We had a wall of wood panelling in our living room which we painted 13 years ago and it still looks great. first we primed it with a product called BIN, and then filled the cracks with drywall plaster. No one knows it is panelling because it is now completely smooth under the paint.

I would add more lighting, ie..track lighing or small can lights.

Use wider base trim.

Change pictures frames that match (or paint).

Remove carpet but use a nice dark color rug runner

Most importantly, I would place a large mirror at the end of the hall, so it doesn't feel so closed in.

Or go crazy and paint each divided panel a different color, depending on your color personality. I would use neutral colors like beige, cream, taupe, coffee, slate. I wish I had a pic to show you but it's stuck in my brain. Or maybe I saw it somewhere. I wil post it if I find one.

Wish you the best.

Thats so cute. I think that aamosburg should sell his paneling to people ( garage sale or craigslist) and show them how they can make this tree for a low cost. Than you can buy what you want with the money.

Lollipopluv,

It is not solid wood. Wood does not come in 4 x 8 sheets with grooves in it. Solid wood paneling would be made of tongue and groove pine or fir or some such wood that is 1 x 4 or 1 x 5 with grooves and installed piece by piece.. Sheet goods such as wood paneling which the poster has stated this is in fact 1/4 inch sheets, are made of wood veneers laminated onto wood pulp. Legally they are allowed to say something is solid wood if if is wood fiber and veneers.

Most of us think "solid wood" are individual planks of wood. That is not the case here. Often the solid wood paneling was knotty pine and you can tell by the regularity of the pieces and the depth of the grooves.

Fake wood paneling would be a photo printed onto plastic and that would be laminated onto wood pulp.

I paneled my family room over sheet rock walls many years ago. Although it stood up very well, it was very outdated, so I removed the paneling and refinished the walls. A little labor intensive, but well worth the final result.

I had/have this issue with my current home. For cost reasons I was unable to replace it all but!, I did a grass cloth wallpaper over some of it, no real prep except a drywall primer paint. It has been almost two years and it still looks great. I chose a heavy paper, no grooves show through. I tore some paneling out and dry walled, very easy, save the trim. As was mentioned, this was a good way to check insulation on exterior walls, I was able to upgrade that. On some walls I just painted. Yes, it looks like painted paneling but it REALLY isn't that bad. Eventualy I will tear it out but in the mean time it has a lighter and fresher look. I did texture w/ drywall mud directly over the paneling in one room and it has held up surprizingly well. The corner has cracked a little but that is after almost 2 years. I just repainted and you don't even notice it. I did nothing to prep the walls for this, just started rolling it on. Labor intensive, several coats of mud, but it looks great and it has not chipped off or cracked anywhere except the corner, and a fraction of the cost of all drywall. Good Luck.

I have done the "fill-in-the-grooves-with-joint-compound" suggestion in a small 10x10 room in a former home and I would never do it again! It was tedious and very messy. We did end up wallpapering over it, but living in Maine, the house was subject to extremes in temperature and humidity and the wallpaper alternately buckled and stretched at the joints. Previous suggestions to use the thinnest sheetrock and cover it up area by area as you can afford it is the way that I would go if I had to do it again. In the meantime, just paint it (after a light sanding to give the paneling some "tooth"). The change in color alone would perk everything ...and you..up!

I would never fill in the grooves, I think you would really have the issue of chipping out and shrinkage.

Can this effect [pickling or whitewashing - see attached photo ] be achieved on this type of paneling and if so, how?

The method that I suggested earlier in the thread of replies creates the look in the photo that is whitewashed. You control the finished look by how you color the glazing compound as well as how much of the paint you brush on and brush off as you go. Glazing works well on wood that hasn't been stripped and will even adhere to some prefinished cabinet doors. However, it's important to clean the surface extremely well with 100-ought steel wool and alcohol to remove the years of dirt and oily residue before beginning. On a personal note, I am disappointed to see so many designers that do not recognize the value of the solid wood paneling from yesteryear. It's a superior material by far to sheetrock, and inevitably will be as sought after as antique hardwood floors are now. I don't like how dark it makes a room and would also want to lighten it up through the ghosting technique or painting, but I would never remove it. It's like throwing out your sterling silver to make room for your stainless cutlery. Just saying...

Agnes Willcox, ASID,

Thank you.

I had already saved your comment on glaze.
[I don't know what glaze is, but I will google]

Can it be achieved with latex paint mixed with water?

You see, I thought pickling referred to white washing or lime washing , applying a paint alternative made from lime powder or putty, milk powder or diluted white paint.

