Def. uncover & get it in some sun, then keep an eye on it. I usually wait until roots start poking out the bottom holes to transfer seedlings. That way the root ball should stay together instead of crumbling apart.

I'll uncover them in the morning.

What I did with mine was wait for the first set of true leaves, then I lifted them out with a chopstick and put them in 4" pots. They road out the winter in those pots and put on some growth. Once I put them in ground after that last frost, they started putting on growth like crazy. One is even flowering already at about 12" tall.

Provide light! Not at all suggesting you don't know this, but I am constantly amazed at the numbers of folks who seem not fully aware that plants run on light!

All plant starts benefit by very careful attention to water. They need it, of course, but it's very easy to provide too much. So pay careful attention to that second-most critical aspect. And along the same lines, resist the urge later on to pot up several pot sizes at a time, that being another way to drown the plant. All the medium in a pot can be considered a reservoir for water. So, tiny plant in large pot oftentimes =overwatering. Beyond that, I have no knowledge about this particular species, and will defer to my Florida friends for that.

+oM

The water part is what always gets me. Some seedlings seem to drink fast, others not so much. And when in starting cells it is too easy to go from well-watered to dry, which is why I try to transplant as soon as I see the true leaves. It's easier to manage water in even a 4" pot than it is in the flats. I even tried the newer wicking mat-equipped seed starting kits from Jiffy and NK, but I found the wicking mats just made the water evaporate quicker more than keeping the plants adequately watered.

Some seedlings though, don't like being disturbed even once they get their first true leaves. Milkweed is notorious for dying on me if I try to plant to soon or too late. It's a guessing game on when the roots are enough to hold the media but not so long that I damage them when extracting them from the cells. I mentioned before, but I think I am going to start going overkill on Milkweed and just start them in 4 or 6" pots. I have tried direct sowing the the garden, but that rarely works. I had no issues what-so-ever with transplanting my Brugs though.

I try to keep my seedlings in a non-draining tray of some sort - anything that's shallow & holds water. That way, the tray traps some water for the heavy drinkers. I have a couple of cell paks in an old pie pan right now. 1 is squash, which gets big & thirsty very quickly.

Whatever works for your individual situation. For example, non-draining trays or pots of any kind are simply not a part of professional plant propagation. Yet Carol has a way to make that work. Part science for sure, but also part art, the nuances of any given system. Then too, we use mist and'or humidity traps to get cuttings to root and/or seeds to germinate, but those items are very quickly not needed and usually not helpful once either of those two things has happened. So timing enters the picture as well. And all is ruled by how much energy, in the form of light but also heat, is entering the plant's environment. A group of seedlings directly under an HPS light is going to dry much faster than the same plants on a windowsill somewhere-usually. All kinds off variables, but there's way to make it work.

+oM