wood

BTW...Bob if you catch this post I did order and did receive the PRI996 variety we discussed in the other thread. I think it's PRI996...maybe 998 or something like that.
Excited to give it a try on my all DR, seedling stock Frankentree.

Appleseed,

I used 1/10 bleach/water soln to rinse the scions and with this method I can keep my scions up to five months in the frige. I checked up on them every month or so and if I see any molds develope then I rinse them again with 1/10 bleach/water soln.

Tony

I do the same as Tony.

Also I have heard it is better to harvest wood now as it will be more dormant and less likely to bud in the fridge. I usually collect wood in early March but am going to do it in a few weeks for this coming year.

Scott

yeah...I've read about using the dilute chlorine solution. That will kill spores for sure, but wouldn't really prevent future mold growth, would it? Would a dilute sulfur/copper solution would prevent mold?
Better yet probably a sulfur/Captan solution?

This post was edited by Appleseed70 on Fri, Jan 9, 15 at 19:46

PRI 996 was one of 10 I requested as well. What other interesting varieties did you get?

Appleseed, I check on them periodically. If mold is growing I soap scrub it off. I use dish soap and a gentle scrub brush and work a scion at a time. Scrub only with the grain of the buds to not pop any off (no problem for apples but you need to be careful on some peaches etc). I generally don't get mold after one scrubbing, even on sticks I never treated in chlorine (I don't always treat).

Scott

You can hold those scions easily for 4-6 months. Keep them cold, as close to 32 degrees as possible. I am personally convinced that some light freezing will not harm the scions either at least that has been my experience. I have a fridge dedicated to my grafting so I can control the temp colder than most people would have for home use. Store in Ziplock bags with damp paper towels.

Scott,

Have you try 1/2 vinegar and 1/2 water to rinse the scions and moist the paper towels in the ziplock? It works real well to prevent mold also.

Tony

No I didn't try that. It sounds easier than the bleach method, which I usually don't do because it takes time. Bleach I mainly do for cuttings I am rooting (figs/grapes), they are in warm conditions when rooting and are more prone to molding.

Scott

Bob, I asked for and received:

Black Oxford

Winter Banana (I want to try the pear on apple interstem)

Pink Pearl

PRI996

Frostbite

If I had more stock to graft to I would have requested more. I wanted to only request what I'll use. I'll get some rootstock in the ground (maybe all seedling) this year.
I think this is a fabulous program and hope that our combined interests in it and use of it will help perpetuate it and receive funding.
So far, it's one of the very few government programs that actually makes sense to me.

I've got a Black Oxford graft (from Maple Valley) which looks like it will fruit this year. I'm also adding a Frostbite tree from Cummins, as I thought it was protected (there is a royalty listed on the site). It turns out that it is due to a nursery agreement and that it isn't technically patented.

I haven't added Pink Pearl, as from what I read, it is scab-susceptible. But, it will probably taste better than the red-fleshed Roberts Crab I requested.

A few seedlings will give you a ton of grafting sites in a few years. My biggest franken-apple is on a near seedling rootstock (Ranetka) and I've fit 20+ varieties on it (including Black Oxford).

I haven't tried any pear-apple grafting, but it sounds like a fun project. Though practically speaking, it is probably easier to graft onto quince or OHxF 87 rootstock and grow pears that way.

I haven't tried any pear-apple grafting, but it sounds like a fun project. Though practically speaking, it is probably easier to graft onto quince or OHxF 87 rootstock and grow pears that way.

Easier?....sure, but who wants easy? lol
Besides...if you do that you'll just have a pear tree...but a tree with different colored apples and pears...now that's pretty cool...right?

If you really want a cool tree, you could combine the suggestions. Take a quince tree, then a few feet up graft a compatible pear (and off that make sure to get some red and asian pears). Then, on top of that, Winter Banana. Then, on top of that, a bunch of different colored apples. A "pomme salad" tree...

Folks, I have been using Copper (kocide) on my scion wood for years and it does a great job on keeping the mold down, where bleach did not. I dip them in 1 tsp kocide in 1/2 gal water, Likely far more than is needed, shake them off and wrap in dampened newspaper. I use many plastic grocery bags to prevent temperature swings when the frig is opened, sort of like preventing freezer burn.

Eric

I agree with Scott that scions cut in January or deep in dormant period store better than later. Spring comes at different times in different places. I sometimes have aronia that is leafing out in February. Quince is early too. March is a heavy grafting month here. I know in Eastern Canada and Minnesota it's quite late, but it would be too late for us in milder climates.
John S
PDX OR

plumhill...have you noticed any detriment to successful grafts as a result of the copper?

Sounds like a great idea...thanks.

The "pomme salad" tree...yeah...I like it.