If you need any more pics or an up close pic of any certain area of the tree just ask.

at least seal the wound 1st then let it grow out a bit leave it in that pot you dont need to put it in a bonsai pot yet

You don't have to seal it - it will do it all by itself and more cleanly.

Thanks guys and gals for the advice so far. I've encountered the two differing schools of thought of sealing the wound or allowing the tree to do it itself. I don't have any wound sealant so that makes the choice for me until I get some. I did order a concave cutter that should be here later this week or early next week. I will use that on the wounds because I just used a saw to cut them off so far. Also, the largest wound that was left on the tree was already a dead stump of a branch I just cut it off closer to the trunk. As far as the so-called graft union, it actually isn't a graft union. The largest live branch of the tree with the most leaves was right at that section where it gets skinnier. I cut it off because it was growing almost straight towards the ground. Also there were a few tiny buds with leaves below this branch and below the part that looks like a graft union of the same variety as the upper part of the tree. I imagine that branch like it was a sacrifice branch that was allowed to grow too big and therefore made the trunk below that branch wider than above it. That's why I left a few more branches above that point to hopefully restore the taper. Al, I'm curious why you think I should cut the top part of the tree off and start a new leader from one of those branches? Is it because the height of the tree is not in proportion to the width of the trunk? Or is there another reason? Also, does anyone else have any other ideas besides cutting the top part of the tree off? Also? Did any of you have an idea of what variety it might be other than Crimson Queen? Yes I do think it is a good idea to leave it in the pot it is in now until it is more developed so I don't stunt further growth by putting it in a bonsai pot now. Any further advice is greatly appreciated. I'm not sure why the photos are sideways I'm going to try to put them up again. I will keep you updated with what I decide to do with this tree . Please give me any more advice or ideas that you have, especially how I go about choosing branches and developing the tree's canopy.

Thanks,

Matthew

it is Crimson Queen.

I have since figured out that this a weeping JM variety. Is Crimson Queen weeping? Also how does one make a weeping tree into bonsai since all the branches and foliage up curving towards the ground?

Here's a pic of my new concave cutter. How am I supposed to use them?

tapla, I am searching out help in japanese maple bonsai and I noticed you suggested layering off the tree above the graft union. I have purchased two japanese maples ( at an excellent price for practicing ) and after reading this thread I went back and checked the trees for the graft union. In my excitement at the price I did not notice them before, but yes, the union on one of my trees is definitely visible and now that I can see it, it seems to not belong with the tree.

Can I take the top off and root it with hormone, should I scar the bark, dust it with hormone and plant it with the graft union beneath the soil, thus letting roots form from the scion itself, and then remove the rootstock? Or is air layering the way to go?

Assuming all this will be done at the right time of year. Which I have read, for maples is just before bud break.

The other graft union is not so visible, so can I leave it or do you consider that the change in bark structure is detrimental to the beauty of the tree. Or will this union become more visible with time?

Can I take the top off and root it with hormone, That's probably not a good idea. All Japanese maples aren't created equal when it comes to probability that they will root as cuttings. The dissectums are particularly difficult to root. should I scar the bark, dust it with hormone and plant it with the graft union beneath the soil, thus letting roots form from the scion itself, and then remove the rootstock? Or is air layering the way to go?

Al

Thanks Al, I have been reading up on this extensively and the info is definitely conflicting, some forums are down right confrontational when you read them, as growers are passionate about their methods

One thing I learned was, Japanese maples do not readily root from cuttings. Many experts say that they do not live long on their own roots.? Which concerns me as I expect to work on these a very long time. Yet I assume there are many Japanese Maples in Bonsai that have had a long life.

Another well learned lesson was, Bonsai is a study in patience, I am itching to attack these trees now. But I will keep them in dormancy till the spring.

I will study the wire tourniquet method and attempt that. HMMMMM? maybe a few more trees, as the price for these now is impressive so I can afford to chalk my mistakes up to a learning curve.

Thanks for responding

Ursula

There is a lot of conflict on forums because of the difference in knowledge of the participants and the fact that some people believe that because they took the time to voice an opinion, it shouldn't be questioned.

I actually have turned to using zip ties as a tourniquet

I drill the holes above the tourniquet and fill them with a rooting aid, so I end up with the perfectly spaced roots you see on the trident upthread a little.

A couple of months before you're ready to start, look me up again. I'll tell you how to use etiolation to get a jump on the layering by stimulating the plant to form root primordia where you want them.

Al

I will do that

Thanks and have a lovely winter.

Ursula

You too.

Al

tapla-Is now closer to the time to try the etiolation method? my maples are starting to have bud swell.

Hi, Ursula. Yes - it's a good time to start excluding light from the bark where you want roots to occur; basically, that would be immediately above the upper girdling cut of the layer.

Al

Ok thanks, I have been impatiently waiting all winter to start this lol. The art of Bonsai is teaching me to have patience with my entire yard. Slow down, let things evolve, and enjoy the process as much as the end product.

FYI your 5:1:1 mix and gritty mix have substantial improved my indoor plant's health. I am a peony grower and a cut flower farmer so I grow many seedlings for sale as well as for the business and I have never had such healthy little plants.

I'm soo happy you've been able to increase your proficiency to the point you feel like you're getting more from the growing experience. Feeling like I might have had a part in that is what keeps me posting. Thanks for going out of your way to offer the kind assessment!

Al