There is no difference between a bush vs. tree Ficus lyrata, it's just a matter of pruning. If you want a standard-like tree, you would have to separate your twin. I would not do this at this time of year. Wait until Spring. Just take a sharp knife and cut through the root ball and plant them up separately.

Thank you so much! I figured it was just all in the pruning, but I wanted to make sure. :)

Do you have any tips on how to prune it to start branching, and what time of year to do so? Do I need to remove any lower leaves to make it look more like a trunk or will they fall off eventually on their own?

I just wanted to add, after looking at my own specimen, I see that either it consists of several separate trees or it is multiple-trunked. Regardless, they are so closely planted that I would not consider chopping through the root ball. If I really wanted a standard I would just keep the dominant trunk and prune off the other trunk(s) without mercy. The remaining dominant trunk can then have its lowest branches pruned when necessary so growth will be encouraged from the top.

Could I just prune both stems to encourage branching and create a multi-stemmed tree like this bonsai: http://realbonsaitrees.com/bonsai-store/media/catalog/product/cache/4/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/t/r/triple-christmas-palm-tree-veitchia-merrillii-20-02-b-realpalmtrees.com.jpg

Another question about my fiddleleaf: How do I know when to water it? :) Do I let it dry out between waterings?

Yes, let it dry out moderately. Most ficus seem to enjoy occasional droughty conditions. (Creeping fig is notable exception, they hate drying out at all.) I put Ficus trees out in the growing season, and if you do likewise, dramatically increase watering due to sun and heat.

It's likely your plant is a single cutting, and the "trunks" are just secondary branches growing from the main branch stem. Making it into a standard would require removing all but the branch/stem/leader you choose. There is no rush. You can do that a year or 2 or 3 or 5 from now. In the meanwhile, the 'extra' branches are just fattening/ strengthening your trunk.

I suggest you focus your efforts on learning what your tree prefers in the way of cultural care, and eliminating the conditions it doesn't like. The things that will most benefit your plant are getting it into a soil you don't have to fight for the plant's vitality, and giving it the light/temps it likes.

The link below goes into some considerable detail about tending Ficus in pots.

Al

Here is a link that might be useful: Click me to learn more about growing your plant in a container.

Hello Al!

I was so hoping you'd reply to me, it seems you're quite the ficus expert!! :) Thanks so much for the tips! I'll check out your link.

I have my fiddleleaf right next to an eastern window that gets direct morning sun and remains pretty bright in general until sunset, should that be enough light? Unfortunately I have no southern facing windows, only east and west.

When my little ficus is finally ready to be pruned/shaped into a tree/standard, do I go about removing bottom leaves or does the plant do that on its own?

Thanks soo much!

Grace

Plants retain lower leaves longer when light levels are high, nutritional conditions are in the adequate to luxury range (not sure why, but 'luxury' is a horticultural term used to describe high but not problematically high nutrition levels), and the plant is getting neither too much nor too little water. Those are the primary causes of leaf shedding.

There isn't as much difference between east and west windows as most growers think. In fact, if you research building a greenhouse, you'll find it's more important to make sure it has direct exposure to the first light of day than the last light of day. Early exposure to light gets photosynthesis under way earlier in the day, so the plant actually makes less food but for a longer duration; whereas plants with a west only exposure might not start photosynthesizing until some time after plants growing with east exposures.

Ideally, you would be able to move your plant outdoors when nights are reliably above 55*, and site it where it gets early and late sun, and dappled or open shade during the hottest part of the day.

Sometimes the plant loses leaves on it's own and sometimes it pushes branches from buds in leaf axils (the crotch where leaves attach to branches) or just above old leaf bundle scars (scars left from where leaves were formerly attached). Removing those leaves now, especially under low light conditions, will probably produce a weak trunk that can't support the top mass of foliage and branches, so don't rush to remove anything until you're confident in your ability to maintain the plant in good vitality.

Thanks for the kind words ..... and Happy New Year.

Al

Hello Al!

Hope you had a happy New Year, and thanks for all the help! For now I'm just letting my little fiddleleaf grow next to my window, it seems happy. :) I figure once I've gotten to know the plant and it seems thriving and grown more I'll figure out about shaping and pruning, like you said.

I still have it in the nursery pot I purchased it in. Should I leave it in the nursery pot for now, pot up or repot? I have larger nursery pots I could move it up to. I've never "repotted" something as per your definition, just always potted up so I'm admittedly intimidated!

Thanks so much!

Grace

I'd leave it for now and repot or pot up in the summer. It won't be putting on a ton of growth for a couple of months anyway, so you won't lose much growth potential. The main upside is, NOT repotting now means less worry about the soil staying soggy for too long. Roots will colonize the extra soil slowly, which means the soil mass will remain wet much longer - better to avoid that situation in the winter.

Al

Thanks so much Al!! :) You've been such a help!

Grace