the two end chairs or 10-1/2 to 11-1/2 feet. If it seats 8, its about another 2 feet or 12-1/2 to 13-1/2 feet.

    You need an aisle between the end chairs and the french doors and the desk chair of about 36", you need an aisle between the dining chairs and the counter stools and the counter stool space will encroach on the dining room.

    Some of the aisle space can be shared with "chair space" - about 8 inches. The 8 inches represents the extra room needed to become seated, but isn't used when the person is in the chair. Because its handier to keep using round numbers, we'll refer to the table and chair space as 9 feet deep and the aisle between these chairs and the counters stools as 30" wide. With the caveat that when both sides are occupied, we'll have almost 36" to walk through in our aisle.

    Whew, right? So the table and chairs take about 9 feet in width and we add the 2-1/2 feet for an aisle (11-1/2 feet) and we have one foot left for the counter stools before the edge of the island top. We need TWO feet to allow for a person seated in the stool - so you got something to think about - is it ok that when both are filled, there is only a two foot wide walk space between the chairs and stools?

    We can also use that as the aisle at the two table ends. If we're planning on seating 6, we add 5 feet to what we had above for an approximate total of 15-1/2 to 16-1/2 feet, for seating 8, about 17-18 feet. You're good to go with seating for 6 - about 3-1/2 to 4-1/2 feet remain for the desk and its chair. But if you do seat 8 or more, the two end positions may be up against the desk or the glass door and everyone seated on the window wall might have trouble getting to/from their chairs.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Wow. So much to digest and all this time I've been trying to re-work my diagram to take the advice that I've seen so far and to move the fridge.

    A couple of quick answers because I don't want to distract from the revised diagram.

    1. We do want to keep the walk in pantry and of the 25' addition that pantry takes 5'.

    2. With the walk in pantry the wall where the range is is 20' long.

    3. TV is not key. It was an afterthought after we saw the space above fridge in the corner. We may not even need one in kitchen.

    4. We really like the glass doors in the cabs next to the hearth.

    5. Appliances are already purchased.

    Maybe we can raise the crown on the two corner cabs to match the height of the hearth?

    Thank you all so much

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I think you have alot going on in the island which will be conflicting with the range. Imagine someone trying to prep(using the sink and pull out trash) while someone is trying to get to the microwave. I would either swap the sink and micro(not my first choice because you then have smaller amounts of counter space on either side of the sink, instead of 1 large expanse), or find another spot for the micro. What about if you eliminated the corner cabs and made them regular cabinets. Maybe you could fit the micro to the left of the frig. Or, if there's not enough space, can you extend the pantry wall to give you more room there for the micro. You have a pretty big opening to the LR.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I love the last drawing. I think the repositioned fridge is great as is the symmetry with the range and island. I also really like the angled corner cabinets - I think having them at 90 degress would make the room very square. To me the angles add a lot to the beauty of the design. It's a gorgeous kitchen.

    I agree that the microwave is kind of in a difficult spot. It might be better between the range and fridge along that wall. If it was me, I'd probably sell or return the drawer unit and go with a unit that go install in the cabinet above the dishwasher. That's an area where a little extra depth won't hurt the design.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    If you inset the ref into the pantry, the pantry becomes Subtract one foot for shelves on one side and the entrance door with trim can be at most 28" wide - with the door itself maybe 20-22"?

    You might want to have it open out of the room. A door with a pair of knobs is a surprising 7-10" thick. That would reduce the width of the aisle inside of the first half of the pantry from 28" to about 24".

    If you feel ready to scream right now, its ok. Remember everyone wants you to have the best kitchen possible and not yell at spouse or contractor because it didn't turn out to fit the dream you hold inside. You might feel we're criticizing the dream or your planning, but really its just the design on paper.

    If we can, we'd like to help your dream kitchen become real.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    We don't feel like anyone is trouncing our dream kitchen. This is the kind of stuff we need to hear.

    There is a lot to digest in these posts. We appreciate everyone's feedback.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Looks like you're getting lots of great advice. IMO, get frig out of corner and recess to have flush standard depth. Next, use as many larger drawers as you can in base units--more efficient storage than small cabs even if they have ROTS. Finally, you can extend counters about another foot or so toward french doors. Also, moving cooktop down to center is great idea.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Sorry, forgot one other thing. Many people on this forum like the window to be flush with the counter and even put in a garden or shallow bay there. I wish I had done that when we put in new windows a few years ago.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Here's another idea that could help you avoid the problem bmorepanic mentioned about the door taking up too much space inside the pantry. Could you make the end panel next to the fridge a wall instead so you could put a pocket door on the pantry?

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Re: holligator pocket door

    Would that wall just be painted to match the paint in the rest of the room or would we still cover it with cabinet material?

    I like the idea of the pocket door.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    We're still digesting everything in this post. We're pretty close to placing the order and we just wanted to share the revised layout.

    Thanks again to everyone who gave feedback. Great stuff.

    Here is the revised plan and a rendering

    (The window above the sink is not reflected well in the rendering. The actual window is 48" and the molding is about 6" on each side, so we do fill in the space better than what the rendering shows.)