I need 18 and 21" depth cabs.
I made them and when I had $$, I ordered them from theCabinetJoint.com (Brian), and thru DirectBuy, Norcroft.

I don't know anyone who makes a 14" but them.

Sorry.
C.

tanajo, Try doing a Google search for "rta cabinets gardenweb".
You'll find several threads.

Scherr's will make custom RTA cabinets. These are high-quality, ready-to-assemble frameless cabinets. Not too difficult to assemble if you are at all handy. Fully custom sizing, reasonably priced, all 3/4" construction, you can upgrade to plywood, and the company is easy to work with.

Here is a link that might be useful: Scherr's RTA cabinets.

To save a few $$, you can mix Scherr's custom uppers with IKEA bases and use Scherr's doors/drawer fronts on all of them. Scherr's has all the IKEA cabinet dimensions already; they just need to know the IKEA model #s.

By the way, I think 14" uppers over a 24" base will be a bit "top heavy" looking. Can you use deeper base cabinets? If you get 26" deep bases from Scherr's, your drawers will be 3" deeper (24" instead of 21").

Peterh2:ngreatbpoint, I hadn't thought of that. Wanted to bring them out to soffit depth but thinking it might not be worth it if I'm going to sacrifice form and function!

IKEA uppers are approx 13" deep with the doors (12" without) -- rather than the added expense of custom, you could just add a piece of moulding at the top to fill the space between the edge of the soffit and the cabinet. You would be putting a piece of trim up there anyway.

There is also a way to attach the wall rail (that you hang the cabinets on)to a spacer mounted to the studs, pushing the cabinets out flush with the soffit. The spacer would then be covered with the side panels. Check out ikeafans.com -- I'm pretty sure I saw posts about this issue there.

Or you could just remove the soffits and take your cabinets up to the ceiling - that's what I did. It wasn't anywhere near as big an undertaking as I thought it would be.

"Can anyone recommend some great knock down cabinets"

this is an oxymoron.

KD hardware is never as strong as correctly made wood to wood joints.

It always results in compromise.

"KD hardware is never as strong as correctly made wood to wood joints."

So what - good quality RTA cabinets that have been assembled and installed competently are far stronger and more durable than they need to be, and will last decades. Just like good quality particleboard is more than adequate for the task. Millions of European kitchens use these methods and materials without problems.

"So what - good quality RTA cabinets that have been assembled and installed competently are far stronger and more durable than they need to be, and will last decades. "

They will not last as long as none KD cabinets.
they come from a culture that takes their cabinets with them when they move.

The quality of hinges, drawer guides, etc. Are rarely as good as none KD cabinets.

"They will not last as long as none KD cabinets."

That is true of cabinets built by a skilled cabinet maker from premium materials. From what I have seen, I doubt it's true of most cabinets in the market (even the "premium" brands). Anyhow, most of us are not trying to build a kitchen that will last more than 30 years.

"The quality of hinges, drawer guides, etc. Are rarely as good as none KD cabinets."

IKEA uses Blum. Scherr's uses Blum. I think Conestoga uses Blum. Cheap Chinese cabinets use cheap Chinese components.

BTW: it's a myth that all Europeans take their kitchen cabinets when they move. It varies from country to country. In the UK, kitchen cabinets are considered a fixed part of a house, along with any built-in appliances.