New to paints and finishes, I am only trying to understand.

Dear Agnes,
As a third generation home builder that grew up in a house built my my grandfather in the 1920s that was remuddled by my mother with sheet goods called solid wood paneling that was exactly like this stuff, I can tell you that it does not come in 4 x 8 sheets off the tree. .

What you are calling solid wood is simply a marketing ploy by GP Georgia Pacific and Louisiana Pacific who began an extensive marketing of both plywood and wood paneling in the 1950's. Prior to the 1950's ,homes were built with real solid lumber. All that changed after 1945. My family owned lumberyards and the big vendors brought out sheet material that were simply layers of wood ( plywood) or masonite or glued up sawdust with veneers on the surface. This product is a glued up sandwich with a tiny less than 1/16 of an inch of "real wood" on the surface.

I wish this were "real solid wood" but I can tell you by looking at it that it is not.

Lizabeth,

Exactly!

Most wood paneling is plywood with a thin veneer of wood

However, some very inexpensive wood paneling uses nothing more than a decal applied to the surface.

Yes I agree Aja,

There is worse stuff out there. Some of of the stuff is just a photo of wood glued to a backing. But is a misnomer to call this "real solid wood". Legally they are allowed to call it wood because it consists of layers of wood and/or sawdust and veneers.

Solid wood should be planks of nothing but wood, no glue, nothing else but wood as it came off the tree. That indeed should be saved and valued.. Solid wood paneling is generally at least 3/4 of inch thick it it was installed prior to 1945.

Hi Lizabeth,
I realize that the photos of aamosburg's walls suggest that the paneling is not solid wood tongue in groove pine boards, and is very likely the 4 x 8 sheets of plywood paneling. I was really responding more to the barrage of responses that immediately assumed the paneling was worthless when it may be the "real thing". Most of the homes in my area have the actual solid wood paneling from the 1940's through the 1960's. But, the ghosting/painting technique will also work on the "cheap" stuff which can still give a great look and provides a wall covering that easily holds nails to hang accessories, avoids the additional cost of tearing our and installing dry wall, and keeps you from losing the trim reveals if you install the plywood over the paneling.

Amen. No matter what your budget is this stuff is just not worth saving in any form. I feel like the 60s and 70s when this "wood" product flourished was the design era from Hell. Nothing compares with a real piece of T&G solid 3/4 in wood. And I just cringe every time some "expert" on HGTV wants to paint it white to brighten it up....vintage, stained and varnished wood T&G should not be painted...that is just wrong....but this stuff....it is not wood, no solid anything. It just needs to go and I have never been a fan of dry wall either unless you do it right and make it look like real plaster. any effort made on trying to cover up this stuff is a waste of time and I don't think that is insulting to the homeowner - they did not install it...and they are smart enough to be looking for alternative. Just be clear - it is just not wood.

Lizabeth,

Yes!

My great grandparents built a large 2 story colonial style house in Florida in the late 1930's

It has red oak floors that are still beautiful today.

The siding is cypress and was painted white.

[it even has a real elevator]

It would cost a fortune to duplicate today.

Barby Bennett,

In today's economy, many people can not afford to remove "this stuff" and replace with plaster walls.

Creative painting techniques are a viable alternative.

Aja,

That house sounds wonderful. Is it still in your family? My family had a stunning English Tudor with diamond paned Leaded glass windows, qtr saw oak floors that they had to sell in the 1930's and the buyer insisted the Steinway D Grand had to stay in the house. Sheesh hard times.

Barby,

Yup the real T & G paneling should be stripped and saved. My granddad stripped all the dark molding in his home after he retired. Sanded everything and it was so much lighter and lovely.

Agnes,

The original poster mentioned that it was 1/4 inch and later said it is in sheets. But hey there has been a lot of comments. Lots of interesting views here.

Glazing compound comes in quart cans and is a thick glue-like substance that you mix with paint, either oil base or latex. Most faux finishers would recommend using oil base over the wood paneling and it is also easier to work with since it doesn't dry as quickly. The glazing compound is sold in all of your big box stores such as Lowes, Home Depot, etc. as well as paint stores. I think I usually have mixed it with oil based paint about 50/50, but it's been a good while since I did it myself so googling is a great idea!

