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treehugger54

Need help choosing dwarf fruit trees.

11 years ago

These trees will be planted at my own Indianapolis Indiana home. I have a good 80ft stretch with which to use. I'd like to use a portion of that to plant a Chestnut tree however. The Dunstan Chestnut will be planted at the southwestern portion away from the house. The fruit trees will then run east towards the home along the south side of the back lawn. I'd say that leaves me a good 40-50ft for the dwarf fruit trees. Likely 40ft. due to the shade the Dunstan will one day produce. I will be removing three large silver maples which are breaking apart and adding a second Dunstan straight across from the other at the back of the yard. That leaves another 40-50ft stretch for fruit trees along the north side of the lawn. I could add 3 trees to each side or 5 down one side or the other. Maybe 3 on one side and 2 on the other as I want to begin growing a vegetable garden as well. Maybe I should plant the fruit trees across the rear of the yard and the Dunstans in front of them? I fear that will provide too much afternoon shade however with more silver maples beyond where I'm planting... Maybe not a clear set-up, but I've tried to provide some idea of what you may need to know.

I enjoy all kinds of fruits, so I'm open to all suggestions of types and varieties. I'm a single male, but want enough fruit to feed me all season. I know some trees fruit at different times so having a fresh supply at different points of the season would be ideal. I prefer trees that will flower nicely, but overly abundant flowering or scent aren't a must. I'd prefer trees of like size for the visual appeal and they must be dwarf trees as I don't want to constantly be trimming. I know some of you will have this down to a science through knowledge and experience so that's why I'm asking for your assistance in streamlining the choices. I appreciate the advice very much.

Comments (7)

  • 11 years ago

    For now no dwarfing rootstocks for peach and plum, pruning is the only way to keep small. Semi-dwarfing rootstock keeps them to about 15 feet. I prefer to prune them. It's not a lot of work, as if you grow fruit trees, you will need to put all kinds of time in anyway. You have to prune to shape the tree, poor structure will result in poor results. Spraying is a must too.

    You can buy genetic dwarf peaches, that is an option. The best ones seem to be developed by Zaiger. Some are ornamental only.

    Cherries ripen early so you can't really spread harvest much, peaches and plums you can. Apples too. My best advice is to look though the threads here and they contain a wealth of information.

  • 11 years ago

    I am not sure zaiger dwarf peach/nectarine would be suitable in that environment thinking them likely to break dormancy too soon.

    Pick an apple dwarfing rootstock suitable for your area (?) would be my advice. Try to spread the fruiting season out with successful apple cultivars to the area (County Master Gardener/Coop Exchange).

    There are a few natural dwarf cherries too. Otherwise, not a whole lot to meet your limiting stated desires.

    http://www.starkbros.com/tags/dwarf-fruit-trees

    .

  • 11 years ago

    I like my 2 apple trees on Bud 9 rootstock, wish all of the rest were. Spraying and pruning are not a big deal due to their dwarf stature. Being dwarfs, they must be staked/anchored and in my arid region irrigated a couple of times during Summer. These trees being dwarfs took only 2 years to come into near full production.

  • 11 years ago

    I myself don't worry about the trees breaking dormancy as once it is warm enough around here for them to break, the frosts are gone. Once a decade we get hit with a late frost, but that's it. Even trees with 900 hours chill are met by January here, according to MSU. So I doubt it matters here, but all gardening is local. I'm experimenting with low chill blueberries here. With blueberries they will not break dormancy if under 45F, and again once we reach 45F it's safe to start growing. Some places like Kansas get warm spells in the winter, so it would be a problem. We never get warm spells in the winter. Right now it is 11F going down to -6F tonight.

  • PRO
    11 years ago

    I plan on planting several blueberry bushes as well. I'd like to start a grape vine too. In an uncertain world, I think now is more important than ever to have some independence. Not to mention avoiding the gmo poison as much as possible.

  • 11 years ago

    URES,

    Not sure how experienced you are in growing fruit trees. In most places including Indiana, fruit trees will require spraying. Different fruit trees have different issues and may need different treatments. You may want to learn about diseases and insects that could damage your fruit trees of your choice before planting them.

    It's always good to choose disease resistant varieties if you do not want to spray a lot. However, disease resistant does not always equal taste.

    Also, if you want to grow organically, it can be done but often requires more work and less effectiveness.

    You are also right about a sunny area. Almost all fruit trees require full sun. It helps reduce fungal disease, ripening and quality of fruit. Lot of fruit trees do not produce well in partial shade.

  • PRO
    11 years ago

    My experience is limited to one apple tree. That's why I appreciate the knowledge. It was always being chewed up unless sprayed. I was hoping a dormant oil would do the trick, but if not, whatever is needed.