A 1-3/8 standard thickness interior door will fit in a standard thickness interior wall which corresponds to 2x4 construction. If you go much bigger with the door you will want solid core I think and might want to consider a 1-3/4 door in 2x6 construction

Thanks pal! Have you heard of a 6 ft. wide pocket door? (For the guest bedroom area)

I don't think the size will be a problem, you just need the proper hardware, and a door that won't warp.

Hi How about 2 Three foot opposing doors?

Woodbutcher

hi rockybird the only 6-0 door I have heard of is considered a barn door mounted on the outside of the opening. but a 5-0 pocket door is common,

Thanks everyone! The architect drew in a barn door for the guest room, but it will take up wall space in the dining room/living room area side when open. I wont be able to place a credenza or artwork.

I dont know how to get this to work. I want to open a "guest room" to the dining room/kitchen area as a office/den. One wall is a red rock wall installed in the 50's and I want to expose the wall. There is a bathroom against the wall now, and if I move the bath, I am guessing there will be damage to the rock from the plumbing. To hide this, I thought putting a bar in would be neat. But the arch. drew the bar in between two walls. I wanted a floating bar against the red rock wall.

I guess if a 5 ft. door is all that is available than I wont be able to float the wall or bar like I want, and will have to install two 2-ft. wide walls on each side of it. I did find an example of a 5 ft. wide door on houzz.

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Wall I want to expose (take out bathroom, install bar to cover plumbing damage, install 4-6 foot door).

Other side of wall:

If you are using slab doors all you have to do is splice two together, especially if you are painting. If they can make a barn door that big, they can make a pocket door that big.

I have had problems with solid core doors warping, may have been the manufacturer but I wouldn't recommend solid core for pocket doors. I returned one of my solid cores that was unacceptably warped and ordered a new one. The new one was warped also so I didn't take it home and instead got a hollow core and the hollow core is straight as an arrow. Also, the hollow core is not as heavy to slide open and close.

If you do get a solid door, ensure it is not warped before you buy it or take it home.

morning rockybird, if you want to purchase a door whether hollow or solid core, stay away from the stores that have there stock standing up. theres no guarantee, but better if the door slabs are laying flat. if you hire a gc or do it yourself make sure you seal the door on all six sides as soon as you can.

there are a few good supply houses that stock frame kits and hardware for pocket doors.

why do you think there would be damage to the walls if you remove the bathroom. am I missing something or missed something in your post.

Thank you all for the advice. I will try to get them from a reputable lumber yard and then. I will also make sure they are laying flat.

So, there's a chance I could do a 6 ft. pocket door? I will be using a gc for the work. I know a couple of really good ones who do mcm/contemporary type work. I want to get the design completely finished and get my thoughts together of what I want before I ask for estimates.

It looks like there is mortar or concrete between the bath drywall and the redrock. And there is plumbing also. The rocks in the wall are from the 1950's and the architect doesnt think we can replace any if there is damage to the wall when we remove the drywall, concrete and plumbing. This s when we thought of the bar idea, to hide the damage. Does that make sense?

hi rockybird, I looked at the layout a little closer and yes that makes sense.

Pal - that is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you! I'm thinking they could build this into a pocket door?

Yes, I would think so.

That is a crazy expensive pocket door. If it is what you want then great but it is $981 for just the hardware without the low profile wedge which adds another $157. Add installation and the actual door to that and wow...I think I would just hang my artwork on my barn door. You can probably find cheaper options out there.

There's very little in between pricewise. Johnson hardware for pocket doors is very good and sturdy but doesn't give a very finished profile, or a least it's hard to trim out, especially if you want a flush look to the ceiling look. Also this is going to be a very heavy, long door. Johnson is heavy enough but "finishing" the track would be hard.

I know a couple people who have pocket doors that are useless because they used cheap hardware and you can either get the door open and closed with a lot of binding and screeching, or they are stuck in the pockets. And you have to demo the wall and start over to fix it. So most people don't fix it. I don't think Rocky's guests would get a charge out of trying to get dressed with the door open.

I've found the same thing with the latches and locks. There are literally no choices between $12 and about $400.

So yes it's an expensive door, but this is not something that can be worked on or upgraded like a swinging door, You either do it correctly at the beginning, or redo it later.

Modernist barn door hardware will be this expensive, too.

hi rockybird you can also try pocketdoorproducts.com. and Hartford building products.com those are the only two I would suggest its options. those are the only two I have in my favorites kist

Thanks guys! I have to agree with Pal - I think it is best to make the investment in the hardware so that the door moves fluidly. I would rather spend the extra money, especially for such a large door.

Thanks gene calabrese! I will definitely look at those sources.

The largest single pocket door I've used was 42" wide. The largest single pocket door I've seen is 72" wide. I have two of them in my house built in 1891; the hardware consists of large cast wheels on a hidden track and the wall is double studded. Johnson makes a 1500 commercial grade pocket door frame for 2x4 stud walls for a door up to 5 ft wide and 200 lbs. It can be adapted for a single panel or 2 converging panels.

Pocket Door Products makes one for a 5 ft x 9 ft door panel.

Pocket doors are a nuisance to operate so unless they must be closed they will say open.

Thanks renovator8. Yikes, that does sound like a serious door. It would rarely ever be closed. The only other thing to consider is two three foot panels but they would have to roll in the same direction and kind of "stack" up behind the wall.

Do pocket doors have to be slab doors or can they be paneled?