Glazing compound comes in quart cans and is a thick glue-like substance that you mix with paint, either oil base or latex. Most faux finishers would recommend using oil base over the wood paneling and it is also easier to work with since it doesn't dry as quickly. The glazing compound is sold in all of your big box stores such as Lowes, Home Depot, etc. as well as paint stores. I think I usually have mixed it with oil based paint about 50/50, but it's been a good while since I did it myself so googling is a great idea!

Lizabeth,

Yes!
It is in Saint Petersburg and built on land that is 54' above sea level ~ a rarity in itself.

However , the orange grove was sold.
As the town became a city, developers were willing to pay top dollar for the land.

It sits on a double lot under a canopy provided by 5 oaks.
[oaks provide shade for english ivy and oak leaves make the perfect mulch for acid loving azaleas ]

The property is surrounded by a 12' ligustrum hedge.

It has a brick and glass solarium and a WOOD paneled library.

It must have been heartbreaking to sell the English Tudor home, but I have heard stories of life in the 1930's.

I think Florida fared better than the other states.

Agnes Willcox, ASID,

Thank you!

At the office we had some of this wood paneling. We filled the grooves, painted 2 coats of OIL BASED Kilz, then painted with a latex paint. It looks great.

I was horrified when professionals suggested that I paint my wood, rather than removing, because of the nail damage that had been done to the plaster walls underneath. No filling grooves, just painting! Guess what. I loved it and got compliments for years. Try painting a bit. You just might like it in some of the areas.

Agreed that painting techniques can be a very good option for people who do not plan to either rip out/or resurface the walls in some way. It is economic to paint it and achieve a great result. As I have mentioned before, some people have economic reasons for wanting to work with what they have! I have seen some wonderful results from painting surfaces!

Just paint it! I had the same problem in a house and I just painted it white, looked great!

White washed paneling! It looks great . I saw Feeny posted some pics the one with the sailboat is a dream! i love it. if you dont like it you can always go over it. its easy if your into this kind of thing!

Feeny ~ 32 likes for the white wash!

It must be a new record!!!!

I doubt that this shiny paneling will take a white wash.

houssaon,

Let's ask a landscape architect.

What???

If you love the sea and boating, why not bring your passion into your home with a nautical decor scheme? Here some product ideas.

That wood will be very difficult to remove and replace w/drywall.
We have a great nautical collection that will go well with the wood throughout the house;
http://www.bargainbacker.com/Nautical-Accents_c_2707.html

My contractor checked. The paneling in my house is nailed and glued, which he said was not unusual. He said it would be expensive and time consuming to remove and recommended painting. Haven't done it yet, but the photos above are charming, so I think I'll try it. The ceiling in my DR is also paneled. Should I paint the same color or a different color?

If you're going with the nautical theme, I would suggest adding a drop or two of blue pigment to tint a mix of glazing compound and white oil base paint. I have used this treatment on prefinished wood paneling and it works nicely. Don't forget to have lots of extra dry brushes to brush off the paint while it's still wet to get the desired effect - you don't want to do a large area at one time. Before starting, be sure to thoroughly clean the paneling of all residue - I use a wet 100-ought steel wool pad with a little alcohol and just keep rinsing it out with clean water and let it dry well. It will surprise you how much grime has collected on the surface over the years! As to the ceiling, you may want to wait before painting. Often, the warm wood paneling is a very nice touch for the ceiling. The wood will be a lot brighter after cleaning.

Just a thought to those that are considering the paneling and have good drywall underneath. Yes, you may discover that you have minimal damage to the drywall underneath and that you can tape, fill, and sand the drywall joints and holes and then paint. But here is something else to investigate before you get too carried away. Were your electical outlet boxes installed to be level with the panelling? In other words, when you get that 1/4" of paneling off, are the outlet boxes sticking out from the wall by a 1/4"? That may sound to some like a minor problem, but it is not if you are doing a quality job. If you don't reposition those boxes, your wall may look great, but your outlets will be sticking out from the wall by 1/4". To do it right, you will probably have to cut a small section out of the drywall, pry out the mounting nails that hold the box in, reattach the box so that it is even with the front of the wall, then repair the wall section. It is do-able, but more work that you first counted on. In this situation, it may be easier to install a second layer of drywall over the original layer. If you do that, you end up with outlet boxes that are are recessed into the wall a 1/4" more than what they should be. But that is a small problem, similar to what you encounter when you tile a wall behind a kitchen counter. You can shim out your outlet and use longer screws in your cover plate. Also investigate how your window and door trim is going to mate up if you remove or add thickness to the wall.
So, if you are a do it yourselfer, like many of us have to be...investigate before you get too carried away. And don't forget the previous dicussions about painting the paneling.

