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renais1

Bonus time!

11 years ago

There is a very substantial bonus associated with composting and treating an organic waste stream properly. I have composted in the greenhouse for the last 11 years, and have always appreciated what I thought were the benefits of the operation. For me, the primary benefits were three: waste stream reduction, thermal mass for climate control, and carbon dioxide generation for enhanced growth. The greenhouse is fairly heavily instrumented and automated, so I have lots of data to look at, but it was not until recently that I decided to measure two interesting variables: the amount of CO2 generated by my compost, and the reduction in dry mass due to the composting process. I compost in both large beds (5'-6' wide, 16-40' long, 2'tall), and in rubbermaid tubs of about 27 gallon capacity. Most of the compost has worms introduced to enhance the process. The resulting worm compost is a useful part of my potting soil mix, or a good top dressing for plants. I find that I need about 28 pounds of fresh composting materials per 100 sq.ft of the greenhouse to maintain a daytime atmosphere of the greenhouse at 600-900ppm CO2, about 2-3x atmospheric levels. I have plenty of carbon rich sources to compost, but do not often have suitable N sources. This summer I tried using horse manure, a N source I can tap for many tons if I wanted. Much to my chagrin I introduced stable flies to the greenhouse. I am still in the last phases of getting rid of these little devils. Stable flies are not attracted to standard fly traps; they are blood feeders, requiring a couple bits of blood to reproduce. They are the notorious ankle biters: they disturb horses and cattle so much by their biting that the animals will lose weight. They disturbed me so much that I needed to wear long pants and shirts for months in the greenhouse to avoid their bites. I never use pesticides in the greenhouse, so I've had to eliminate the flies by removing all the composting material that could harbor their larvae. I think I am almost done. The moral of the story for me is that this is one place where I will use a synthetic fertilizer instead of an organic. I'll probably go back to using urea, a common choice for some commercial worm farmers to fatten the worms and enhance the worm feed stock. I made a semi-careful attempt to determine the reduction in dry mass associated with composting. I believe that in my rubbermaid containers with worms I experience about a 27% reduction in dry mass over a period of about 35 days. The rotting is not done at that point, and if I wait another couple months the mass has reduced quite a bit more, but I don't have numbers. It is only in the first month or so that the compost produces lots of CO2, so I try to keep new containers starting regularly. I assume that most of the dry mass loss is CO2 generation from the C in the raw materials. There may be some N loss as well, but I do not believe it is significant. I hope this is helpful to others who may have wondered about efficacy of greenhouse composting. By the way, my numbers are reasonably consistent with the results of one of the seminal studies in this area: J. Plant Nutr. Soil Sci. 2009, 172, 418�424 Carbon dioxide enrichment by composting in greenhouses and its effect on vegetable production Chongwei Jin, Shaoting Du, Yue Wang, Jason Condon, Xianyong Lin, and Yongsong Zhang if you want more info.
Renais

Comments (2)

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Have you tried beneficial nematodes? Seems like a greenhouse would be a perfect place to use them.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Biological pest control

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Naturewest: I did try a watered in nematode application, and have fly predators around which help. I would use another application of beneficial nematodes if I had a problem that they could solve; the flies may have been impacted by the nematodes, but there was not a big effect. I think I probably have a very substantial population of nematodes naturally present in my media because of all the organics I use already. The stable flies were particularly challenging because I had used other manures (llama, alpaca and cow) and never had a problem. Horse manure is just such a good breeding ground for them! I am now reluctant to use more manure in the greenhouse composting because I don't want to continue this vexing problem. I do practice integrated pest management with a vengeance. 11 years or so ago I made one introduction of predators for common pests I saw in the greenhouse; many other beneficial insects have come in on their own. I plant things just to feed the beneficials, and keep they in place; I have trap crops to maintain a healthy ecological balance. I have never sprayed a pesticide in the greenhouse, and do not intend to ever do so. Anyone can come in and eat right off the plants with the assurance that there is nothing dangerous to deal with. Children really enjoy this experience, especially when they taste what really fresh, ripe produce is like. Brushing off dust, or rinsing dirt off a root is all that is required of my produce. Folks dealing with cancer appreciate the pure quality of the food as well. I have few regular pests in the greenhouse. About once a year in the spring I get a huge bloom of aphids, especially on the roses. The roses will be covered for about a week, and then I'll see the resident aphid predators start getting the upper hand. I'll lose a few rose blossoms to aphids, but don't need to worry about what chemicals are on my flowers. My only real challenges in the greenhouse with pests are pillbugs and slugs. Since I have so much compost inside, and I use so much in my plantings, I have some good sized populations of both these critters. There are usually some yeast and water traps out for the slugs. The pillbugs are an interesting issue. I have observed that they do indeed attack some of my seedlings, contrary to what some folks say about them only following on to other damage. Diatomaceous earth may help some, but it is not as effective as I would like. Since I don't want a chemical solution, I sometimes have to plant more seedlings than I would otherwise to make up for the damage. Peppers, squash and certain ornamentals are worst hit by the pillbugs.

    This post was edited by Renais1 on Wed, Dec 31, 14 at 7:12