Well there were 2 different fs80 models, one was Japanese made from the late 70s through the 80s, the other model a decade or 2 later... Which one do you have, and why do you think the seal is the culprit?

i have the one from the late 70's - points and all. It happened to me before with a echo srm2301 and i confirmed it - oil behind the flywheel or behind the ignition points.

I tried a pic but couldn't catch anything to pull the seal out.

So again, any other ideas\trick? or take the whole motor apart?

Did you pressure test your seal? My attachment is regulated to low pressure testing the split caseâÂÂs oil tank gasket seal on 70s-80s Poulan S25 Pros. One leaked in the one yr warranty and was replaced. Afterwards, I torqued case bolts to minimize, cleaned/scuffed and added silicon (to small marked areas, positioned or drained bar oil) vs replacing gaskets and it's worked.

I can visualize a pressure test showing your seal is leaking if needed. You might have a TX Oil Well At The Seal As Proof. LOL! If that is the case, is the seal too thin to run two drywall Etc screws into the punched small holes and adapt a plate on shaft or puller to pull out w/o any possible damage to the case. Enough holes or chiseled should weaken the seal. Please post a close clear Pic of the seal. I know the Pain of splitting a case on a 40 yr old saw. If you ck the rod to crank play you might retire it as a part saw (as I did) vs throwing a rod after 20yrs (adding a piston/ring/kit once).

If all is âÂÂGOODâ and you have the time, Have Fun!

Seal pullers will possibly be the safest, fastest w/o any damages (after searching and seeing you will probably have very little metal lip to work with. A small engine shop might pull the seal at a reasonable cost. With the saw disassembled and your reassembling. See the seal puller in the link below.

Some puller might be reasonable to purchase or rent that I saw at the 2nd address below.

My searchers were:
1. how to replace stihl fs80 chainsaw crankshaft oil seal
2. how to build a stihl crankshaft seal pullers

Good luck!
http://video.search.yahoo.com/video/play;_ylt=A2KIo9ciVKBU9BsAG7v7w8QF;_ylu=X3oDMTBzZWQ1aGR0BHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDdmlkBHZ0aWQDBGdwb3MDMTI-?p=how+to+replace+stihl+fs80+chainsaw+crankshaft+oil+seal&vid=aad5a60093a23e3f9b5d1e8c76673cbc&l=2%3A20&turl=http%3A%2F%2Fts3.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DVN.608040839788301030%26pid%3D15.1&rurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DVNq07CcWPjs&tit=Chainsaw+Seal+Replacment+%26+Vacuum+Testing&c=11&sigr=11brnalup&sigt=119kfa4fj&age=0amp;fr2=p%3As%2Cv%3Av%2Cm%3Asa&&tt=b

http://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video;_ylt=A0LEVzOwWKBU.2YAcDNXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTBsa3ZzMnBvBHNlYwNzYwRjb2xvA2JmMQR2dGlkAw--?p=how+to+build+a+stihl+crankshaft+seal+pullers

Wow, that's a fancy puller. If it gets in behind the lip, I bet it works smooth. If I can't hook them out, I use the screw and yank or the screw and push out method. I feel so low class....

There are some less expensive pullers that looked as if they would work as well. The Old School Method is what I had in mind until I saw the video and possible space/metal you could have to work with. A puller that would get past the metal, apply outward force and thread up might save you some damage. IâÂÂm use to flipping or walking most but I doubt I have flipped or walked one that tight looking.

That small I can not see what splitting the case would help toward driving it out.

my problem with the drill approach is that there is a ball bearing right behind the seal on both ends. I dont want to take the chance.
I didnt pay attention last time when i had to do this with my fs65 but i noticed this time there is a lip between the seal and the bearing so there is no space to slip in the puller.
I went and did it the old way today and I am just waiting for the new seal to press in when it arrives.
I should feel lucky- i only had to drill out 1 screw head on the engine block!

Outsider,

A GM Turbohydro 350 transmission shift shaft has a similarly inaccessible seal. There is an inexpensive taper-threaded tool that slips over the shift shaft, threads into the seal ID and screws the seal out. That tool may exist in other sizes also and, if so, would pop that seal right out.

That tool would be slick. When I puncture a seal, I use my sharp awl at first which is typically successful - and a drill as a last resort. I agree that filings and bearings are a bad mix!

0utsider,

Please share a pic of your case opening and old seal next to it (or a link that will show them). IâÂÂm trying to visualize the long way you mentioned. Was that splitting the case to get the seal away from the shaft, then driving or flipping the seal out?

Here is a link to the pics i took while i was working on it. Let me know if u had a particular pic in mind.

Sorry i forgot the seal but FYI, these old models were made by Kyoritz (makers of echo) in Japan and it takes the same seal as the echo SRM210, SRM2401 etc.

take 2,
http://s127.photobucket.com/user/the_0utsider1/library/

Here is a link that might be useful: FS65 pics

Thanks for the Pics. Now I see your challenge! Including photobucket that I like also.