I have filled the grooves, and papered over my paneling with heavy embossed paper and it has been up for 16 years. Have repainted at least 3 times, without it coming off. No one has ever asked what is underneath, but they do like the colors I have used. The paper is not as important as the ending color. I believe they carry very plain versions of this paper, to look like linen, so it would work in a contemporary home.

As a contractor who has been through this (I have the exact same panels as you do), I agree with many of the comments above. This stuff is about $ 13.00 per 4x8 sheet, so don't worry about "ruining" any type of high-end finishes. Paint it first, and you'll be out a hundred bucks. If that doesn't suit your taste, remove it. It's 1/4" thick and typically installed with finish brads / nails - it will come down in a matter of minutes. Carefully remove trim which can be re-used with some minor cuts. Insulate if you don't have it, and go drywall. You can use 1/2" GWB if you like to save some money. If you have never done drywall, pay someone. You will thank me later for that :) - you should be able to get our for under $ 1.00 / SF for buying, hanging and filling the GWB. It's worth it. Think it through and move electrical items while the panels are down - they are just nailed to studs so it's easy if you have access (as jake said). Note - you CAN fill the grooves and paint. I do NOT recommend that. The "average eye" will likely never notice and it does look nice in photos, but the perfectionist will not likely be happy. If you don't know what I mean, look at the existing wood panels at the joints and you'll notice slight bows or gaps. You will likely end up skimming the entire walls with filler to even it all out. As wood is not made for this application, humidity variations may cause issues down the road. I'm about to renovate for a nursery at my home, and I'm struggling over the "what to do" myself .. more like "how far do I take this". Best of luck. Note - I am fairly happy with how raw wood panel turns out just painted. It's best to sand them some, but it's not necessary for flat paint. Eggshell/satin needs sanding just enough to help it adhere.

Very old dead thread but it is full of options for those stuck with paneling.

edit - just saw yours is glued. Painting it as is, or filling it then painting may be your best bet. With glue, your humidity issue may be minimized more.

I have a "fake" wood looking paneled home with these panels being 16" wide. They are everywhere! I liked a wood look to my home at first even though it was fake, but I finally had to admit to myself that it was old and outdated and cheesy looking. I am wondering if all these suggestions for camouflaging this paneling would also work on this fake cheesy looking stuff. I live in the mountains but a cottage style of home is what I have on the outside and am redoing my kitchen now in an antiquey, cottage style. I emphasize that the surface of these panels are not wood.

This was all a ton of help. Thank you everyone who had ideas I had not considered. I have three different paneling in my mother in-law's house, which we bought. The normal one shown here, and smooth sheet room, and lastly a 60s addition with plastic, bumpy, vein-y, textured style--guess it is trying to look like real bark? For the smooth paneling, it that a good candidate for the thin layer of not-wallpaper? Then you paint over that?

What did you end up doing...one room at a time in hope!

My husband and I removed a wood paneling that was half way up the wall. It took some sanding and mudding, then primer and paint, but I am more than happy with the result. The hardest part was getting the glue off the wall. We also just painted an accent wall with paneling but I know feel like you can see the four feet wide sheets. We might be just getting rid of that paneling too

We used paneling in the early 80's it was cheap and fast. A few years ago I primed, mudded the lines and then I mudded the paneling with joint compound and then primed and painted. You can not tell there is paneling under the mud.

Update? What did you decide to do?

Real wood quarter inch paneling is high quality building material. Top of the line wood very hard to find today, maybe impossible to find. Drywall or sheetrock is the cheap junk. Just find a way to live with the real wood by using wall hangings, drapes, etc., the possibilities are endless. Once you tear that vintage wood paneling out, it is gone forever. Cheap sheetrock shows scratches, dents, stains, water damage and mold. It would be a shame to throw away good, real wood paneling which lasts for over a hundred years.

The photo of the room at the top of this page shows beautiful, real oak covered walls, extremely expensive and nearly impossible to find nowadays. I don't know why anyone would want to change it to the cheap junk they put in cookie cutter spec houses that are built by unskilled contractors in assembly line fashion in today's housing industry.

I have real cherry paneling and love it. I did remove a wall to open up the space between the living room and kitchen. I asked my contractor to salvage the paneling. We then reused some of it to face a bar between the two rooms. We salvaged another good piece when we added the doorwall to the patio. This paneling can be salvaged. It can then be used in a different application or saved for reapplication or donated to a group like Habitat for Humanity's REStore so someone else can enjoy it.